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12v battery maintenance, issues, etc.


FROSTYBALLS
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13 hours ago, Derek.w said:

If you suffer from a flat 12 volt battery and car wont start without a jumper pack of some sort then try this providing the HV battery has a good charge lets say above 60%.

Pull up the handbrake button and keep it up then press the starter button and hold it down after 45 seconds release handbrake button then start button.

Hopefully car will start but it depents on type of 12 volt battery fault and how low it is after a quick boost from HV battery.

Do you mean that with this procedure the ecu will force HV contactors to close and power DC-DC converter ?

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I spoke too soon.

Fully charged Battery to 12.97 volts on Sunday night. Went to Morrisons 8.5 miles each way yesterday. Headlights on all the way and back in the brilliant winter sunshine.

Battery showing 12.3 volts today.

Placed an order to get a Bosch 44ahr  S4 202 Battery fitted on Thursday by RAC.

£143.......absolute bargain for a bigger bucket with a hole in it.

This 2022 Toyota Yaris Cross is a complete and utter waste of my time and money.

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1 hour ago, Chas G said:

Battery showing 12.3 volts today.

 

1 hour ago, Chas G said:

This 2022 Toyota Yaris Cross is a complete and utter waste of my time and money.

 

Are people getting too hung up on figures?

Did it fail to start the next time you tried it?

My meter (MK3 non hybrid) is showing 11.8 after standing all night according to the charts online its only at 30% charged even thought it had a good run out the night before, it was -2 here this  morning and it started immediately with no hesitation.

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2 minutes ago, Max_Headroom said:

 

 

Are people getting too hung up on figures?

Did it fail to start the next time you tried it?

My meter (MK3 non hybrid) is showing 11.8 after standing all night according to the charts online its only at 30% charged even thought it had a good run out the night before, it was -2 here this  morning and it started on the second spin. (not second try)

I didn't bother trying to start it.

Until i bought the yaris cross, I had toyota non hybrid cars for nearly 20 years and when I was not well 3 years ago, I regularly used to leave my car for weeks without any Battery issues.

Before anyone tells me that modern cars use more power when left standing, I have turned off the keyless smart entry, it's not connected to mytoyota and the dash cam has been taken out.

The bigger Battery will no doubt give me a bit longer until the it goes flat. A car that won't charge the 12 volt Battery after an 8.5 mile each way journey in my opinion isn't fit for purpose.......and I am sick of looking at that banal graphic showing how the traction battery is charging while having to drive with my lights headlights on in bright sunshine.

I just hope the computer boots up ok after the battery has been replaced.

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51 minutes ago, Chas G said:

, I have turned off the keyless smart entry, it's not connected to mytoyota and the dash cam has been taken out.

That is but one or two power drains, and I think minor ones at that. 

The car alarm will be a drain.  The car also never goes to sleep.  All the time it is live and listening incase the mothership calls.

When you first switch off it uploads the analytics from the DCM.  How much power it consumes I don't know.

It then listens for a wake up command.  Assuming you never interrogate your MyT App the car will sit in the standby listening mode.  How much is the drain from this?

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I have googled this question but can't find the answer.

Does anyone know if the Bosch 44ahr  S4 202 battery has a vent?

The Battery choice was selected by the Rac website and is the right size but I am a bit worried whether they will be able to fit my vent tube.

The existing multa does have a vent tube.

thanks

Chas

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1 hour ago, Chas G said:

A car that won't charge the 12 volt battery after an 8.5 mile each way journey in my opinion isn't fit for purpose.

It doesn't need to charge it the Battery doesn't need to be full as it doesn't crank the engine it only needs to have enough juice to power the 12v systems, as you said you didn't try it there is no reason it wouldn't have started.

Toyota  have sold 715,000 Yaris Cross in the UK imagine how many new posts there would be here daily if the Battery was as bad as some are making out, those that drive regularly are not having problems the issue originally raised its head when we had covid lockdown and people were not driving for weeks on end.

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@Max_Headroom my problem is I get paranoid.

You are absolutely right about Toyota and their sales of the Yaris Cross.

I was going to get the RAC to fit tails for my ctek 5 charger and the BM2 Battery monitor when they fit the 44 ahr Bosch Battery but I have changed my mind.

I just need to get the bigger Battery fitted and must stop constantly checking.

If it doesn't start I will use the Noco jump pack. If that doesn't work I will phone the AA or RAC. 

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2 hours ago, Max_Headroom said:

It doesn't need to charge it the battery doesn't need to be full as it doesn't crank the engine it only needs to have enough juice to power the 12v systems, as you said you didn't try it there is no reason it wouldn't have started.

Toyota  have sold 715,000 Yaris Cross in the UK imagine how many new posts there would be here daily if the battery was as bad as some are making out, those that drive regularly are not having problems the issue originally raised its head when we had covid lockdown and people were not driving for weeks on end.

Well said 

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Dial down the OCD, take a breath and relax - Stop assuming a problem before it's even happened; Just keep a portable jumpstarter handy and just use the car until it actually has a problem instead of preemptively changing the Battery for no reason.

I've had my Mk4 for nearly 3 years now and it's never failed to start once, despite me leaving the lights on once and leaving it for 2 weeks during some school holidays.

I intend to put in the Yuasa Battery in the event it does fail to start, but until them I'm just keeping the jumpstarter in the car and using it as normal.

Life's to short to worry about things that may never happen; Plan for contingencies, but don't throw the baby out with the bathwater!

Also, with the Noco, familiarize yourself with its operation - I've seen a lot of posts (Not just here) complaining their Noco failed to jumpstart the car and decided they were rubbish, but I suspect it's because their batteries were too low and they didn't read the manual: The Nocos have a reverse-polarity protection, which relies on sensing the voltage of the Battery. If it's too low, it can't tell if you connected the jump leads wrong or not, and you have to put it into Force Charge mode to override the protection.

