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80% + of premature turbo failures are due to lubrication issues. It's vital to use a quality engine oil of the correct grade and to adhere to recommended intervals for oil + filter changes. Allowing a turbo to spool down by letting the car idle before switching off serves two purposes. Firstly it minimises oil starvation to the bearings whilst the rotor is spinning at high speed. Secondly it allows some cooling in order to reduce degradation of oil. Some owners always allow around 30 seconds idle before switch-off. This can obviously only do good but the really important times to allow some idling time before switch-off is after a fast run or after a long uphill climb. Turbos are finely balanced machines and lively driving or hitting rev limits will do no harm.

Spare wheel is available for NG Aygo as an accessory part, parts required are: 42600-0DM61 - Space saver steel wheel and tyre 09126-0H020 - Luggage box 09110-0H010 - Jack 51931-0H020 - Wheel retainer 64778-0H020 - Floor protector qty x 3 required 09151-0H010 - Wheel wrench steel wheel 09151-0H020 - Wheel wrench alloy wheel

Hi Kristian. My 2.2 definitely runs smoother on Vpower than normal diesel & I prefer Shell to either Esso or BP so I don't think that you can generically blame Shell but possibly one garage had some contaminated fuel or possibly the previous owner had misfuelled it some way & there was still a remnant in the tank? Also,for completeness in your first post you say that you have a T180 150bhp - you can't. It's either a T180 (177bhp) or it has 150bhp (actually 147bhp). You can have a 2.2 D-CAT with 150bhp but that would be a very, very rare car in the UK (your profile says West Midlands) at that age. Most UK 2.2s 150bhps of that age were not D-CATs.

No eja I didn't. Changed and flushed out coolant pipes and also put in new thermostat but still same. Both pipes going into car from engine do be hot but it still blows cold air inside. I've been told the heating matrix may be gone but don't ask me where that is as I haven't a clue.... Now my turbo sensor is gone!! I'm cracking up now. I think toyota may change their quote " Best built cars in the world" to " pot luck if you get a faultless one",,,,, lol

The site you can access Toyota repair and service info is http://www.toyota-tech.eu but as stated some of the info is chargable

Have a look at Connects2 and Xcarlink: http://www.connects2.co.uk/ProductInformation.aspx?id=11954&p=CTATYIPOD002. http://www.xcarlink.co.uk/product.php?productid=272&cat=11&page=1

a tenner for what ???? did you break both deflectors or just 1 ? did you stick it back on ? if not do you notice the brighter and darker light illuminating the controls.... Hi all, just started ready this thread as my Hazard light and the Aircon light on my D$D dont illuminate and until now i though i had to replace the switches. Im sorry LCFC as youre not going to want to hear this but you dont force those bulbs into the front of the holders as its virtually impossible (I know i tried this weekend) I discovered that if you unclip the white unit (2 clips, 1 eitherside) you can move the white unit round to see the back, Either side of the wiring plug to this unit is a white tab, pull these tabs away from the plug and pull on the plug and it comes away from the white unit with the bulb holders.... Then you pleace the bulbs in the carriers and push it all back together again, Simples!!! Oh and instead of paying £10 for the pair of bulbs presumably from the dealer go to somewhere like GSF or Leamoco, the ones i bought were 25p each! I dont want to sound like a know it all or anything (especially as this is my first post), i just went through all this hassle last week and thought id share what i found out. Anyway thankyou again for the advise with the Hazard switch Mike