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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    A few (not particularly good ) Piccies. Maybe I'll have another go!
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    TFP = Toyota Fixed Price Mate those discs and pads will be made from butter and will last 5 minutes if you are lucky Get something decent, if not genuine then something like Ferodo, at least you will stop when you put your foot on the brake Kingo
  4. 1 point
    Hi, the screw out action is to keep the hand brake adjustment. It's a bit fiddly, but use a 'G' clamp to keep the squeeze on and turn the piston with a pair of 'Swan (or Goose) neck' Pliers. Don't forget to release the hand brake first. Good luck.
  5. 1 point
    New A/C pipe now fitted. A small pin hole was the problem with the old pipe. I did have too cut the old pipe to remove it. Fitting the new pipe was fiddley to fit but manageable. The only problem was the large bore wiring loom from the bulkhead. The new pipe is supposed to go under the loom, I fitted the pipe in front of the loom which does put a little resistance on the pipe. There is insulation on the pipe which will minimise any friction. Has increased my confidence to tackle more issues on the car. Brake pipe corrosion next.
  6. 1 point
    Hi, Have you removed the bracket from the hub ? usually just two bolts, though a good dose of penny fluid overnight will help. Once off then you could place it so the pins are vertical , then again use some penny fluid to trickle down and leave overnight or soak in a bath of some fluid etc. Using heat might also help, but be aware one of the pins may have a rubber end. Cannot see it being a generic part or available from any aftermarket supplier, Mr.T only if they still have them, or a scrappers. As long as the bore of the pin holes cleans up without any bad wear or scratches it should be ok.. For new pins try https://brakeparts.co.uk/
  7. 1 point
    Well, I finally managed to separate the A/C pipe as shown in the photograph. A very kind young man at Toyota assured me that no specialized tools were needed. The key is to break the seal. I did by using 2 small pairs of adjustable grips which my son suggested I use. They need to be small as the space is very restricted. Care must be taken not to fracture the pipes so I used some insulation foam tubing the sort to insulate domestic water pipe. I put this around the A/C pipe and then used the grips over the foam tubing. Supporting either side of the joint, just move the grips to move the seal. After this the joint began to seperate. Care must be taken as there is a smaller A/C pipe in very close proximity. No other tools are needed. Will try to remove the A/C pipe in its entirety as this will hopefully guide me to replace the new A/C pipe tomorrow.
  8. 1 point
    and free valets! I'd always held Volvo in high esteem until I finally got one in 1997. It was delivered with 3 glaring faults, one of which could have left me with no brakes if the ABS had kicked in! It visited the dealer at least 3 times a month for the first 18 months or so. The saving grace was a brilliant dealer, who would bring a courtesy car to my house after 8pm when I got home from work, swap over, and swap back when fixed, bringing my car back cleaned inside and out. I never paid for a wash at all during that time!
  9. 1 point
    Difficulty: Easy-ish Time: About 1 hour Tools: Two 17mm spanners - ring and open. Long spanners may help. As the chart below shows, it's quite normal for a shock absorber to have traces of oil around the top. However leaks like level 3 to 1 mean the shock absorber (SA) needs replacing. Probably a good idea to replace in pairs. As always, apply hand-brake, chock the opposite front wheel and without the vehicle raised, slightly slacken off the road wheel nuts. Jack the vehicle up and place on an axle stand: (note to self - it's a good idea to secure the stand with the split pin on the chain!) 2009 and beyond models are fitted with superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmos to the rear suspension arms on each side. It makes things a bit easier, by removing this. Easily done with a 10mm socket. Support the suspension arm with the jack and remove the road wheel. Place a piece of wood between the jack head and the suspension arm, to prevent damage to the arm: (No the drive doesn't slope, must have had too much vino, picture is on the tilt). The vehicle should feel firmly supported now. Don't gamble with this - it's not worth it. The shock absorber is attached top and bottom with bolts and nuts. Shown here with nuts and bolts partly and fully removed. The bottom bolt is not too bad to access, the top is the worst, which is where you may need the open ended spanner. Obviously hold the bolt head with one spanner, while releasing the nut with the other. The bottom bolt attaches through a carrier, which in turn is attached to the wheel "hub" assembly. The bottom SA bolt will not come out unless this carrier is removed. The suspension arm is in the way and prevents the bolt coming fully out. If the bolt was inserted the opposite way around, there would be no problem and the bolt would come out, without removing the carrier. I suspect it is done like this so that if the bolt should come loose, it cannot drop out completely. Look underneath the "hub" and you will see two bolts: These attach the carrier to the "hub". Although I couldn't see how there could possibly be any relative movement, it's not a bad idea to place match marks before removing anything suspension related. It can save a whole heap of re-alignment later. In fact, the carrier doesn't have to be removed, slacking the bolts off a little and lowering the carrier, as shown, is enough to remove the bottom SA bolt. Once you have the top and bottom SA bolts out, the SA itself should come out easily: At time of writing part number is 48531-42240. Same part is used for both sides (no surprise really). Always check that the part number hasn't been updated. When refitting, the piece of metal welded to the lower part of the SA, goes towards the front of the vehicle. Some out of focus, installed SA pictures: Replace the top and bottom SA bolts and nuts. Torque up the SA carrier bolts to 80lbft. The top and bottom SA bolts are also 80 lbft. The bottom SA bolt is easy, but the top one is difficult to get a torque wrench to (At least with my kit), so I used "mechanicing judgement" on that one. Replace the road wheel and the superdooperGoFasterAerodynamicFuelSaverGizmo. Lower the vehicle. Road wheel nuts are 76 lbft. If you, can bounce the suspension a bit. Toyota procedure calls for the rear suspension alignment to be checked at this point. Unless there is other suspension damage repair, or tyres are scrubbing, I don't see that it is necessary. It's quite an involved process too. So, there you are. Next time the spotty "youf" in Kwikfit or wherever, tells you your shocks need replacing, thank him kindly for the advise, then check yourself and if necessary, replace them yourself.
