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I'd say wheels need to be balanced. That's why they put those tiny wheel weights on them, maybe some fell off.

Thank you for responding.I found the other post and its a handy site! I did find some differences between the 3zzfe and the 1zzfe manifolds. The pipes sit in a different way and there is no hole for the sensor in the exhaust. Now i am going to look if a 4-2-1 header is going to fit and what the costs are.

Could also be warped/bulged tyre.

May i recomend using the plate from the worn FOB, and just resoldering the switches from new one to old one? Should be an easy job, and can be done on the cheap if you dont have the tools. From what i understood the problem is dip switched, and/or fob casing, both of which are replaceable.

Hi Catlover, I heard that too but as an engineer, I questioned it. When the wheel and nut are brand new and freshly machined with lovely smooth surfaces, the coefficient of friction between the two surfaces will be lower. After a while, when the nut and the wheel have got dirty and corroded that coefficient of friction will be increased. This eventually leads to studs shearing off since the force required to undo the nuts will be greater than the force which was originally required to do them up since corrosion between the parts has developed. So what if I stop the corrosion between the parts from developing? Then the force required to undo the parts should be far closer to the force required to do them up and the studs do not shear off because they are working within their design parameters. Try it! Clean up a nut, taper and a stud and copper slip them, torque them up and then do the same with another stud, taper and nut clean them up but dont copper slip them. Run them all through the winter , in the spring time compare the torque required to undo them both. The reasoning behind my questioning the idea of having to increase the torque lies in experience with morse tapers on drill bits in machine shops. The morse taper is used to hold and drive drills in machine tools, they mostly operate in extremely oily environments and yet only ever slip when the taper is very severely damaged. As the taper engages , it displaces anything which would impede contact with its mating socket. The taper on the wheel nut and the wheel does not self grip like a morse taper does but the use of torque on the nut to displace any lubricant whilst at the same time building building a water and grit tight seal where the taper isn't engaged. In the case of the wheel application, the taper is there to assist with centralising the stud and nut within the hole in the wheel but the displacement of lubricant is still a characteristic.

Hi Gerg, Thanks for your comment! I actually got this fixed today, and as you say it was the break fluid, that just went below the (Low) marker. So everything is fixed now! 🙂

Good result 😄 We should all remember this (a reboot) as first possible solution!

Update: I work with IT and I thought "What's the standard solution for 90 % of all IT problems?" The answer is a reboot, so I decided to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Worked like a charm! I no longer have to fiddle with the key in the dark 😁 Thanks to all of you!

I don't own an Avensis, but, the parking brake (handbrake) warning light is often also used as a 'low brake fluid' warning light. This would fit in with your symptoms. The sensor is almost certainly in the brake fluid container lid. Some very gradual drop in fluid level follows on from normal brake pad wear being accomodated by extra fluid behind the caliper piston. But, (when the brakes were last checked?) I would get this looked into with some urgency. It may be nothing more than worn brake pads and a lack of someone topping up the fluid. But if the fluid drops too far then you will have no footbrake. This is your early warning.