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23 hours ago, Cyker said:

Where'd you find that? I've not heard of that trick.

 

It was in a Toyota manual for the car not sure if its the paper one or a electronic one but I do remember reading it maybe I look for it when I have some time.

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29 minutes ago, Cyker said:

Dial down the OCD, take a breath and relax - Stop assuming a problem before it's even happened; Just keep a portable jumpstarter handy and just use the car until it actually has a problem instead of preemptively changing the battery for no reason.

I've had my Mk4 for nearly 3 years now and it's never failed to start once, despite me leaving the lights on once and leaving it for 2 weeks during some school holidays.

I intend to put in the Yuasa battery in the event it does fail to start, but until them I'm just keeping the jumpstarter in the car and using it as normal.

Life's to short to worry about things that may never happen; Plan for contingencies, but don't throw the baby out with the bathwater!

Also, with the Noco, familiarize yourself with its operation - I've seen a lot of posts (Not just here) complaining their Noco failed to jumpstart the car and decided they were rubbish, but I suspect it's because their batteries were too low and they didn't read the manual: The Nocos have a reverse-polarity protection, which relies on sensing the voltage of the battery. If it's too low, it can't tell if you connected the jump leads wrong or not, and you have to put it into Force Charge mode to override the protection.

Great news can I ask how many miles you have done in three years ? How many miles do you do a week ? Many thanks 

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I'm nearly at 38k miles so far! :eek: 

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When the Battery is replaced, will I need a code for the radio etc or should everything restart? 

I used to be the most confident person on the planet but something happened  11 years ago and since then everything worries me.

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28 minutes ago, Chas G said:

When the battery is replaced, will I need a code for the radio etc or should everything restart? 

I used to be the most confident person on the planet but something happened  11 years ago and since then everything worries me.

No code on my Yaris, think I may have had to retune radio station memories (DAB).

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9 hours ago, Chas G said:

I used to be the most confident person on the planet but something happened  11 years ago and since then everything worries me.

I sympathise.   I used to be able to open the bonnet, trace pipes or cables,  and do simple things like rewiring the headlights to work through relays 😂.

Now I open the bonnet and can't see the plugs let alone change them.   If I dropped a socket I could either reach down and retrieve it, or pick it up off the floor.  Now it will have gone for ever.

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16 hours ago, Chas G said:

while having to drive with my lights headlights on in bright sunshine.

Why would you do that? This slows down the charge speed of the 12v Battery

 

11 hours ago, Cyker said:

If it's too low, it can't tell if you connected the jump leads wrong or not, and you have to put it into Force Charge mode to override the protection.

I guess it's rather to protect against connecting it to non-battery items (eg. one clamp on negative terminal and one on the exposed engine part) or trying to jump start 6V batteries etc 🙂 

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22 minutes ago, hind said:

Why would you do that? This slows down the charge speed of the 12v battery

“Auto” headlights…

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12 hours ago, Cyker said:

Dial down the OCD, take a breath and relax - Stop assuming a problem before it's even happened; Just keep a portable jumpstarter handy and just use the car until it actually has a problem instead of preemptively changing the battery for no reason.

That's so patronising and a silly statement....and a bit of an oxymoron...stop assuming a problem....but...aren't you assuming a problem ... with a handy jump starter. 

I, for one, rely upon my car, so need to be a tad OCD ...to be certain it actually starts as and when required. I don't really want to be faffing on with a jumper...in a cold, dark and strange location.

 

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22 minutes ago, Bob66 said:

That's so patronising and a silly statement....and a bit of an oxymoron...stop assuming a problem....but...aren't you assuming a problem ... with a handy jump starter. 

I, for one, rely upon my car, so need to be a tad OCD ...to be certain it actually starts as and when required. I don't really want to be faffing on with a jumper...in a cold, dark and strange location.

 

I am sure @Cyker comments were made with good intention.

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4 minutes ago, Chas G said:

I am sure @Cyker comments were made with good intention.

I only intend good intentions too...but do like to challenge / debate comments made.

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1 hour ago, Graham47 said:

“Auto” headlights…

Whats wrong with them? Mine always seem to switch correctly according to the sunlight availability? 

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15 minutes ago, hind said:

Whats wrong with them? Mine always seem to switch correctly according to the sunlight availability? 

Yaris Cross - my headlights turn on in bright sunlight which irritates me because rightly or wrongly it makes me think that are stealing some of my 12 volt Battery charge.

I turn the stalk to position 1 running/side lights and the headlights go off. 

Personally I would rather control the lights myself and be able to turn them off completely in bright sunlight. I assume that not having an off switch is a pedestrian safety feature.

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5 minutes ago, Chas G said:

Yaris Cross - my headlights turn on in bright sunlight which irritates me because rightly or wrongly it makes me think that are stealing some of my 12 volt battery charge.

I turn the stalk to position 1 running/side lights and the headlights go off. 

Personally I would rather control the lights myself and be able to turn them off completely in bright sunlight. I assume that not having an off switch is a pedestrian safety feature.

I do the same, but the DRL go to half brightness which defeats the pedestrian safety aspect!  Technology for technologies sake!  Now, I just ignore them and let them have their fun.

What we need is a bright spark to invent a little gadget (oh, I've just done that!) with a solar panel on top that fits over the sensor on the dash and shines an LED on it.  The sensor would then see its too bright and not switch on the headlights, leaving the driver to decide when the lights go on.

If anyone wants to go fund me for a few 100,000 then I'll consider doing it.

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