Leaderboard

Here's a how to remove rear bumper, just in case you prang it, or like me wanted to install a wifi aerial. Things you will need: 1. A long 10mm socket 2. A flat bladed screwdriver to remove clips. 1. Firstly Lift the bootlid up, take out the parcel shelf and fold the seats forward 2. Take out the lining that the spare tyre has above it, this should just lift out 3. Take out the bolts that hold the trim around the boot lock, 3 bolts, these also take the hooks out. 4. pull the plastic trim off 5. If you look through the cill, you'll see two studs with nuts on them, these are 10mm and need removing. You will need a LONG 10mm socket to get them off. you could try with pliers but you might be there all day. there is one on the left and right of the vehicle 6. pull the trim towards the filler cap away from the body, you will now be able to get at the lights, these don't actually need to be removed (you can apparently get the bumper off without doing it, but when i tried i almost broke a clip!). 7. Using a 10mm long socket, remove the lights, there are 3 studs with nuts. 8. Once this is done, remove the light fitting and disconnect the wiring loom. 9. The car will now look like this 10. Remove the screws at the back of the wheel arch, one either side 11. Now working underneath the car, you need to remove 12 clips. pull the middle out with a screwdriver or lump of plastic, then withdraw. its pretty obvious which ones hold the bumper on. 12. working from a wheel arch, *lift the bumper up slightly* then towards you, if you took the lights out, you can disengage the clip fairly easily. 13. here's the bumper removed 14. here's my wifi aerial! thats about it

Hello Golden - welcome to Toyota Owners Club

My first check would to inspect the underside for oil leaks around the drive shaft areas. A gear box oil change is always a good thing too. I know on my Honda it feels like a totally new car after a gearbox oil change. However not sure if you need genuine fluid for this?

If i really try and save fuel i can get 49.5mpg in my Yaris mainly city driving. If i push it hard it usually sits around 35mpg. My last car Megane 2.0 Convertible it was around 19mpg lol

The second generation Yaris was sold until 2011 and the 'auto' option was the Multi Mode Transmission (a manual transmission with an automated clutch). The CVT Multidrive was introduced in the third generation Yaris sold from 2011 onwards. So if the car is a 2010 model it should have an MMT not CVT.

70% urban driving.. c 43mpg 1.33CVT Jazz..

I'm achieving around 49mpg at the moment with my 1.33 CVT Multidrive. Mixed driving, Town, rural and motorway/dual carriageway. Climate control on "auto" and a/c permanently on. Warmer weather, last summer, around 52mpg.

I am getting an average of 39 mpg in mixed driving in my Yaris 1.33 cvt. My previous Auris 1.33 manual managed 43 mpg, A bigger, heavier car driven on the same routes. Friend of mine gets 45 mpg in his manual Yaris although everybody has a different driving style. The jazz is a bigger car/engine than the Yaris but has the same cvt, (so the Honda forums say) so I would not expect it to do much better mpg.

Just thought I'd update people on the forum in case anyone else has the same problem. So i removed the starter motor not difficult really,just remove the battery and the air intake box and the plastic tray which the battery sits on this will give you some room to get to the 2 bolts which hold the starter in place. The top part of the inter-cooler pipe needs removing,there's 2 bolts holding that coupled with two jubilee clips holding pipe at each end loosen these and remove. I also removed a nut which is part of the bracket which is part of the clutch fluid /slave cylinder pipe. You then have room to undo the 2 bolts for the starter i did this using a small extension bar on the ratchet,its a bit tight but you can just about reach them. Also remove the top 2 bolts holding the expansion tank to the front slam panel ,tuck this out of the way and the starter can be pulled up to gain access to the starter terminals on the solenoid . The plastic plug is a little tricky,you'll need a small screwdriver to push under a lug and gently prise it back and it will pull off. I Took the starter to the bench and removed the two long torx bolts followed by the two small screws holding the cap onto the body,just pull it away carefully. A good tip is to mark the body and the end cap with a felt pen so that on reassembly it goes back on in the same manner it came off.you can reverse the polarity if its turned a bit I couldn't believe all the crap that was in there,so out came the carb cleaner and i gave it a liberal soak and wiped it all clean ,this revealed the state of the brushes which had worn down by about 3 to 4 mill comparing them to the new ones.The commutator was covered in a black film so out came the sandpaper and i cleaned that up till shiny again. Now the tricky bit ,the positive brushes are soldered on to the main body so you need to cut the old brushes off, clean the area and then resolder the new ones back in place,a little daunting but can be done with a little patience. On the gear part there's a round plate which covers the gears lever this off carefully and then smear a small amount of grease onto the top of the cogs,and push the plate back into its seating. I then reassembled making sure i lined the marks up on the body and end cap,fitted every thing back into place. Fitted back into car,and now the difference this has made is amazing ,just a quick turn of the key and it starts straight away where as before it would take a few turns to start it particularly when starting from hot. So worth doing in my opinion,even if it isn't the sole problem.