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I'm now on my second Yaris hybrid, the first a 62 plate had it for 2 years and then got the 64 plate that I still have. The first one was a great car apart from creaky suspension. My current Yaris has problems. Once it's full warmed up after driving for about an hour, when accelerating with the petrol engine running all is fine until I take my foot of the accelerator. The car responds normally (it doesn't carry on accelerating) but the engine will rev up before going back to EV and sometimes the engine stay running sometimes at high revs. This when the car is warm with plenty charge in the battery. It will also do this with the climate control fully turned off. The mpg has also dropped compared to last winter by nearly 10mpg It first started this before it's 30,000 mile service. I did mention it when it was booked it, nothing showed up when connected to computer or on the Hybrid health check. Now it's doing this a lot more, it's just had it's 40,000 mile service but again nothing showed up and wouldn't do it when road tested. I shouldn't have booked it first thing in the morning I should have drove it first until it started doing this. I also now have the same creaky suspension noise that I had on my last Yaris at similar mileage. The last one Toyota replaced the antiroll bar bushes and a front suspension strut but didn't solve the problem and it was after this I brought my second Yaris. It doesn't make the noise when it's wet which it was when it went for it's service and there is nothing obvious wrong with the suspension. It is booked in to be looked at again but I get the feeling the Toyota dealer I use hasn't come across this problem before and every time its booked in I'm losing money, because I can't use my car as it's used for my driving school, I do like the car and intend to keep it until October 2017, but with these two issues it's not setting a good image for my business nor what I expected from a Toyota. If anyone has any ideas how to solve these issues I would be grateful. Thanks Martin

The "glide" part is most useful if you're approaching a roundabout or road junction, or going downhill. This will make more sense when you get the vehicle, but in normal driving, when you lift all the way off the accelerator, the power needle drops slightly into the blue area (regenerative braking). This happens whether you're braking or not, as the car has a very low internal resistance, so it emulates drivetrain drag by using a small amount of regenerative braking. Between the blue and green region is the white idle line. If you very very lightly press the accelerator so the power needle is on the white line, the car will roll on for a very long time, but using little to no power. Depending on terrain and road conditions, I've found the car is running best (seemingly least power to maintain speed) at: 22 MPH (battery power only) 30-40 MPH (battery only, but depends on terrain, especially as you reach 40 MPH) 43 MPH (using ICE) 53-60 MPH (depends on terrain, but on level ground, 53 MPH works well) Depending on terrain and traffic, it can be best to accelerate enough that the ICE starts to assist acceleration, then feather the accelerator to trigger EV mode. It takes some time to figure out how to get the best out of it, but you'll get there! If you're buying new, don't expect it to give the best figures for several thousand miles. My car was quite slow and needed gentle handling in the beginning. Observe the running-in instructions, as it will determine the longevity of the vehicle in the long run. For the first 1000 miles I did not drive faster than 50 MPH on A roads, and 60 MPH on dual carridgeways or motorways (I went back to 50 MPH when able). When starting a journey, the car will seem very slow. Don't push it hard. After about 10-15 minutes of driving it will feel a bit "looser". My car has 10000 miles on it now, and I'm still observing that it is slower when cold (much more noticeable than with other vehicles I've owned). It is not a problem! For my specific vehicle, I don't think I will see best MPG for another 10000 miles. It is much freer than when it was first purchased, but I'm seeing improvements all the time. I have also observed that the car is totally incapable of best MPG until about ***10 minutes*** after starting driving. This appears to be a time-based restriction in the ECU. After this time, I see the best economy. It is related to engine warm-up. If you do get one, I'm sure you will love it! I'm never going back to a conventional car!

Cheers Mick After a bit of searching I found the thread I made at the time:

Then I shall stop trying to rip the bulb out of the plastic! Thanks very much, perfect reply. :)

The bulb is an HIR2 bulb, which is single filament, but supplies both high and low beam (high beam is produced by an actuator moving the bulb or the reflector). The 'plastic bit' is an integral part of the bulb, so not removable. See https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hir2+bulb

In addition to .....

Reminds me of a conversation my Dad was having with my sister when she was learning to drive. I think she had asked him for a car and he refused, saying she wouldn't know how to look after a car. She said she did, so he asked her "Alright so how do you change a tyre?". Her response: "Call the RAC". Thing is, and I'm putting my hatred of Vauxhalls aside, your neighbour won't blame his inadequate basic maintenance for the car breaking down. He'll blame the quality of the car or manufacturer. They will be the ones who buy brand new cars because they won't need anything doing, and will drive them in to the ground mechanically and hand it back after 3 years. I got conned like this I think with my Peugeot 3008 that I bought second hand from the main Peugeot dealer. It was 4 years old, needed a new clutch and flywheel at 60,000 miles and the turbo is about to go kaput. What have I done about it? It's sat on my driveway waiting for October to come for me to throw it back to Peugeot (it's on finance). In the mean time, I paid a friend of my mother-in-law-to-be £250 for her 1998 Corolla which is fine aside from a small gearbox leak and shoddy paintwork. But it suits me, and will help me save up towards buying a Toyota Land Cruiser. Personally I have never seen anyone check their car for oil or tyre pressures. My sister hasn't on her Yaris. But again, it's a finance car and it'll be handed back in a month or two. I may forget about the tyres, but I do check them before I get in the car to make sure they're not flat. But I think a lot of drivers and car owners think the cars are so new and modern they don't need maintenance, they should just work.

This is taken from my iPhone, the sound quality isn't that good but with the volume turned up you can hear the engine staying on. The car should be fully warmed up, at the point of recording I've driven 30 miles mostly on national speed limit dual carriage ways. The record is then taken mostly on 30 mph roads and a short 20 mph. The EV mode button wouldn't work despite doing less than 30 mph with plenty of charge in the battery and the EV light on, on the dashboard. My son was meant to record the EV light but didn't manage to catch the light on the camera. IMG_0940.m4v

Thanks for your reply, I have read through it and it makes sense in how my car used to run but.... After using the car for 2 hours doing 35 miles then driving at speed on a dual carriage way the car must be fully warmed up, then driving at no more than 30mph with the battery 3/4 charge I wouldn't expect the engine to continue running at around 3/4 rpm for half a mile while driving down hill. While the display on the radio shows that the engine isn't sending power to the wheels or charging the battery. My EV mode button doesn't work at all once it warmed up it used to work I used to use it all the time when driving home, I didn't see the point in leaving plenty charge in the battery if come the next morning the engine was going to run to warm the car up, it won't let me do this anymore. EV mode does work when first switched on, this is the only time it works. This morning it only managed 42 mpg, mostly 30 mph roads in light traffic (5c at start 8c at end of lesson) The maximum I've had out of this car was 72mpg back in the summer and at the start of this winter the lowest before it started having this problem was 58mpg. The lowest in my old Yaris was 56mpg during winter. There is defiantly something wrong, this is my second Yaris Hybrid I've driven 85,000 mile between them, it's not running like it used to.

My Yaris and the one before both did the rough running mis-firing just after switching on when cold. I believe it was caused by moving the car off the drive the engine would kick in and then it was switched off, then the next time it was turned on it would do the rough running. I always now use the EV mode if I'm just moving the car off the drive so I can get my other car out. I was thinking about videoing it and taking it to my local dealer, it's very frustrating when you take it to the dealer and drive round with one of their mechanics and the car decides to behave itself. When I take my foot off the accelerator, when it revs up it sounds the same as the sudden revving up you get in manual car going up hill with the clutch slipping. Today I've done a 2 hour driving lesson 35 miles, when driving home I've done about 2 miles on a dual carriage way and then on to a 30 mile road. After coming off a roundabout accelerated back up to 30 mph, the car now has 3/4 charge in the battery when I've took my foot of the accelerator expecting it to go on electric motor (slightly downhill road) the engine first revs up and then drops a little but stays at half to 3/4 rpm for about half a mile. The display on the radio shows it running on electric only while I can hear the engine, there are no purple lines from the engine to the wheels or electric motor, but at the same time the EV light hasn't come on, on the dashboard. The other thing when it's doing this, is when the engine has final stopped and the EV light has come on, when I press the EV mode button it doesn't work at all it just beeps. It will only work first thing when the car is first switch on. I was thinking is it possible the throttle is sticking open? It seems the ECU is responding to the accelerator because it's not affecting the speed of the car and the display on the radio is responding along with the accelerator the purple lines stop as soon as my foot comes off. Also when the engine stays on if I push the accelerator and release it straight away this sometimes stops the engine. Maybe it's only doing this once it's warmed up and driven for a while because it's expanding with heat and maybe at this point the throttle isn't closing completely and that this could be one of conditions for the EV mode to work. But surely if this was the case wouldn't the ECU have realised there is a problem and recorded a fault? I did have problems with this car when I first had it (wondering whether it's linked?) once warmed up (again) it would go click click click quite loud when switching back and to electric the Toyota mechanics at the local dealer said it wasn't right and wanted to strip the transmission down. It was booked it last easter when I was on holiday so they could have the car for a week. But Toyota UK wouldn't authorise the repair and said they wanted one of their engineers to look at it. The funny thing is when I picked the car up having not had any work done to it, it hasn't done this since. I will get video of it tomorrow.