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The spanner light has multiple functions 1 Service due 2 Oil level 3 DPF blockage ( if there is not a separate DPF light ) If the light is coming back on after being reset either the oil level is over/under filled, the DPF is clogging of the oil sensor is faulty. Check your levels and top up if required, if the level is over full it may suggest the DPF is clogged and the car if failing regenerations and washing the bores with unburnt fuel which is raising the oil level in the sump if this is happening drain and replace the oil & filter and get the DPF regenerated ASAP otherwise engine damage may occur. Also make sure the car has had the correct C2 specification ( low ash ) either 0W30 ( preferred ) or 5W30 oil used, the wrong oil will cause premature DPF clogging.

Hello and welcome to the board. I have not received a printed copy of the User manuals for the car and the Touch 2 system, however, the dealer gave me copies of both books on CD's. You can also obtain a copy of them when you register on My Toyota portal: Here are links from MyToyota to the PDF manuals: Auris HYBRID Owner Auris HYBRID Navigation

It should also show up on your MyToyota web page But it looks like MrT has been enhancing the online experience again and it doesn't seem to be working anymore :( https://www.toyota.co.uk/tme#/my-toyota/

Will be trying to fit some leds on my auris 2014, and see the difference between this leds vs hid that i currently using

Thank you, Richard. You just 'saved my bacon' ;-). I own an Avensis from year 2000. I changed the shocks both in the front and back, and I probably shorted the wires for the interior lights in the back (it is a hatch back) - with the same result. Your memory was 100% correct.

For the sake of anyone else who has to do this. Assuming you have managed to get the hood open. Do NOT remove old cable. 1) Undo three 10mm bolts around bonnet mechanism. 2) Remove large spring which will allow you to release nipple at end of the cable. 3) Follow the cable track by wiggling the cable and locate a clip which holds the cable onto the chassis about midway between the catch and the wing. Use a small screw driver to release this clip and you will find that you can split it to release the cable. It is tricky to see how to split the clip but it does split and does not take a lot of force. INSIDE CAR 3) The catch assembly will unclick from the car by pushing fowards parallel to the dashboard mounting plate. It is made of white tough plastic and is held in place by three clips so it is quite a shove but you are not going to break it. (You may be able to do everything without releasing the catch but I am not enough of a contortionist to manage). This should enable you to have the release catch in front of you and you can pull back the outer sheath of the cable and undo the nipple. (You may not have a nipple if this is what has broken off). As I said above I could not see how to release the cable without unclipping the mount. Anyway, you should now have the old bonnet release cable free at both ends. 4) Get the new cable and tape the catch end of the new cable onto the release handle end of the old one (i.e. the inside of the car end) using masking tape or duct tape. Do this well, have a six inch plus overlap and use lots of masking tape. Masking tape is good as it wont leave sticky residue. UNDER BONNET. 5) Use the old cable to pull through the new one. Don't over do the pulling it as you haven't clipped it inside the car and you do not want to pull it all the way through. It should come through fairly easily. In my case I pulled the cable through the wing and then pushed the catch end along the front to the catch. Do not forget to re attach the clip from (3) above. 6) Connect the nipples at catch end. 7) replace the spring 8) Do up the three bolts. INSIDE CAR 9) attach nipple and pull back outer sheath to engage this with the release catch body. 10) Clip release catch back onto dashboard chassis. 11) Test, try testing by getting someone to see that the cable is pulling back the latch before you close the bonnet. Job Done.

Just an update for anyone interested. Took the Yaris to the local dealers, and they replaced the SD card, and updated the firmware. Result! Can now switch in and out of the satnav while on the move. Top marks to the local dealership.

" If you're reversing in a tight space these things start beeping at about the right time but they go into panic mode way too early." Better than too late! :P These are all aids - they are not designed to replace looking around/over your shoulder but as supplements. With experience you get to know at roughly what distances the different sound rapidities are invoked by the sensors.

Did you ever get this repaired Steve as it sounds the same as my T180. Just need to know what the resolution was. Cheers, Mike