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I have used Milners for years for all sorts of parts with Pajero, Sportstrak, Land Cruiser, various others and now my 2001 RAV 4. Never had any issue, wouldn't go anywhere else! They carry all the brake requirements for 4.2's and onwards. I have them on mine, all fitted by me with no problem. The only tricky bit are the parking brake shoe steady coil springs, but with a bit of deft handwork with large, needle nosed pliers (and much patience!) they do all go together well. Far less costly than the Main Stealers and the satisfaction of knowing a good job well done. The alternative could well be the daft lad, with no satisfaction........................

Saw a large Fixed Price Chart in reception at my local dealer with regard to minimum price promise service & repairs. A Prius battery replacement was listed at £90. (Date 25th July 2013.)

Puncture Safe now fitted, Only Time Will Tell !

both you guys are dead right....its not easy being a smaller dealer, and the 'consumer' will have to pay for any convenience that is provided.... .....but if the £££s are significant for the seller, invest £50 on a valet, take a lot of pics, write a up a history of the car, and reasons for sale etc, and at least try Autotrader for 2 weeks before doing a trade in.....the extra ££s would pay for a hire car for a couple of weeks, and leave a surplus its amazing the number of cars that are being sold with no presentation, no story, no pics, and probably no sale

OK, so the garage passed the car as totally fine, after checking. The best they could come up with was moisture, or software glitch. Interestingly - checked the owners manual, and on the electric windows section, it talks about what amounts to a hard reset of the system. If you encounter problems, hold the drivers window switch for 10 seconds longer once its closed, do the same on the other side, etc. Something of that ilk. So maybe there are a few kinks still in there. Mt T didnt give much away, but nobody looked too surprised. Whilst the car was in there i had the first service done a few months early, and i supplied them the 0/20. 88 GBP all in - inc 1 day courtesy car insurance. Not bad eh?

A bit dim Bothy? Probably brought on by the fact you posted that at 4.53 AM!! Good heavens man.............that's the middle of the night!! :D: :D:

?? What have you set the tyre pressures at? Going to a 16" wheel is not going to make that much difference on the Tyre Profile/Side wall height, its 15" wheels on the iQ, and 16" on iQ2 & iQ3 as standard. 17" rims will give you lower profile tyres if thats what is going to give the handling you are after, more than just fitting a less 'ECO' type tyre compound as is fitted. (low rolling resistance, which actually is the same as saying, not much grip.) I must suggest your slide you had to catch is not normal behaviour for a iQ being driven sportingly on public highways, (well maybe it is when braking mid corner at around 60 mph, dependent on the road surface and tyre pressure) best check things out on the car. (I drive offroad quickly and on road with verve in different cars, an iQ can be driven like an original mini, ie keep the throttle down in corners and expect to be in control, braking in corners or on different road surfaces with Electrics switched on can take that control away from the drivers control), yes a safety feature, but then lifting off and slowing down if the car is at its limits is also a safety feature on all cars. One thing to check with the car because it is a 59 plate is that it has had the re-call work done already when in the previous owners possession.. *Cheap, since the RE-Call work costs nothing to you, if it has not been carried out already.* It should possibly have had the steering done, that caused a braking problem before the fix was done, and an ecu update and the brake pipe recall which would have had the brake fluid changed. (the brake fluid is due to be changed again probably.) iQ's THAT WERE FIRST SHOWING PROBLEMS BEFORE BRAKE RECALLS, HAD THE BRAKES BEHAVING FUNNILY ON ROUGH ROAD SURFACES AND THE LIKES, HENCE THE NEED FOR THE ECU UPGRADE. Handling really is not a problem on an iQ, if you suspect yours is not just as it should be you maybe want another iQ driver to try yours, or go roadtest a couple of other iQs if you have not already. Fit as good tyres as the budget allows, but maybe the suspension is needing looked at. Maybe the car has just had such an easy life having done only 6.000 miles. The springs are pretty much unstressed, or actually the dampers could be shot even tho the cars has hardly done any miles. this all needs considered and looked at. Look closely at those tyres, low mileage but sitting square wheels if not in a garage out of the sun and weather is not great for tyres. And maybe go try driving the car in your sporting manner 'with the electrics switched off,' Hold in the Button for over 3 seconds and switch it off. The car handles well. or should on dry good surfaces. But importantly check the RE-call work has been done and inspect again those Tyres, Discs, Pads and see that they are all perfect. http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/visual-tyre-size-calculator http://www.fensport.co.uk http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_97/Category_2 http://www.fensport.co.uk/FensportCars/iQ3.aspx http://www.camskill.co.uk george

