Leaderboard

Yes, the 17-inch standard does come with bigger brakes (although engine is the same as the one in the Auris, that comes standard on 15-inch wheels). I was considering 15-inch wheels for winter tyres, as I thought it should be OK, since the lower level of equipment comes on 15's, but turned out my disks were too big for a 15-inch wheel, so I bought 16's.

Before any repair work I would suggest you have the transmission control and shift units reintialised, this involves plugging the car into Toyota's diagnostic computer and having the ECU relearn the clutch bite point and shift positions after this the car will learn your driving habits/style and adapt accordingly in the vast majority of cases this fixes most issues.

Not so good is the wrong term in my opinion, its just as good on a motorway as it is in town, where as most other cars are really bad in town, so in comparison the motorway is much better than around town for them for this reason.

For the sake of anyone else who has to do this. Assuming you have managed to get the hood open. Do NOT remove old cable. 1) Undo three 10mm bolts around bonnet mechanism. 2) Remove large spring which will allow you to release nipple at end of the cable. 3) Follow the cable track by wiggling the cable and locate a clip which holds the cable onto the chassis about midway between the catch and the wing. Use a small screw driver to release this clip and you will find that you can split it to release the cable. It is tricky to see how to split the clip but it does split and does not take a lot of force. INSIDE CAR 3) The catch assembly will unclick from the car by pushing fowards parallel to the dashboard mounting plate. It is made of white tough plastic and is held in place by three clips so it is quite a shove but you are not going to break it. (You may be able to do everything without releasing the catch but I am not enough of a contortionist to manage). This should enable you to have the release catch in front of you and you can pull back the outer sheath of the cable and undo the nipple. (You may not have a nipple if this is what has broken off). As I said above I could not see how to release the cable without unclipping the mount. Anyway, you should now have the old bonnet release cable free at both ends. 4) Get the new cable and tape the catch end of the new cable onto the release handle end of the old one (i.e. the inside of the car end) using masking tape or duct tape. Do this well, have a six inch plus overlap and use lots of masking tape. Masking tape is good as it wont leave sticky residue. UNDER BONNET. 5) Use the old cable to pull through the new one. Don't over do the pulling it as you haven't clipped it inside the car and you do not want to pull it all the way through. It should come through fairly easily. In my case I pulled the cable through the wing and then pushed the catch end along the front to the catch. Do not forget to re attach the clip from (3) above. 6) Connect the nipples at catch end. 7) replace the spring 8) Do up the three bolts. INSIDE CAR 9) attach nipple and pull back outer sheath to engage this with the release catch body. 10) Clip release catch back onto dashboard chassis. 11) Test, try testing by getting someone to see that the cable is pulling back the latch before you close the bonnet. Job Done.

1 - The engine does its own this depending upon lots of different variables. A fair bit of info on here about its warm up cycles. 2 - Can't say I follow what you're saying with 'demister' Are you on about the rear headed screen, or the fast clear windscreen button? 3 - Just hit auto and then select desired temp, fan speed and temp from vents will vary until the cabin reaches the pre selected temp. 4 - Available on the gen 3 I believe, not sure about other Prii however.

What year Prius? 1. The engine noise you are talking about where it appears to be very loud while accelerating is because of the CVT transmission and the way it works. 2. When I turn the demister on my Prius the A/C switches on automatically. So I'm assuming when you turn it off from the demister the A/C is staying on. I usually turn the Demister On but then turn the A/C off immediately. 3. In the climate screen you can select where you want the air to blow and fan speed. Should also have an Auto function if this is "On" then you can indeed just raise or lower the temperature. 4. On my Gen 2 Bluetooth Music streaming is not possible. Only for Phone calls. Do you have an AUX port in the Arm rest / does your car have a cassette player? Need to know what Gen Prius it is. ( what year ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Given the age of the car, if it's never had the clutch done I think it's worth doing. Might be worth getting some quotes but make sure the garage you use actually knows how to do MMTs. Toyota will do it right but they tend to charge nearly double the going rate for things like this.

"I agree Bigger engine means need bigger brakes. So can someone confirm if the Auris Hybrid comes with bigger brakes of 17" wheels? Or in Tonino s case, it could be previous owner upgraded brakes ? Though It is still possible to fit smaller wheels if the wheels can clear the brakes (as when I had 18" wheels with bigger brakes, most 16" wheels did not clear the brakes - but certain ones did)" Correct, bigger engine needs more stopping power too. There are some technical info about the Auris hybrid on the net but can't find it right now to shall there are two types of brake system build into Auris Hybrid., Bosh or Advics. Drivetrain for all Hybrid Auris is the same however depends on the brake system type we have two different sizes brake discs on the front. 296mm and 273mm. Brake pads also different. My car parts specialist (well established parts trader) went into trouble too to find the right discs and pads first time, I had to go few times to exchange. If you look at Eurocarparts site there are two different sizes front discs and pads for our cars. And different prices obviously, mine turned to be the massive ones and more expensive Advics system. My cars is genuine fully stock with no modifications at all, previously owned by two ladies , and now I am giving it to my wife and looking to buy a bigger car for myself. Here is the job I had done.

also, as somebody that keeps cars for 5+ years I'm a fan of "keep it simple" - the 1.8 Valvematic has no turbo or intercooler to worry about failing down the line. There aren't many cars in this class that you can say that of these days (at least in the UK).

it'll be 21W rather than 21V. I agree that it's poor but sadly many car manufacturers have moved to 1 reverse & 1 rear fog (i.e. the minimum legal requirement) - I imagine that the savings made when building millions of cars is substantial & most people never think to check when buying & only notice afterwards. When we had a Focus it was notoriously bad as not only did it have only 1 reverse light but it was at the bottom of the n/s corner of the bumper - at least the T27 is reasonably central & higher up. Quite a few people on the Focus forum were modding by fitting LED & also to 2 by fitting the o/s light cluster from a lhd Focus & modifying the bulb holders. You should be able to fit an LED but afaik it wouldn't be legal (although tbh the chances of ever being picked up on it I would think are infinitesimal).