  10. 1 point
    Difficulty - Medium Time - about 40 minutes per side. Tools required - After lifting and securing the vehicle you need a 14mm and 17mm spanner, large screwdriver, g clamp, Coppaslip or similar copper based grease. The very best standard road going pads (and more than a match for most web available "performance" pads) are genuine Toyota which are available at a discounted price from Lindop Bros. Pm Parts_King for details. Introduction The front caliper is of the reaction type and is very simple to work on. When the brake is pressed, the piston pushes the inner pad into contact with the disc. When the inner pad has contacted the disc an equal and opposite force pushes the caliper (which is free to slide on guide pins) backwards and this in turn is connected to the outer pad via the caliper bridge. The outer pad is then brought into contact with the disc under equal pressure and the brake is applied. There are no return springs to release the brake. Only deformation of the piston seals and the action of the disc clearing the pads allows the brake to release. In a similar way there is no adjustment of the brake as the wear is compensated for by the piston travel and the caliper sliding on the guide pins. As the pads wear, fluid is displaced from the master cylinder reservoir and there is enough capacity of fluid to cater for fully worn front and rear pads. When new pads are fitted, the fluid is pushed back into the reservoir and for this reason the fluid should not be topped up between brake pad changes unless the fluid drops below the "MIN" mark or the warning light indicates that a leak has occurred and this case the fault should be investigated immediately. The only time the fluid should be topped up is at the two year service interval when it should be changed. Specifications Minimum pad thickness - 1.0mm Minimum disc thickness - 23mm Note; There will almost always be a lip of rust around the outer diameter of the disc and the greatest wear will always be on the wear path around 15mm from the outer edge of the disc. This is because there is a higher rotational speed at the outside diameter and also there is some "off brake" contact as the hub bearing allows some swaying movement of the disc when cornering. Brake Fluid - SAE J1703 DOT3 Note; TGB are currently supplying DOT 5.1 which can be mixed. Procedure You are responsible for making sure the car is safe. For best results use a trolley jack and axle stands. If you do use the supplied jack, remember that it is only a very temporary device for changing a wheel and under no circumstances should you risk putting any part of your body under the vehicle. You can make things a little easier by turning the lock as I have done in these photos. The steering should only be turned when the vehicle is on an axle stand and turning the wheel while using the supplied jack will possibly result in the vehicle falling to the ground - don't risk it! To change only the pads, undo the bottom retaining bolt with a 14mm spanner. If the back nut turns just use a 17mm spanner to hold it; Use a screwdriver to prize the caliper outwards; .......and swivel it upwards; If you are only changing the pads use the g clamp at this stage to carefully push the piston back into the caliper; If somebody has topped up the brake fluid it will be pushed out of the top of the reservoir. Either syphon some fluid out, collect as much as you can with rags or undo the bleed nipple on the caliper and allow the fluid to be displaced. If you do the latter, follow the instructions for bleeding the brake. Easiest way for future reference is do not top up between fluid changes as indicated above! Note the position of the pads and shims. They are a slightly different shape to each other and the kit comes with 2 pairs of different shaped pads. If you get them mixed up, look at the back of the old pads and you will see the shape of the piston on the inner pad - they can't really go in wrong. Use the screwdriver to ease them out of the carrier. Clean the shims and place them onto the new pads with the arrows pointing in the direction of rotation. You can apply a thin film of coppaslip between each of the contact areas as this will act as a squeal dampener. Just to clarify, the owner supplied these pads and I would always recommend the genuine Toyota ones. There is no need to apply anything to the genuine Toyota pads as they will be silent in operation; Clean the stainless steel locating carriers. These easily come out but to avoid being confused about where they go, keep them to their relative locations, if necessary doing them one at a time. This is a first class idea which allows the pads to slide on a low friction stainless steel abutment rather than directly in the cast iron carrier which often corrodes and can cause the pads to stick and wear unevenly. Clean them as best you can - a bit of wire wool works grand; If you are only doing the pads, place them into the caliper. One has a bent piece of metal which acts as a wear indicator by squealing when wear allows the pad to contact the disc; This goes at the inside and at the top; Here is an exploded view of the whole assembly; Drop the caliper back down, pushing the guide pins back to allow alignment and fit the bottom bolt - 26Nm (20ft/lbs). Important; press the brake pedal until it goes hard as this pushes the piston/pads out to the disc. Don't wait until you move the car as when the pedal goes to the floor you will panic and make a mess of the seat! If you do forget - don't forget you have a hand brake!!! Refit the wheel and lower the car - wheel nut torque - 103 Nm (76 ft/lbs) See part 2 to change the discs.



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