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I can vouch for Nokian WR tyres are the BEST winter tyres u can buy :)I got all season Michelin CrossClimate on mine at the moment :) I am sure they are! Who if not Finns would know how to make good winter tyres...? :lol2:

OK, since some people here expressed interest in the process of refurbishing my 16-inch wheels, I decided to put up a little how-to, although there are many out there... So, I purchased a set of 16-inch wheels to put winter tyres on them. I was looking for a set of cheap alloys in decent shape, as I didn't want to invest too much money in them and eventually I found a set of pretty decent HRS' that had seen some curbs, but nothing major, as you can see from the pictures... So, I thought since they were in pretty good shape, I'd just buy a single spray can and fix only the edgies. Well, that was the initial plan... However, when I thought of it, I decided it was going to be impossible to find the same colour paint in a spray can, plus I didn't really like the colour anyway. So I decided I'd repaint the whole wheels. All it took were 2 400-mililiter cans of primer, 2 cans of paint (if anyone's interested, the colour is RAL9007 - graphite), 2 cans of lacquer, about 1 meter of sandpaper 320 grit, a sheet of sandpaper 1000 grit and another one of 2000 (that I didn't even use) and a small amount of putty with аluminum powder, that I had from my previous wheels refurb. Total of all this was €20! First I started sanding the clear coat of the wheels, so the primer and paint would be able to get some grip. You don't need to sand all the way down to the metal, no need to even remove the paint - just the clear coat. This is what they looked like after the sanding: Took me about 4-5 hours to sand them down. Once sanded, I mixed some putty with solidifier and apllied the mixture to the curbed edges (you can use old credit cards if you don't have other tools). Gave the putty 24 hours to cure and then sanded it with wet sandpaper 1000 grit, so it got nice and smooth. When all was done, I took the sanded wheels to a selfservice carwash and washed them thoroughly with sponge and car soap - LOTS of car soap. This is what they looked like after the carwash: Once I got home, I started the last prep before the spraying - wrapping all parts, I don't want painted, in papers: Well, we are a step away from spraying... Put all 4 wheel close to each other, but leave some room between them, so you can walk arround all of them. Spray all 4 simultaneously, otherwise you will need much more primer, paint and clear coat as you can't appraise how much have you sprayed. Spray from 20-25 cm distance. Don't try to cover everything in a single pass or you will get the primer/paint running. Take your time, spray 2-3 light coats of primer and allow 5-10 minutes between coats, then do some more heavy coats, till all two cans of primer are gone. Eventually, this is what you have to end up with: Half an hour later, primer has cured enough to spray the paint. Before you start painting, make sure it is smooth, otherwise, when painted, all imperfections will get more visible. Touch the primer and if you are not happy with its smoothness, wetsand it with 2000 grit. If you sand after the primer though, you will need to wash the wheels again, otherwise any ash or dust that remain on the wheel will make the paint peel off. Once you are happy with the smoothness, proceed with the paint. Again - don't try to spray the whole thing in a single coat or the paint will start running. Start with 2-3 light coats, then go heavier, but be careful not to get the paint running. In the process of spraying, if anything sticks on the paint - a hair, ash, fiber... DON'T TOUCH IT! No matter how tempting it is to remove it right away, don't do it, as you will ruin the whole paint which is still wet! Let it cure, then wetsand it with 2000 grit and it will be gone without a trace. When done with the paint, give it a couple of hours to cure, then apply a couple of light coats of clear coat. Again... 10 minutes brake, then a few more coats of lacquer. Here is the final resut: And this is what they look like in sunlight: Sorry for the poor quality of some of the pictures, mates, but the light in my underground garage is not very good and all I had with me while painting them, was my phone. The pictures really don't do them any justice - they look way better in person! Couldn't get a good glance of the paint, so here is a picture of my old wheels, that I refurbished with the same paint: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OJzsrQ7OYSjhkcJtjtmG-nIdCWEIL1w6-i4CZwWWhwxtEQbO6hs3BqEjhdd33pIJLQKTpM2zZb7AYQGakCt6aXV_3mkciXR3hR0mOrVPhHNHah3c2oMgQdN8vjBUATYq2F01nOheP_kdA-K-sV9AGL4QfnYTITLtekT2cFWcgpa6OhKlMzUkJ8YTLoNNGpJXEEoLEs07Lg1iWTzzZQHr_mBU6KguW_2re82xcY7oVc7h6c--gwKkr9s9Q5n3Kj-S9HxxYyLiHVOKj0MWe3s57OA_fpwqgEk-sACAwsY4hteczXf5kBficnt0XQvYgG2Qmr-QmCxCnfrVJxs4ySho_TWvlYB-iHdbzqo8OQUC1v99KY34vi_Z0lE9UseGJOzywmqr4tpGxyNn8zRnryR2ok2Qd-_Byb-36G00gSMjkdlwFeryP0mTKzeCn-wUWRAiuw6IEXjR6y4TgFjcD_u-C9h9MwKiwvpwqx7ByufDx2IX9Kmil0KC2ec-zSwPtoiAuobX4hahPdngIgLjqd-FLbIR_JOHDHx5K6J7M76g9sM=w858-h643-no

On my current test - yes, with needle above ECO bands my Auris is doing 10mpg less....EEK!PS: Hi Colin :) I'm awake! What more do you want?! "Put the pedal to the metal" in the Yaris Hybrid and you'll easily see just 8-10 mpg instantaneous if you want! LOL Putting my foot down a bit and I swear to God, I can see the AVERAGE MPG drop like seeing the petrol gauge drop like I was driving a lamboguini on full power

Have you looked at this, specially the very last post http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/90854-parking-light-bulb-replacement/ Alternatively, and I'm not being a smart alec, go to Halfords, they change bulbs for free.