Glad u got it sorted in the end :)

Update: Hi all, just done a brake job on my new 2010 Auris hybrid and found that the cars equipped with 17" Alloys has bigger front brake discs and there might be a problem downsizing from 17" down to 15" wheels. Everyone who is about to do that need to double check that. Cars with 17" wheels front brake discs has a diameter of 296mm against the 15"wheels that got brake discs at 273mm, also the standard Auris 1.6 and 1.4 d have the smaller diameter front discs and are usually equipped with 16" wheels. I liked the car how it's drives and decided to put 4 new tyres instead of changing the whole set wheels + tyres. Now the car feels really nice , steel firm but not bad at all. Cheers.

Update: Thanks to all people replied to me. Brakes are done now, no problems so far, no warning lights and no new calliper. Both sides has to be wind clockwise as per the videos on YouTube and followed the procedures from here was a really nice and pleasant job. I don't know for what reason I couldn't do the rear driver side calliper in the first place but after wind it almost completely out, I start to wind slowly clockwise and push it a bit then it's start turning easily and went back in. The near side was good since the first attempt. Here are the procedures that helped me do the job correctly: Front brakes: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Prius-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/ Rear brakes: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Prius-Rear-Disc-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/ Very helpful info, apply to Prius and Auris Hybrids and some other Toyota Hybrids. Cheers

have you looked on https://www.toyota-tech.eu ? I would imagine that it is all there albeit some access is chargeable (but usually downloadable too so that you only need pay once).

Yes, second has less 'leverage' and will slip the clutch more , as well as giving a slower take off. That's why it can sometimes help with starting on slippery surfaces. Downsides are of course increased wear on the clutch and slower starts.

This may help to explain it: So, for example, for pressing the accelerator a quarter (25%) of its travel, you get: In normal mode, about half available power in ECO mode, about 10% of available power in PWR mode, more like 70% of available powerPlease note this is not a precise map, just a diagram to explain what's happening. As others have said, by the time your foot is down to the floor, you get full power no matter what mode you're in. The only other difference I'm aware of is that in ECO mode, it tries less hard to use the A/C or engine heat for the cabin to maintain the requested temperature.

These MMT systems have a bit of a reputation for trouble as you will see on here if you type MMT in the search box at the top of the page and loook at the results you get. There really is no quick or easy answer although I'd say if you can drive a manual box then you'll probably get best results out of the MMT by driving it manually. I had one myself on an Auris. It is definitely not like an ordinary automatic. For example if you stop at a set of traffic lights which have just changed to red and you're going to have a long wait before it's your turn again, and just sit with your foot on the brake and keep it in gear it's like sitting in a manual with your clutch pressed in all the time - same with stop and go traffic - so the clutch can get a real hard time and there's a clutch overheat light that can come on in these circumstances. Don't know if you've done any web search, there's tons of articles about them eg http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/toyota-multi-mode-transmission-design-and-function http://www.blue-print.com/mmt/INF134_MMT_Clutch_Kit%20ADT330265_266_274.pdf

The MMT can be quite jerky, but I suspect MEP's on the right track and that the clutch needs checking; The MMT is not a 'proper' automatic - It's actually just a manual but the gears and clutch are computer controlled, so there is still a clutch plate in there that will wear out over time. If that checks out, it may just be the MMT computer needs resetting. I was under the impression that you could just do this by disconnecting the battery for a while, but some have said that only Toyota can do it properly.

Sounds like it might be a heavily worn clutch potentially. I'm sure someone else will be along with more advise in a bit as I'm more savy with the Fiat Dualogic system, which is very similar but different.

Well Since got 100 miles fuel left to play with.... Thought I put my foot down on the bypass to see what it could do.... Leaving round about.... onto bypass of 70mph... foot (i would say) 9/10th on the floor of the gas pedal... Needle hits 9/10th of the PWR bands... Car eager to accelerate... Engine noise becoming more and more apparent... I spot a newish fiesta in sight....TARGET ACQUIRED No chance! :( :laughing:

V5 log book sent off at last today Have decided AGAINST buying a service plan, all I get is: 1. Potential saving on future increased service prices 2. Potential saving if VAT went up 3. A few quids saving over a fixed service costs 4. 1/2 price MOT Will just put private plate on, and its done for now..... ...after winter more TLC

A little TLC for my Auris.... ZYMOL leather cleaner :) (Will use Gliptone when got time!) BEFORE AFTER

Hi, Sounds like we've got the same car! I've also got a T-reg SE with the same sidelights and dipped bulbs and sony stereo! Is yours silver by any chance? As for your questions, I don't know about the key in the door physically (damaged lock?). As for the remote locking, a few weeks ago I was fudging around trying to fit an LED interior bulb (as you were!) when I managed to make it stop working, along with the remote locking and dashboard clock. It turns out these three share one fuse and in trying to fit the bulb I had shorted it to the metal of the roof and shorted it, blowing the fuse. The fuse in question is in the under-bonnet fuse box to the right hand side of the battery. From memory the fusebox 'map' is on the underside of the lid and this one is marked 'DOME' and is a brown 7.5A blade fuse. Hope this helps! Richard :)