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Hi all, I've bought a 62 plate Auris HSD with only 15k on the clock £9500. Absolute bargain and I love it. Thanks for all your comments it really helped, I'm staying away from diesel from now on, dirty horrible things that they are :)

Today I went to my mates garage, and had the rear brakes replaced on my Mk3 Tourer 2009. First the EPB was left in the off position and the car switched off. The pads, caliper bracket and discs were removed. then the pistons were wound back using left and right handed wind back tools, new discs and pads installed. Now the mechanic pumps the brakes, then started the car and engaged the EPB. The park brake light came on as usual then flashed. The EBP was released, and the mechanic press the brake pedal and then press the EBP button again. The park brake light flashed again, so the mechanic switched off the engine. He switched it on and released the EPB. He pumped the brakes, then applied the EPB and it came on as normal. No electronic resetting tools or diagnostics needed. I had my Launch diagnostic tool which can reset the EPB, but did not use it. I had Apec brakes fitted, same as the fronts fitted a couple of weeks ago. Hope this answers a few queries regarding changing rear brakes without affecting the EBP on early manual T27s.

Have a look at the following extensive thread - Basically Toyota, under a goodwill arrangement, extended cover on these engines for 7 years/111,846 miles, whichever occurred first. A 2008 model, being over 7 years old, is outside the extended cover. As far as we understand, Toyota is applying the stated limits rigidly. Has the dealer said how much he would buy the car back for? Also have a look at the new Consumer Rights Act -

Well done there. Great car, so relaxing. Don''t think about it get one thats what I say ( My keyboards a bit strange) Like Tonino says.You can drive them all day and not get tired. Mines a taxi and its fabulous, meanwhile the others in town are all driving dirty diesels and wont listen to me. Crazy. Most of all though, my customers love it and I get requests for it, add in the fact that ( and I keep this up to date on here) its still in the low 60s mpg even in this weather, is very comfortable and effortless to drive, its a no brainer for anyone wanting another car. Everyone should have one.

Have a read of this thread...

Moved out of the Verso S club (wrong model) to the Corolla club

If you go for an Auris Hybrid all is good, I think a year old one are great deal as you said, but If you thinking of diesel they are horribly noisy and unrefined, better get a VW. Good luck

Regarding the service interval, I have a 2012 2.2 estate and the service book that it came with it also stated 12,500mls/ 1 year between serving, however the local Toyota dealer and reconfirmed by Toyota GB said it is 10,000/ 1 year. So I'm assuming that it changed around about 2012 and I get it serviced every every 10,000mls, to avoid warranty issues. The service warning interval, on the car is set for 10,000mls.

OK follow up to my problem which is now fixed (I hope) finding any information on Toyota's is a pain I have to say any mention of lack of heat seems to flag head gasket failure as the cause, the car uses/looses no coolant so it came down to rolling up my sleeves and a bit of exploration. 1st following Duggerz tip my thoughts were "it cant be that simple" well sadly it wasn't, and as it turned out there was no pollen filter at all fitted ??? There is now though. So one possible cause out of the way. While in there I could see the heater matrix feeder pipes and both were hot so it must be the air passing over the matrix (or lack of). I then played hunt the servo drive that controls the heat. Found it after digging under the drivers side dash the servo could be felt working when I rotated the heat control so time for tea and head scratching. Eventually I took off the servo to see if I could see any more or get a clearer view what was happening. The problem was the operating arm that moves the flap, the molded pin on the arm was missing changing the flap looks like a major dash dismantling job but moving the flap by hand proved that this was the issue. Time for more tea and head scratching, eventually I used my Dremel to drill the arm tapped a thread and fitted a grub screw to act as the pin. Before fitting the grub screw I dipped one end in Gorilla glue screwed it in and left it to set, All the moving bits I gave a squirt with Lithium Spray grease and made sure it moved easily, put the servo back and tried it. All working again so put it all back together. 3 days now and still working so fingers crossed

I've recently asked the same question and got good answers on this forum. I've just bought an 85k 05 car in otherwise great condition - decent Bridgestones all round, expensive wipers, lots of indicators that the car has been cherished. I reckon if the previous owner knew it was an oil burner, they wouldn't have spent all this 'unnecessary' extra money on it. I've no idea if it was a new short block one but I've done 300 miles and the oil level on the dipstick hasn't moved, I'm using V power in it for the time being as I want to do my usual 1 tank of v power then 2 tanks of regular routine. I guess the scientific way to tell would be to get engine block numbers etc, or just use your intuition. If the worst it does is burn a bit of oil, you'll still see a lot of life in it yet and have a car which is lovely too.

Hi Konrad I have now changed the rear pads on both my son's 2009 tourer and my own 2011 tourer with no problem or reset required.