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I just had my 40.000 miles service, and I had told the shop (Toyota dealer) to replace the CVT gearbox oil. I very happy with the result, I can feel some difference, and I'm very happy that I got a fixed price on the job. It took forever, they got the car 7.30 and I could leave again 14.00 (I waited in the shop for the car to finish) The last few months, I had started to notice some very light jerking when accelerating smoothly. A strange feeling going through to pedals and steering wheel, almost like the road was a bit bumpy. Just a very light feeling, but enough to be alert, when it happens every time. I could'nt see any strange movement in the revcounter or speedo, so it was'nt the belt slipping (Thank God). After my oil change, it has all gone. I think that the oils lubricating properties has been worn out. The result has been, that the CVT belt couldnt move 100% smoothly between the pulleys, without making very tiny jerks. Quite disturbing, since Toyota claims that the gearbox is sealed for life, and never requires maintenance. So my advice to all of you the old school CVT's: Get a oil change. If I can experience small jerks with only 40.000 miles on the clock, I would say that it could happen to any of you. I'm a very gentle driver, I don't tow caravans, I don't drive agressively, just normal daily driving, with a holiday through Germany twice a year.

Bear in mind that the noise rating from the tyre labelling system, is a measurement of external noise (measured from outside the vehicle) and may not relate well to perceived noise inside the vehicle. So to get tyres that seem quieter inside a vehicle would probably be more of a judgement call and will vary from model to model depending how well noise, vibration and harshness is suppressed.

Thanks for your help Agent Orange and fordulike. I can now get this sorted without going to a Toyota dealer

Pollen filter is behind the glovebox. I can't remember if it's the T25 or T27 Avensis which has the damper screwed to it - (if yours has it then unscrew it) then squeeze the sides of the glovebox together and lower it down. Unclip the filter housing and slide the filter out. It's an easy job.

Think this might be the main plastic part you're after: Peugeot 107 / citreon c1 /Toyota aygo left side /passagers door handle Then it's just a case of finding a trim cover. Think eBay has a few on there too.

Hi Philip and welcome to the board. That looks like the nearside door-pull to me...It comes in two parts, the grey backing plate that you screw to the door and a push-on silver fascia plate to cover the screw and make it nice and tidy. There is no mechanism as it is just a door pull/handle. I hope that helps.

Hi Johan, well done for working your way through the problem, I am guessing the diode pack has gone in the alternator unit. I am assusimg you have a battery charger, may I suggest you charge up the battery, it will take a full good 2 days to fully charge it. After this time and the battery charger disconnected leave the battery to stand for a few hours and check the voltage with your multimeter to see how many volts are in the battery, you are looking for 12 volts plus. Mike.

It was a tough choice between doing some early Christmas shopping, or fitting some Dynamat to the front doors of the Auris. I know,…. we’ve all been there…. After removing the door cards, I noticed that water had breached the mastic seal, and, instead of running down to the intended exit hole (back into the door void), had run down onto the door speaker. This in turn runs around the speaker mounting, and leaves the door card via the foam seal, that you can just about feel when the door is assembled. The mastic, when applied at the factory, has stuck to the steel successfully, and to the plastic membrane as well, but these have sagged at some time afterwards, leaving a hole that water can get through. Both front doors had suffered this failure! After doing what I originally wanted to do, I just closed up the failed seal with my fingers, it gave the impression of having stuck itself together; it is extremely tacky. If you suspect a water leak into the passenger compartment, might be worth checking under the front door speakers. (I didn't know there was any leak on our car). In the picture, the failed seal is at the top arrow, it collects on the speaker (next arrow), then leaves the door at about the point of the lowest arrow. The mastic looks a bit rushed, doesn't it? I bet this doesn't happen on Japanese-made Toyotas. <sigh>

Yesterday I removed the rear door cards. The plastic membrane that is there to keep water out of the car was factory-fitted in an even more casual way than the front doors' were. Really sloppy. There were big gaps in the butyl /plastic join that you could probably get three fingers into. Amazingly, there was no evidence of water leaks or damage. But these gaps might leak if the car was no longer parked on level ground. The door card is very easy to remove, just the same as the front, but 1 'new' screw is behind the upholstered armrest (which pulls straight up to remove). HTH

Whoah! good catch mate, I wasn't as lucky as you, when I had water on the floor of the Carina, it turned out to be a rusty hole near the base of the windscreen. I had to have the windscreen taken out and then welded a new bit in and had the screen put back again, cost me a fortune