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& bearing in mind that Toyotas typically count range down to a reserve amount & not empty (iirc you don't want to run out of fuel in a hybrid as I understand it is a complex procedure to restart)

I'm not an expert, but:- I don't think the VVti has anything to do with it, and those five-sided bolts suggest removal/dismantling that unit is a real no-no. And it might even be impossible to reassemble without factory tools/gauges etc. As I'm sure you know, the crud under the valve cover is not in itself a reason not to start, but an possible tell-tale of other more problematic crud elsewhere e.g. piston rings. The compression readings are pretty grim, but with a little oil into the bores, the engine starts. So, I think the dilemma is what technique do you use to unstick the rings without damaging the catalyst. After reading through this post again, I'd put my money on your problem being low compression through sticking rings. If the engine was running, then that might be an engine flush and an extended 'Italian tune-up'. With a follow-on of shorter oil change intervals with a synthetic oil, which is very widely regarded as having a much better detergent performance. I don't think semi-synthetic is a big step up from regular mineral oil, as was suggested by an automotive engineer who did regular engine oil analysis as part of his job. With the engine not running at the present, I think a cheap improvement (enough compression to get it running) might be through bathtub tom's 'diesel down the spark plug holes' suggestion. Most of it will end up in the sump after leaving it overnight. Diesel is underrated as a dismantling fluid. I am very happy for someone to disagree with any of the above. This is an interesting puzzle when it is someone else who is getting their hands dirty. My sympathies! Did you improvise when connecting the scope leads to the car's connectors? Or did you have dedicated leads? I've never done this, my old scope sits in the garage unused! For what it's worth, the latest instructions for Wynns engine flush tell you to add the whole tin as normal oil, then let the engine tick over for 20 minutes. Stop the engine, then drain the oil, replace the filter and refill with your regular oil.

My previous Toyota, an Auris TS 1.8 that I purchased when it was a year old in 2016 I kept a record until I sold it last month throughout that time I averaged 53.7 MPG. My distance to work was 10 miles so in the winter by the time I was at the end of my journey it had not long got up to temp. I was quite satisfied with what I was getting for the engine size, the best I got for a tank full was 60.2 in the summer. The indicated average for each tank usually read about 2-3 MPG more than what I actually got and this was constant over the time I had that car!

The Gen 4 business edition; 15 inch wheels is the best Prius we have owned. ( Drivers side wiper is a nuisance: previously discussed).We previously owned Gen 2 and Gen 3 Prius; all good reliable cars. I agree with the comments on the auto headlights. On all Prius editions they are no good in snow or ice unless you fit winter tyres. My Apple I Phone S cannot be charged on the Prius charging pad. The MPG is excellent; the computer showed 84 MPG on a recent 60 mile non motorway trip. Toyota dealers are very helpful, better than all other dealers I have had dealings with. The skinny spare wheel is better than gunge but I would prefer a proper full sized spare wheel. The safety features are very good, and the car is fully stable in an emergency brake. My dealer is having a new car sale special event and is endeavouring to get me to buy a new car and promising an exceptional deal. I do not do a lot of mileage and my road tax free immaculate 2017 Gen 4 suits me fine

Fair enough, I just wondered as it seems to be an "in" thing at the moment, and I would love to earn any extra income for car parts 😄 😄 😄

The kinematic viscosity of a 0w20 at 100deg.C. is about 9cSt. A 5W30 is about 10cSt. Its sweet FA difference to be honest. Anything up to a 40 would be ok. KV is non-linear with temp and increases massively at low temps. Around 0deg.C. can be 800+ cSt. so its important to run a 0W or a 5W for winter cold starts - ensures the oil gets round quickly. Important on Toyotas because they tend to run with a high fast idle - i.e. revs can jump to 2000rpm on a cold start.

I have spent half a lifetime in the motor industry and I can tell you that engine failures due to lubrication breakdown are almost unheard of nowadays. Obviously you need to maintain the oil level and change at least annually to avoid sludge (which is a problem on some engines). In Thailand I run a 1999 Camry 2.2. It has spent hours crawling in Bangkok traffic with the outside temp at 40+ deg and then blasting along highways at 70-80mph. The car now has 400 000 km on the original engine and still doesn't use any significant amount of oil. Its had a change every 6 months using the cheapest 5W-30 oil and a no-name filter from B-Quik (a local fast-fit chain). Just change the oil regularly and don't worry too much.

Daytime running lights are intended for the front of the vehicle. This is to make the car more visible when approaching pedestrians, and other road users.

Of course, Keith, thats obviously it. 👍

I just had my Prius serviced today by Mr Toyota. I usually specify when booking in over the phone and when I actually drop the vehicle off that 0w-20 is used. Today I forgot, BUT when I went back to collect (and pay😪) I asked what oil was put in and it was actually stated on the Invoice/Service sheet , 0w-20. So not all Toyota dealers are going for the option of biggest profit margin (if indeed many or none are doing that). Though 5w-30 is acceptable, in the case of the Prius (and Auris Hybrid), 0w-20 is mentioned first so that in my mind is the preferred choice and thus what I want. I dont know what the service handbook says re 2009 petrol Auris says. As for changing from semi to full synthetic I dont know if there would be a negative reaction, I suspect not. What is important, and all the more so you doing short runs and not a lot of annual miles is to change the oil and filter regularly in accord with manufacturers recommendations or even sooner. Every 2 years is way to long. Compared to potential engine problems the cost of 5 litre of oil and a filter is cheap. The way to longevity is to change the oil and filters, no secret to that.

Restore? ... No ... I buy the cheapest tat on Ebay, then 'finesse' them until they are usable. Actually buying old 'bootsale' quality/worn out kit and then refurbing... too much hassle m8 2sav

Try using some vegetable oil