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i think this forum is quite "boring" in the best possible way!!! Not many scary stories are being shared. This thread is probably the scariest of them all with a blown engine on a pretty new car. This is really worrying and I hope no one ever experience this again - not with a Toyota!!! Most of the issues everyone else is sharing here are not major ones and it's normal for any kind of machinery to have little bugs here and there- something for us to talk about

My personal opinion is that you should be thankful they won't do it at Halfrauds. You would get a better job done in the primate area at London Zoo.

Forum statistics can be very misleading, people come to a forum for a couple of reasons, to find out more about the car they are driving or to help others. There are also a large number that come to complain about the brand or dealer, which then gives a false impression of the problem at hand

I believe the op had simply a bad luck and got a lemon car. There are so many Toyota cars with these engines and yes there are others who run into same injectors issues but not so big numbers imo. Also there is no statistics as far as I am aware to check actual numbers of complaints. Either way, I also be more inclined to buy 1.8 gen 4 or gen5 over the 2.0 versions just become the same reasons plus the 1.8 engine is easier to maintain as diy, has less clutter and more access to do things on it. The 2.0 under bonnet looks very crowded., more like a German car. About other brands, I had my eyes on Skoda Octavia 2021-> models hatchback and I think this is best in class as body car, but the engine choice is simply no go for me. Plus I had been enjoying many years of driving Toyota hybrids, promoting and recommending these cars to friends and family, and now myself to go and buy something else seems like a joke that I will regret if I go and do it. Plus every time I try another brand except premium larger models I feel that Toyota is one of the very best. Ford, Vauxhall, Stellantis products and similar are no go for me, at least not for my own money. , I can drive them but not buying or maintaining by myself for sure.

I prefer rubber mats, as they are easier to keep clear, hoover out the dirt, and in wet weather they don't absorb water (easily wiped) which in turn causes condensation.

As Cyker puts it, it's vegan leather (synthetic)

I've driven few different brands over the years- 2 Kias, old petrol Corolla, diesel Clio, and old BMW 320 petrol.... 2006 1.9 Diesel Octavia with DSG - lots of costly problems once it hit 120k miles. DSG, Electrical, calipers issues, the list goes on and on.... I loved the car, but had to get rid of it 2006 1.8 Petrol Avensis - super reliable car, but needed something better on fuel for my 20ish k miles per year 2013 1.6 diesel Civic - absolutely faultless vehicle, but upcoming ULEZ in London pushed me to get rid of it. Checked its latest MOT 174k miles still passing without any advisories. And the Corolla 2022 1.8 TS now - almost went for the 2L engine, but the running cost(fuel, insurance, PPC) put me off I really wanted to stick with Honda, but their 10th generation with turbo engines put me off the brand. I still check the Civiforum time to time and read horrible stories for the 11th gen hybrid Civic My experience(also from friends) Toyota and Honda (at least Honda used to) have the best cost effective cars to run. Not talking about reliability, but cost of running - which is pretty much the same. They all have issues, and need a certain maintenance, but thinking of general maintenance, servicing and consumables for a car...... Toyotas usually don't need timing chain replacing, their suspension is made to last, 1.8 petrol engine is bomb proof, electrics are pretty good without many issues, specifically for hybrid cars - brakes last longer than regular ones, no DPF, no clutch, no turbo, no gearbox(eCVT have 0 issue records as long as I am aware) no starter, no alternator, no auxiliary belt, etc..... This is why I picked a Corolla, and today is exactly 2 years since I have it. 39k miles so far and I am happy with my choice. Not a perfect vehicle, it has its pros and cons, but the running cost and reliability is the most important bit in any vehicle for me( and yes I want a Lexus ES300H, but haven't grown enough to have one, yet 😀 ) Apart of an odd infotainment system glitch(had it reinstalled by the dealer), and wheel alignment because it was pulling slightly to the left I haven't had any other issues - I know its only 2 years and 39k miles yet, but that's exactly what I've been expecting from Toyota. Hopefully the case for another 5 years and 100k miles more

I start off with a fully charged battery and then I would rely on conserving voltage by having the smart entry turned off, dashcam disconnected, automatic headlight sensor turned down to minimum, thermals and hot water bottle for an hour in ready mode. If the worst happens the charged Noco battery pack is stored in the glove box and the jump leads are under the front seat. My membership of the AA Roadside recovery and RAC (53 years) would be my last option. Holidays abroad, I would book the flights from Heathrow which is a taxi ride away or ask @Mojo1010 to give me a lift.