Well you're right there, Konrad and even though not RAV4's, I've been running Toyota petrol VVT petrol engines in various forms and never had any trouble. Does my car (or indeed any of them) have an Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve? Possibly so but in 11 years I've never had any trouble or had any reason to go looking for it or at it. Couldn't agree more about this rubbish idea of having very small petrol engines with turbos or superchargers, they're going to mean trouble. That's why I'm so mightily ticked off about Toyota phasing out their 1.6 engines in the Auris. btw it might be my imagination but i think 2nd hand petrol engined vehicles prices are on the way up although i don't see the diesels coming down any.

Some manufacturers have not learned much about adding too much to engines. Even petrol engines are getting complicated, with turbos and electronic setups. Think Ford Ecoboost! Small 3 cylinder engines with a turbo. Nice for the first 5 years, then depending on how they are used and serviced, later life reliability could be an issue. Toyotas valvematic engines seems fine, and Mazda with the SkyActiv petrol engine so far seems okay. Honda got it right with their 1.8 engine. Their 2.2 diesel is only fitted in the larger cars due to no room for the DPF in the Civic. With emissions now looking at NOx as being more concern than CO emissions, adding the VW/Audi scandal. I see a reverse on the long term value of diesel cars. That is why I have a petrol Avensis.

Hello , name John ,( overtakinjoe / nickname ) my 2003 Yaris 152,000 Miles has been a faithfull not let me down yet car , driven badly , abused often , and best of all , ultra reliable , sob sob ! until last week when the alternator ( seized on me , first time it has let me down , its a tuff little car . Although its been pampered with love ! and new parts when required ! I've driven like a person , who enjoys driving like a madman . one litre engine ,( FLAT OUT USESLESS ???? ) just kidding !!! ] I hope to enjoy your site , good night YALL SLEEP TIGHT , OVERTAKINJOE .

Didn't watch all of the video, But yes the manual in my Auris states u have to wait for READY before u can select D...

I'm confused about this info from his channel I replied to this video explaining my confusion. Can someone clarify the point that this starting procedure is NECESSARY before driving. I usually jump in start wait a second for ready to appear, then quite simple drive away depending whether I need to defrost the windscreen or whatever. Am I doing something wrong here? Is it different for my Auris, I wouldn't of thought so?

Just ordered one of these from Ebay. Item code 301749395283 Just plugs into Auxiliary socket and tracks your vehicle via GPS. Not sure if you can track live with this one. It does have a sim and memory card on board ( has to be 2G) Silly pirice. You can get one that simply clips on the 12v and can be hidden. Will see when it gets here David

OP I'm a bit confused as to why you keep posting so may links to the same youtube channel in so many new threads?? Are you 'smart cars' by chance, trying to create a revenue stream?

Thanks. The putty I used is really strong! Once it has cured, the wheel is as good as new.

On my current test - yes, with needle above ECO bands my Auris is doing 10mpg less....EEK!PS: Hi Colin :)

Yeah, it's not helpful; At the same place at the same speed at the same pedal pressure the ICE could be doing any RPM - The computer decides depending on the temperature, the state of charge in the battery, and probably other factors. On a cold day with a low battery, the ICE might be red lining to put out enough power to charge the battery AND keep the car moving at the requested speed. On a warm day with a full battery in the same situation, it might be idling or even off as the leccy motor does all the work! (These are woeful exaggerations as it's rare you'd get such a wide gamut, but you get the point! :) The RPM in a HSD has practically no bearing on how fast you are going, and only a slight relationship with the amount of torque demanded. The Toyota hybrid systems are very unique in that although the ICE technically connected to the wheels through the power split device, it cannot send any power directly to the wheels - Any drive from the ICE to the wheels has to go through the MG1, which kinda acts like a CVT gearbox for it. The power display is just an efficiency meter - I don't know how accurate it is, but keeping it in the eco zone does seem to deliver noticeably higher MPGs than even creeping a bit into the power zone. (I do wonder if the engine goes into some sort of 'sport mode' or different valve timings when you cross over from the Eco to Power zone as I found even being at the bottom of the power zone seemed to use noticeably more fuel than being at the top of the eco zone?? Have people that actually own HSDs found that too??)

As it is still under its new car warranty, book it into a Toyota dealer and get them to solve the issue.

this maybe of interest to you http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/137269-2012-aygo-fire-speaker-question/

Benny, my reply might have been tongue in cheek bt it certainly wasn't facetious. I'm an ex-diesel mechanic, having worked both in the private garage sector and over on the dark side the road haulage industry so i certainly understand exactly how a diesel engine works. I've never owned a RAV4 but i've owned several Jeeps including the 4 litre straight 6 and the V8 petrol engined ones as well as the 3.1 and the 2.7 turbo diesels. I took it you had already looked at he performance figures and determined that the petrol engine version would be powerful enough for your needs. Actually petrol engines are, in a like for like comparison, more powerful than the diesels. Where the diesel excels is the rate at which they develpo their power (ie the amount of torque). BHP determines how fast you reach a stationary or slower moving object. Torque determines how far along the road you can shove said object. I still say that you're more likely to have ongoing maintenance issues with turbo diesels than with a normally aspirated petrol engine.

Hi, A mate at work had the timing chain and tensioner replaced at the local Toyota garage on his Yaris. The total bill was £400. Yours, Mike.