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You'll be pleased to know you're better off not being in the tank of a Volvo :) Why not, it was the speed limit and is a fast flowing junction designed to be driven at that speed (although I did crawl through it at only 15MPH in traffic last night). And you were there? I have plenty of data based upon what Pete has said above. The fact that there were multiple impacts rather than the car stopping dead after one single impact demonstrates that each impact were not enough to activate the SRS system. Each impact would have in turn removed a % of the kinetic energy within the vehicle. As such, each were not enough to activate the SRS system. If any single impact was a sever enough deceleration then the SRS would have activated at the required point, but then possibly (as mentioned above by Pete) resulted in no SRS system being available to trigger should there have been a subsequent impact that was greater than SRS activation threshold. SRS systems do not (and should not) go off randomly for any odd bump. Any odd bump what, like flattening a traffic light pole, ripping out three sections of metal railing embedded on concrete and severely bending a couple more? Data is only data if it is actual and recorded and any conclusion(s) can only be based on such evidence, not anecdotal and presumptive statements. Your opinion of the results are just that, an opinion the same as mine. Any assertions otherwise prove nothing. Your trouble is that you believe the account of the accident as if it were gospel whereas I dont in fact I think parts of it are risible. Flattening a pole, and ripping out railings are exactly the reason the SRS didn't deploy, they gave and removed kinetic energy rather than the cars body and the SRS system having to. