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Without doubt have the rear wheels balanced. Really cannot understand any garage not saying the rears should be balance as well given your problem. Checking for roundness,....hmm, more usual to check for bulges on the sidewall which can affect the balance and fail the mot; also checking for even tread wear to suggest the alignments are correct. Also a tyre 5 years old will likely be slightly out of balance due to normal wear. Never rely on just one place balancing your tyres, its always down to the machine and operator as to how good the balance is and also what selection of weights they have. You can prove things yourself, to a degree, by swapping the fronts to the back and seeing if you get more or less steering judder at 60ish. Even with the fronts in perfect balance, the rears being out can cause both seat and steering vibration. If original, your rear shocks could be totally worn out and cause a lot of vibration, though again your garage should have bounced tested them, as can you.

Since the 1980's tyres have had a date stamp added to the side walls so that you can see how old they are. During the 80's it was a 3 digit code giving the week number and year of manufacture. So 218 would equal week 21 in 1988, when we got to the 90's to differentiate they added a triangle to the 3 digits, so 218 (followed by a triangle) would represent week 21 in 1998. It became easier to remember from the year 2000 when a four digit code was used, so 2108 would represent week 21 in 2008. The service life of a tyre is usually measured by the amount of tread remaining; in the UK the legal limit is 1.6mm over ¾ of the tread all around the circumference. But we should also be looking at the date code as oxidisation is also a serious concern, and since tyres are made of rubber they degrade with age. Most consumers in the UK do not know that the date code exists, a survey in 2006 showed that only 4% of drivers realised that tyres becomes more dangerous as they age. A large body of scientific evidence supports, that most tyres should be replaced six years from the date they were manufactured. This six year expiration date begins from the day the tyre was made, not from the day it was sold and fitted to a vehicle. Tyres age dangerously because a chemical process commonly referred to as oxidisation occurs, this simply means that a tyres components are exposed to oxygen, the oxygen particles cause the flexible components of the tyre to harden and become brittle. Over time, the tyre will fall apart under normal stress, just like an old rubber band. Because this process occurs naturally, it doesn't matter if a tyre is being used, stored as a spare, or waiting on a shelf in a tyre depot, the breakdown process has started from day one. How old is too old? This is a subject of much debate within the tyre industry and no tyre expert can tell exactly how long a tyre will last. The results of experience of many tyre manufacturing companies including Bridgestone, warrant their tyres for 5 years from date of manufacture. Based on these understandings many vehicle manufacturers are now advising their customers to replace their tyres after 6 years, regardless of tread depth remaining.

Sounds like age is catching up to you ha ha. The rear tyres sound like they are past their best, I’m sure that tyres have a shelf life and as far as I know that tyres are stamped with a date of manufacture and after a certain time the rubber starts to degrade, the side walls could have weak spots for example or flat spots in the tread. Not a tyre expert by any means but best to start with the cheapest/obvious options first.

Manufacturers had to comply with improved emissions standards as they were introduced, so the fact that the T25 was originally launched in 2003 won't matter. A 2008 registered car would have had to comply with Euro 4. If you want to check your particular registration however you can do it here: https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/emissions-surcharge/compliance-checker Edit: Sorry I originally posted the wrong link. Now amended.

This video is for a Prius but it worked for me. It does take a little force.... Hope this helps, Jez

I think the overall point is that the thread is veering off point..the entire purpose of this thread was to compare the pros/cons of the auris 1.2t and 1.8hsd. Frosty is right that you can't deliver a very fair review of the auris hsd based on a bad experience of driving yaris hsd, but that's isn't what eygo was doing, eygo was just giving some feedback on the yaris to anthonypoli who indicated an intention to buy a yaris. Everyone actually appears to be arguing about different things. If anyone reading is interested to know however, having driven all kinds of combinations of yaris and auris, the auris hsd is more refined in many ways than the yaris hsd, and in much the same way, the auris 1.2t is more refined than the 1.3 yaris. I think that is to be expected though and that is where the point about market sector comes in. Auris design is more refined than yaris design focus zetec is more refined than fiesta zetec astra sri is more refined than corsa sri

As konrad says clean and check all before letting Toyota suggest parts as they like all dealership in house services will keep throwing new parts until they fix it..also do the pcv including hose to throttle. pull battery term off for a while too.