I do my own oil changes and always have done with every car I have owned. I barely do 4000 miles year in recent years since 2020, but still change the oil annually. My car just went through the MOT and emissions are very low. Have not need to top up. I stick with the preferred grade of 0w20 - same 1.8 Valvematic engine as the OP. I also replace the filter since it's right by the drain plug. That's the only issue I would have with the suction systems where the oil filter is not easily accessible. Unlike canister type filters, it is less easy to check if a garage has changed the cartridge type oil filters.

Hello dear Toyota fellows I'm a owner of a Prius 1st gen with 350'000 km for two years and it's a great car, no technical problems so far. The only issue is the availability of some parts. They are really difficult to find and that's the reason I join all the forums related to Prius. I hope to find a non critical but special part or at least some pictures and measurements of it to rebuild it. Regards!

Hmm, on the newer models you should only need to bring the car to a complete halt. On the older ones I think you need to stop the car then firmly press in the brake pedal for a few seconds for it to engage.

Sometimes I feel this old too

Thanks. Happened at traffic lights, lorry driver not paying attention. Loved that car - sorry to lose it.

Hi Mike, Sorry about your accident as long as you are not hurt that's the main thing. A right old wack and he must have been moving by the damage.☹️

My take is the profile of the tyre matter more, if they put 225/50/18 then it will be just as good as my 16" Yaris.

The ride seems fine as it is. If I ever find myself in the position of needing to replace all four tyres at the same time I will consider other brands but so far I've replaced a pair at a time so I prefer to stay with Falkens.

Great post Tony, thanks very much, ( I had a Skoda Octavia once. Had a DCT Gearbox, was a nightmare on 4 wheels, DCT failed twice in two years, collapsed leaving car undriveable, I think VAG made them out of tin foil and blu -tac. It was after that I vowed only ever to have Japanese cars).

"Vegan Leather" Wow, fancy that😳 When I passed my test in 1988, I bought an old Ford Cortina. That had Vegan Leather seats (although, they called in Vinyl in those days...). I'm having a "Vegan Steak" for my lunch today (i.e., a jacket Potato 😆). Thanks for the info, cheers, Mark

All leather is fake. 2019 has half leather seats which are actually nicer than the following years. I haven’t tried the design 2022-> with half leather seats to compare but I think these and the GR sport has best materials available on seats offered for Corolla in uk.

No problem Chas, as long as we can use your house for hosting Toyota forum members parties to discuss your plug in garage, charge our cars, use your printer to print out loads of 12v graphs etc.

It's a joke 😉 Chas has a phobia that his 12V battery would discharge and he won't be able to drive so he is plugging it to charger every time he arrives at home 😉

Many thanks Bob will look in my local dealer next week when it’s stopped raining !!

The Ecoboost wet belt system is know for problems when they are not maintained properly, usually when people put the wrong grade oil in them and over extending the interval time, the engine is pretty much scrap when they let go. There is a chap on TikTok that explains it well

Stock hybrid and BEV cars have a BMS which does the job for the Lithium traction battery. At the very least there ought to be a warning system to alert the owner that the auxiliary battery requires a charge. Agreed. Here is the SoC table for my Lifeline lead AGM batteries. Paying lots of money for good batteries doesn't alter the chemistry. The figures are for resting voltages, what you see if you isolate the battery and leave it in a stable moderate ambient temperature for a while (published advice varies about the length of time). The moment the battery has any discharge or receives any charge the voltage will change. The moment the battery voltage drops below 50% irreversible damage occurs due to a phenomenon described as sulphation. Lifeline Batteries State of Charge Bold values from Lifeline manual, page 32. Other values are interpolated 100% 12.78 v 80% 12.54 v 60% 12.30 v 95% 12.72 v 75% 12.48 v 55% 12.24 v 90% 12.66 v 70% 12.42 v 50% 12.18 v 85% 12.60 v 65% 12.36 v Never go below 50%

Even with the Mutlu in mine it wouldn't go flat with that kind of use. Now I have fitted the Yuasa I'm really hoping it's the end of any issues.....