It's a 59 car with 6k of very gentle driving on it when we got it. The road surface was clean & dry & it was definitely the tyre, mainly the tyre wall causing the problem (I also accept ultimately I was the cause of the situation). The 185 tyre would cause a slight difference in the speedo but as has a tendency to over read should be ok & I don't really want to fit larger wheels. My main concern is that my son will very soon start to explore what he & the car can do & whilst I'm quite used to throwing a car around on a track & in the woods, a novice driver would not have caught the slide I experienced in the IQ. Tyres in my opinion are the biggest safety feature on a car & finding the right tyre/car combo can save an awful lot of problems. Michelins have always had good grip & decent sidewalls but I had a problem with them delaminating on a Renault 5 1.1L so I'm a little wary of them. Conti's are hard & almost dangerous in the wet on my MG ZR 160. Not really had much to do with Goodyears but I do like Yokohama so maybe they are the way to go.

Just a thought - could there have been some diesel or similar on the road surface, which may have been partly responsible for the back end stepping out. From an Excel spreadsheet I have showing Toyota OE tyre fitments on new vehicles 2008-13, Toyota also fit the Bridgestone B250 and Yokohama S70 to the 1 litre IQ as OE. Fitting 185/60/15's may make the speedo under-read slightly at 70. In the most recent Which? test on car tyres the Best Buy tyres for this size were (in descending order): Continental ContiPremiumContact 5, Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance and Michelin Energy Saver +. Three 'Don't Buys' due to their poor wet grip were Kleber Dynaxer HP3, Marangoni Verso and Sailun Attrezza SH402. For 185/65/15's the Best Buys were Michelin Energy Saver and Pirelli Cinturato P6.

I have 215 x18x35 on mine and lowered. Handling is out of this world David

Ha its funny how history repeats itself Bob I too did the same and with the front seat belts to stop them getting stuck in the door. Documented on here about a year and a half ago. David

When the fuel level goes down to the last bar on the fuel guage, the last bar flashes in a worrying manner. However when you fill up you find you have another 50 miles of fuel What I would like to know is what happens when you are really very low in fuel? Does the last bar disappear and the R flash? In another car, in which I ran out of fuel, there was an alarm sound, but this only went off with 200 yards of fuel left! So have you ever run out of fuel in your iQ Thanks TD

Its very ambiguois. Its very difficult to car share. For instance, i drove the car and the fuel indicator dropped down to two bars. In the morning my wife went out in it and it was back up to 3 bars. 5 miles later it had dropped to two again and a further4 miles had the last bar flashing and her panacking as she was on the motorway. So seeing the gauge at face value, you think you have 1/2 a tank, then drops to two bars. But because you dont know how much of fuel was used when it was at two bars the day before, you actually have no idea ever how much fuel you have left at any time. The ECU info is correct as its available at the OBD 2 socket but the algorithm sucks. It should never go back up once dropped. Very misleading David

I'm believe fuel consumption figures improve for drivers over a certain age. Something to do with it all being downhill from there.......? Sorry couldn't resist that.

The petrol gauge is not the best in my view however it is adaquate, I just fill up when two bars are left, end of problem.

Ha ha loosing it 200yrds David

It was last year that we were discussing tank sizes and speculation on how much fuel was left when the last segment starts flashing, Ha all that work now i can't remember what the result was!!! David

'I have run it out purposely and restarted it 4 times and did about 200yrs' .... and Bob Kneale is wondering whether his IQ will last 130,000 miles.

If travelling at 20-30 mph, it groans and cuts out but you can restart it. I have run it out purposely and restarted it 4 times and did about 200yrs David

Yep, Run out luckily at home. Managed to get home then couldn't restart the car. No change, flashing last bar only. Fill it up before it flashes is my policy now. Craig.

Hello Alan, thank you - it was a faulty pressure valve! Now running perfectly for 1 year after main dealer replacement but it took some pursuading for them to take it in for reapir as they were skeptical about whether the fault could be identified. :)

Charlie you have to go through due process, the Ombudsman will not entertain you if you have not gone through the complaints procedure. The Ombudsman is only there to adjudicate as a "last resort" The OP may very well put in a complaint and the warranty company roll over and pay up (fingers crossed) If you go straight to the Ombudsman, he will want all the details, and the claim has not even been put to the complaints department yet. YES if all else fails and you have been written to denying your claim you have the right to go to the Ombudsman, but not before due process has taken place. These things take time, follow the complaints procedure in the warranty booklet first I think the OP has a better chance by trying to get some money out of the selling garage, it might be a contribution but better than nowt Kingo