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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/24/2015 in all areas

  1. even if the head is warped you can 'machine' it yourself get lots of 320 grit water proof sand papers a table on which a 12mm glass sheet is placed a supply of water while you drag the cylinder head on the sand papers until you straighten it out to check the straightness.. you need a straight edge and a feeler gauge.. and service manual for the procedure. :)
    1 point
  2. it looks a pig of a job to change the rack subframe has to be dropped
    1 point
  3. I've no experience in DPF/DPD regeneration in cars but plenty with trucks. What I found was that if you weren't aware of what it means, what it's doing and why then you probably by paying little attention to the processes it was. going through could easily make matters quicly much worse. DPD systems require heat in the exhaust to burn off the soot and normally when it's around time to regenerate it either waits until. it's hot enough or it sprays fuel in the exhaust to rapidly increase the heat until it's hot enough to gon hrough the regeneration cycle. As I said I can only talk about my experience with trucks but a symbol, basically like a puff of smoke lights up green to let you know it's. regenerating. So long as you never turned the engine off during a regen cycle it should be fine but if you do it obviously kills the cycle before it's finished. Do it some more times then you'll find the same symbol lighting up orange or red and flasing. If you see that you have to pull over and do a manual regen cycle which could take 30-45 mins. The more you ignore these things or unaware of them the more likely you'll suddenly find yourself in limp home mode and barely able to get past 30mph. That's the problem, it needs heat but if the truck or cars lots of short journeys it never really gets to burn off the deposits that can quickly block thesystem up :(
    1 point
  4. The rear passenger's offside (driver's side) external door handle was sticking. I removed the interior door panel and sprayed the linkages with WD40 and grease, this resolved the issue. No doubt the handle was sitcking due to lack of use, as most passengers gain access using the other door
    1 point
  5. I changed mine yesterday but it came off quite easy. Problem was actually the bolts which I had to cut off and replace. Rubber hangers can be a pain to get off too but a little wd40 helps the whole process
    1 point
  6. Good work and thanks for sharing, Can this be pinned or put as a guide.
    1 point
  7. Got a call from Toyota complaints department today after writing to them about the white gunk repair kit and how no tyre company would repair the tyre after I had used the kit, even one recommended by my Local Toyota Dealer. They basically told me tuff shi1t and hard luck as a the tyre companies should repair the tyre although it would take them an hour or so to remove the white stuff with a solvent and (Yer Right! I can see a tyre suppliers spending an hour or two) they could then repair the tyre. I lost them on my mobile and called back and spoke with a different person. I told them that I was going on holiday next week and that I would not be able to converse with an Italian or French tyre repair specialist in their own language and convince them to clean the inside of the tyre so I was snookered. This woman I spoke to told me the repair kit was only supposed to be used so that you can drive to a Tyre company and then you should replace the tyre?? I asked why they stopped giving Rav4 drivers a spare any more and she came up with a bull **** answer about getting the car to a lower emission levels. By this time I was fed up, and she confirmed I was getting no compensation. Will I be buying another Rav when I can afford to? I’m not sure, unless they give us another Fu**ing wheel…… :ffs: :ffs: :ffs:
    1 point
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