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Is that a (orange) warning light for your tyres on the right there? Could the car be alerting you to low tyre pressure? That may not be it but it's a place to start (don't forget to reset the sensor after any corrections).

Well, after multiple attempts to have this fixed, (most companies couldn't even be bothered to reply), I decided to do it, with lots of help from my brother in law. This decision was inspired by a Youtube video by, Mad Fox, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9F7CySrt4Co Thanks to Mad Fox for the video. There are other videos by Peter Finn on Youtube, that helped. FOR MY CAR a Toyota Avensis, 55 plate, 1.8 VVTi Hatchback (ZZT251R-ALMEKW 1ZZFE 01.2003) Tooling. General hand tools, good quality gear puller - with thin claws, torque wrenches, to cover values of of 16 to 118 Nm. (M10 x 1.5 thread, long bolt, with large washers and large nut, to assist in squeezing the gears / bearings in).Parts used. I bought the two bearings, input shaft rear, PFI P/N B25-238D - cost £11.62 and output shaft rear NSK P/N B25-163ZNX.C3, cost - £19.73. Toyota ones will be more expensive and will most likely be the same. Also need Loctite 242, or equivalent, to threadlock certain parts. Gear Oil GL4 75W90, 2 x 1 litres is enough, 1.9 litres used. 2 x aluminium crush washers required for the gearbox drain and fill plug, Toyota P/N 90430-W0001, (or source similar OD 24mm, ID 18mm, Thickness 2mm). Silicon gasket - Toyota P/N 00295-01281, or equivalent spec, -60C - +200C. Only the output shaft bearing was worn, almost to destruction but it's worthwhile doing both once access is gained. The bearings were replaced with the gearbox still fitted to the car. For access, the left wheel, engine and gearbox trays were removed. We also removed the battery and air filter box, so that we could remove the forward and nearside engine mounting bolts, to lower the gearbox a little. Watch the video by Mad Fox above on the basic steps of the job. It's not too hard a job to do and could potentially save you a lot of money / your gearbox. I will try and attach a video of the issue with my bearing and some stage photos. Torque values Fork Bolt 16 Nm - with threadlock Bearing Cover 27 Nm - with threadlock Output Shaft Bolt 118 Nm - staked Outer Gearbox Cover 18 Nm Oil filler and drain Plug 39 Nm 1.mp4

Finally found a lovely Pearl White ex-demo Prius Plug-in Excel. Just seven months old and a little over 5k on the clock. As usual, it involved a lengthy trip of over 300 miles each way, but worth it I hope. On the way back now and on nearly 90 mpg since the battery emptied. I’m sure it won’t remain as good as that, but I’ll report back when I get home tomorrow. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice, particularly Jay.

Should be a sticky this post.

Toyota's map updates tend to be at the better value end compared to most car manufacturers. From reading various car websites etc. my impression is that there is a strong chance that Honda has the worst infotainment systems of any. Tbh I find Touch 2 with Go OK. I think that I have a fair grip of why it is suggesting what it does & why it may not suggest routes that a true local might. Of course, in much of Scotland you don't have too many choices of route ... 😛 & who supplies Toyota's "live" traffic? That's right, TomTom ...

Excellent news, Paul! I hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine. Post a pic when you can - I love Pearl White.

Took it to toyota and they found the fault When the car was wrapped the lights came off When they put them back on they got the connections crossed over and plugged them into the wrong bulb connection All good now

Why would you want to go to all that trouble? If dual zone is not on then it is single zone. Don't select auto and it may all be manually controlled.

Hi, I realise this is an older thread but I have the same issue - I recently changed the rear discs, pads And calipers on my 2009 Avensis Tourer D4D. It has a manual electric brake (ie, it does not automatically come on when the ignition is switched off), so in order to do this work myself, I simply switched the car ignition off when the handbrake was off, which allowed freewheeling of the rear wheels. I have changed endless brakes over the last 30 years but I'm stuck with the following problem - the 'Check Parking Brake' warning is coming on each and every time I use the EPB. If you turn off the ignition and re turn it on, it will clear the code and allow use of the EPB again, but only once each time. I have tried the OBD hack (12th and 4th pins short) but this does not work, neither does any holding in or pulling out of the EPB button. I took the car to an independent garage who could not clear the code, then I took it to Toyota who also could not clear the code. Instead they told me that the actuator had failed (but they could not tell me what was wrong with it) and that the cost to replace is upwards of £1000. I am not convinced the actuator has failed one bit, as it still works, on and off, albeit only once per ignition switch on. It seems that Toyota do not have a clue about this, other than to simply replace all parts, however, having read several threads on this, it looks like the ECU throws an EPB failure code at the slightest anomaly in the system, whether that be uneven braking, sticking calipers, broken pins, or just because its a cloudy day and it's feeling a bit down. I am at a loss over this, I have checked over my work on replacing the calipers discs and pads and everything works as it should. I have watched the cables pull on both sides as someone else turns the EPB button on and off, and each time both wheels lock up and release as they should. My next move was to completely strip both sides, regrease caliper slides etc, then re-bleed the rear calipers. Can someone PLEASE shed any light on this?? It is too much of a coincidence that the actuator has failed just after I changed the brakes, but no matter what I do, I cannot stop this failure code from showing! I'm determined to fix this without paying £1000+ for an item that I just know is not broken. Anyone pleeeeeaaaase.................!!! Thanks!!! (-:

Special tnx to Devon Aygo! You have right! This connector was rusty and looks very bad. I change connector with new and after 3.75 euro and 40 minutes left in garage, all working nice! Tnx mate!

Do you have a tow bar fitted as the electric socket for the tow bar usually contains a switch to disable the cars rear fog light when a trailer is fitted and the small switch is the socket is common for failing.