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Just looking at the length of those studs (on the last photograph) for holding on the propshaft and I'll bet you five bitcoins you;ll have to drop the transfer box to get the propshaft off. I'm assuming there's a slider joint on the shaft but even so. I've dealt with some of these 4x4 set ups before and alls I;m saying is the guys that design these things never make it easy. They probably don't have big families because they'll likely do it standing up drunk in a hammock.

just to say I have fitted the c/c cover that I got from my Toyota dealer and have added a few pictures of the finished product and also the part number incase anyone wants to order it through their Toyota dealer as without the part number it is near impossible to order from toyota But anyone planing on doing it you need plenty of patiences a good sharp craft knife an a tube of super glue just in case and a bit of time

You're right, 25 Nm is given for 1.4 L engine, but for 1.6 L, correct torque is 20 Nm.

I've found cruise control is great when it is not very hilly but otherwise it can be quite aggressive when maintaining speed uphill, whereas I would allow the speed to fluctuate slightly and use the terrain to save fuel (e.g. lose a bit of speed uphill then re-gain it in the descent, if possible). It can hit the fuel consumption quite significantly. I found that if I do the initial acceleration with the needle at the top of the ECO band, then slightly (perhaps one tick mark) into the power band to get to 60 MPH makes quite a significant impact on consumption. If I go straight into the power band from a standing start, it seems to drink fuel. I also found a few other things that seem to make a huge difference: * If the target speed is 30 MPH, and it is relatively flat, then only go mid-point of the ECO band to remain in EV mode, otherwise deliberately use the engine to accelerate, then pulse the throttle to trigger EV mode once at speed * If the target speed is 40 MPH, accelerate all the way in the upper part of the ECO band, then try pulsing (sometimes EV mode will engage, but it is generally hard to get EV mode at 40 MPH if going slightly uphill) * If the target speed is 50 MPH or higher, accelerate at the top of the ECO band to about 40 MPH, increasing slightly into the power band if required at 40 MPH. Reading the road helps here; obviously climbing a hill demands more power * If accelerating to 70 MPH, accelerate to 45 MPH at the top of the ECO band then put it to the second tick mark in the power band until reaching 70 MPH. You can start lifting off slightly passing 60 MPH. When I start hearing the engine really start to work is when I know I can lift off slightly. I did 75 miles today using the above techniques, and achieved a computer-reported 64 MPG (mostly 50/60 MPH roads, with computer-reported average speed of 38 MPH).

I don't know the price difference between the two warranty options.

you can take out a Toyota extended warranty with a gap. Under the 2-for-1 offer I took out the 2 year/10000ml p.a. extended warranty for my Avensis (so up until 2019) this year for £516. This includes 2 years of Toyota Assistance that would have cost me £145 anyway.

Forgot about this thread until I was reminded this morning by another post on the subject. In December I was under the car changing the oil filter and noticed the air con drain pipe that Alan identified as the issue. I hadn't noticed any problems with dampness in my car but thought, may as well have a look at the problem. As Alan suggested I extended the pipe so cleaned the area a bit, found a piece of old fuel line in the garage that was a good fit on the pipe and pushed it on until it touched the foam insert surrounding the pipe. I then decided that the foam could benefit from being sealed as well so put a finger of silicone sealer all around the pipe and over the foam. The silicone is still flexible but will stop the foam absorbing any moisture so it seemed a good idea. Shame I only had red sealer in the garage but it really can't be seen unless you are under the car. Pictures below may help someone doing this job. The big cables you can see in the photos are the gear change cables so may not be there on CVT models. Craig.