Personally, I would not - the lenses and mirroring of the DRL part of the headlamp assembly were designed for the focal point from the designated filament to be correct to emit a powerful beam of light during daylight from just a 21W bulb, and to use a lamp that the unit was not designed for could mean the DRL's are not as visible as they should be, and also could be an MOT fail. Of course, it's your car and if you think LED aftermarket bulbs would perform to the same ability as incandescent filament bulbs then it would be your call. I know some Yaris models of the same year actually do come with LED DRL's as standard, but I'd rather have the bulb type that the Icon uses as if the LED units fail, they cant be replaced cheaply unlike the bulb type where all you need to buy is a couple of bulbs costing peanuts.

Hi all I have an update … After waiting a few weeks the part arrived from eBay so I got straight to work. My first thought was to just get the USB part fitted into the blanking space on the dashboard , turns out I brought the wrong size so spend a few day sanding the plastic down to fit. After this I popped down to Halfords and got a mini piggyback fuse lead and some assorted fuses. I crimped the positive from the usb lead to the piggyback lead and plugged it into the acc fuse on the fuse box. Next I removed the footwell trim and grounded the black cable to a bolt. gave everything a test and it works ! As for the location i agree having loose cables isn’t safe however i have a phone holder on the windscreen and will only be using one of the small charging cables so nothing will be swinging around Also thats for the replies !

Only one? I've got 5 between here and the village.

35Ah Yuasa Source: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR1nsxCzwy0

this is the best upgrade for what you currently have https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304876647628

Apologies for the late response. For those interested I bought some Diesel fuel additive and cleaner. Drove it hard/fast through the gears. Saw a bit of black smoke then after about 20-30mins drive, returned home. No problem since.

There are usually two main reasons for premature wiper blades wear, fault with the wiper arm or jet washer nozzle or dry use. If the wipers were left constantly ON where the window was not wet enough and the rubbers were continuously wiping on dry surface they get overheated and split. Good to double check the car for present faults and replace wipers under warranty eventually if the service technician find a fault with the car itself. The original equipment wipers are made by Denso and they are too if not the best quality wipers on the market. You can try aftermarket brands like Bosch, Hella, Michelin, these are also good.

That must include the cost of buying the car.

Brand new Corolla 2.0 excel via dealer introduction for driveaway 3 day policy. Toyota Quoted nine thousand one hundred and twenty pounds. That was clean licence and full NCB plus garaged and average mileage. Eventually got just under 700. Previous car was competitive and there was a cashback after 3 months plus following renewal was within a few quid. No better deal around. Then year 3 silly money.

Hi Callum, While it's tempting to assume that fuel filler necks from similar Toyota models might be compatible due to their visual similarities, it's crucial to avoid using parts not specifically designed for your vehicle. Here's why Fuel filler necks are critical components related to the fuel system of your car. Using an incompatible part might lead to possible fuel leaks This poses a significant fire hazard and can damage other car components. Improper fuel delivery, An incompatible neck might not fit correctly, leading to issues with fuel flow and engine performance. Functionality: Even if a part seems visually similar, slight differences in size, shape, or connection points can lead to: Installation difficulties: The part might not fit properly, requiring modifications or creating gaps. Leaks or malfunctions: Improper fit can cause leaks or malfunctioning of the fuel system. IMO I would buy the correct one for your vehicle it may be dearer but at least it will be compatible and safer.😄

Depending on the computer system used by your dealer, it may take a while to update. There is a preferred system for dealers, but some large groups have their own software and there can be a delay on picking up the data

I don't know how much it takes, but there's definitely a time lag. It may take several days, or a few weeks, mine was showing I needed the 30k km service quite a while after the service was done.

