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Oh yeah i know why...i limited the price lol

All, I just had Abs, Trc Off & Vsc Lights turn on in my Avensis D4D. There are other threads which discuss this, but most talk about expensive replacement parts. The lights came on because both rear break lights stopped working (one was intermittent, the other seems to be blown). This causes the three dash lights to go on. After fixing just one of the lights the dash board lights can be reset. The reset process is to turn the dash on (don't start the engine) then press the brake pedal rapidly 8 times within 5 seconds. This then checks that at least one brake light works and turns the VSC, ABS and TRC lights out. There may be other errors that set these lights off, but this is the one on mine. Certainly better than paying £200+ for a repair job that might not be needed. Regards, Andy. Source: http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/144229-abs-trc-off-vsc-lights-on/

Make sure the following conditions are met: The ignition switch is off.The driver door is open (all other doors closed)The driver door is unlocked.The driver door window is open.Turn the ignition from off to on then off. Close and open the drivers door twice (leave open at end). Turn the ignition switch from off to on then off. Close and open the drivers door twice, then CLOSE and LOCK the drivers door. Turn the ignition swich from off to ON (leave ON for about 1 second) then back to off. Unlock the drivers door. At this point the doors should perform a single lock/unlock operation automatically to confirm that the system has entered ‘adding’ mode. Press the lock and unlock switches on the new remote simultaneously for 1-1.5 seconds. Then, within 3 seconds, press and hold either button for more than 1 second. The doors should perform a single lock/unlock operation to confirm that the new remote has been added to the system. If the lock/unlock operation happens twice (or not at all) then the learning has been unsuccessful. There is a time-limit of approx. 40 seconds between each step.

Or you can say to hell with the fuel consumption, I just love driving this little thing! :-)

thought that most modern cars had systems to cut off fuel pump in advent of an impact of a certain magnitude? I believe that these days they are often integrated with the system that triggers airbags.

A tip passed onto me from n AA man who came to my assistance when I had a flat battery: if attempting to boost start ensure the ignition key is out before connecting the batteries as a power spike can corrupt the chip in the key.

Thanks dont have to change the wings but im going for the smooth look along the side, just meed to order the wings septate as it will be a pricey bill for all the parts. Only thing ill prob get second hand is the facelift rear lights but its all in time. Think ill start getting parts this month. T3x seats and armrest got so they will all be fitted next week and thinking of changing to rear electric windows but need to look into it. Ticked on 346000 miles today so im chuffed so far would it not be cheaper to get all get all used parts, mind you I have not seen that colour in a facelift. 346,000 miles is a achievement, at what miles did you get the car and what have you replaced so far. I tried the facelift rear lights on mine but didn't do the facelift conversion, I liked it for a couple of weeks then went back to the original. here is a link http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/163092-avensis-mk2-t25-facelift-rear-light-cluster/ It would be cheaper but im abit of a freak when it come to parts, yes i dont mind some second hand parts but new metal and bumpers are a must, nearly all the clips on bumpers are broke so might aswell get new ones. And yea your right its very rare to get one in that colour as a face lift but beleive it are not there is a t180 hatch facelift in the same town as i live in, its a taxi tho and has a few scars but going well. My father got the car back in 2006/2007 as it was brought in from england, doncaster, company car. Had 54k my father used it as a taxi till 3 years ago. I got it with 297000. It gets a full service every 8k to 10k depending if i have time to go to toyota, only major thing its had is a clutch again this year. We went for the solid clutch twice now and it dose great on it, bit of a cheap way out of things but ran great on it before the toyota clutch was changed. Engine, turbo, gearbox have never been touched other than timing belt being done. Wheel bearinngs etc etc but nothing major. Car drives great and handles like its on rails but You do feel more to the normal avensis as mine is lowered 30mm. But still a nice comfort drive. Hope i can reach the big million some day as ill never get red of it, thing its just a part of the family and the gf loves driving it and has a soft spot for it. The car dose get drove easy but i do open it up every day are two days just to clean the crap out off it. Still a lively engine, my father says its still a better car than his 07 tr avensis d4d.

I'm not sure remanufactured would that be esperious if it had off been me I would have took my old turbo and got it done up means everything inside seals turbine balanced a good turbo specialist knows what needs replaced, then when u get your old turbo back it's like new with a warranty on internal parts I'm not sure in England prices of reconditioning your old turbo. But esperious parts are dirt tbh they either never fit right are need adapted if you have your old genuine one look for a specialist get it done up .. as for sump cleaning a good mechanic will do that some say no as they want a car in and out as quick as possible when I service a car I take pleasure and time look after the customer really it's what you pay for a service if he removed your oil feed pipe sounds like injectors so maybe cleaned sump and pipes not sure though

I had a problem before with turbo boost no faults logged but down in power so it was mechanical first thing to rule out everything was injector seals as I had huge blow by. 4th injector seal knackered got new ones I recommend not to use steal ones are copper ones either as they never seal right buy from Toyota they sell the alloy ones job done no more blow bye but still loose of power . Next was blocked cat lossened exhaust to let gases out guess what still no power scratching my head now opened up the egr top cap drove it still the same no power again thinking so bypassed the intercooler still the same down on power I had a fair idea turbo problems but struggled on testing things as turbo was no play in shaft and turbine felt solid and tight so I tryed the suction valves and still no power no engine management lights on what is going on I thought scratching a hole in my brain now pump pressure good injectors reading good compression good map sensor good in the end took turbo off should have at the start done that but needed to eliminate other things befour the dreaded bill ££££ turbo out now been nosey wanted to see if any veins broke inside guess what I found one off the allum key nuts had come loose preventing the veins to open to get boost right seams these turbos lossen the nuts inside the turbo housing holding the veins shut so no boost at all screwed them back and used high temp loc so they won't undo again cleaned turbo put back in car rebuild everything back on changed oil and filters cleaned gauge in sump and car is a rocket now bear in mind now I had no smoke from exhaust to indicate issues just down in power so this might help the other head scratchers as well And your welcome anytime

Not on the gen3. There is on the T-Spirit: Put vehicle in Ready or Acc mode (you may press EV to prevent the engine starting and wasting fuel if in Ready mode) Hold down the "INFO-TEL" button on the NAV Turn the headlamps on and off 4 times. The diagnostic screen appears on the NAV. On the first screen, press; "Function check/Setting" then on the second: "Vehicle signal" Battery voltage is the first on the list on the third screen that appears. This shows the voltage under load in Ready or ACC mode if you switch various things on/off you can see the voltage vary. With no load when the battery had rested for a while mine showed 14.2v in ready mode Switching the headlamps on it dropped to 10.4v, which shows how weak the battery capacity is. 10.4v would struggle to turn a starter motor on a conventional car. Further to this, checking the voltage in Ready mode is the charging voltage, i.e. the HV battery is charging the 12v, checking in ACC mode is the battery voltage with no charge going in and with whatever accesories are on. Apparently 11-12v is ok in ACC mode and 14.x in ready mode with no other loads.

Gen 3 - TA60. The last of the real Celicas. :P Yves.