Toyota dealers do fit them. Halfrauds and the like don't want to work on Hybrids, they have no idea about them and won't pay for training

Probably means it's on the way to the dealer. If it's anything like it used to be, when it started to move, it would briefly go back a step before correcting after a few hours.

Toyota Dealers fit the NextBase 380GW ( for both front and rear it is 380 GWX, I would definitely think about getting the rear one fitted as well, very useful if you get bumped from behind). This is NextBase's Commercial model, designed for fleets of trucks and Vans. It is a very tough, reliable, workhorse type of thing. Halfords fit quite a wide range, including ones that are cheaper that Toyota Dealers (they definitely do fit to Hybrids, it's no different to fit Dash Cams to a Hybrid) normal price, although, if you ask nicely, I expect Toyota Dealer will come up with a discount. [ I have the front and rear 380GWX in my Auris, very happy with them]. Cheers, Mark

I had my issues with Toyota also. But ultimately it was resolved. Again I think no matter the brand or the dealer issues can still happen and I still think Toyota is a safer bet than others. Before I got my Corolla I was looking at the focus 1.0 eco boost engines but hear many many stories of them exploding so was put off.

Just got off phone to a local toyota dealer and the bladed blipper key is £135.37 and then £45 for encoding. so just over £180 total. He said at least its not the keyless i mentioned yeah there about £350 for the IQ. He then said i think the Hilux is £600 per key ... strewth...i said they put too many electronics on vehicles these days.

Hi Tony I tried pushing the accelerator after start in ev mode and it works beautifully. The ice fires up. Perfect. Thanks a lot. Kind regards

And there is one in our HV battery pack in Yaris as well 🙂 mainly because they do the hard work, are expensive to replace and it's easier for a single cell to go out of balance (because there are so many of them in a pack) when compared with regular 12V battery. Li-ion's provide excellent performance but are much more fragile than the Lead-acid battery. IIRC there is a message when the 12V battery drops too much. Somebody mentioned it somewhere in one of the threads. Of course you have to hit that sweet spot when the voltage is low enough to trigger the message and high enough to start the car 😉 More or less but yes, you can assume that.

Stoneacre...Darlington.

Yes you can, exactly with using the accelerator. Just push it harder and the car will fire up the engine immediately. You can do that also while stationary in P, just step on the gas and the engine will start but in most cases will cut off shortly after pedal been released. , you want to keep it running you need to keep pedal pressed. All Toyota self charging hybrids will fire up engine on cold starts as a first thing even with full battery and no matter hvac settings. The engine needs to be warmed up and ready to take over ev motor. To accelerate this process, yes you can maintain with higher temperatures set on the hvac panel. Another trick while drive off from cold or while in warm up stages to keep engine running more often and for longer is to push accelerator further while accelerate, the engine will kick in and remain ON for some time , where if only gently pushed the engine likely to be off. I do these steps now and try to avoid any ev drives as my hybrid battery is dead and when ev coasting I get hybrid battery faults.

My car went in today to a trusted mechanic for a seized front brake caliper. I had noticed a lot of brake dust, hot wheel and sudden drop in mpg. I expected to get a new caliper fitted but he said he couldn't get hold of one anywhere. Instead he has completely stripped it down and rebuilt it and glad to say it's working fine. It just got me wondering if the caliper was beyond repair, do Toyota still hold spares for the iq or will it be a nightmare getting replacement parts. I would hate to think that a much loved and cared for car would be forced off the road becouse of lack of new parts available. Anyway, glad to say she's as good as new again😁

The temperature on dashboard gauge can be misleading. It’s not precise, it works in steps. Correct temperature can be read via one connector.

The check engine light could also be faulty thermostat. If engine can’t reach optimal temperature, the egr valve can’t be open, causing the warning light. It’s also confusing that diagnostic will report that something is wrong with EGR, but the real cause could be thermostat.

What are you looking to gain moving from an Aygo to an Aygo X or a Yaris? It's probably better to decide what you want/need and then weigh up the 2 vehicles as to what best suits your list.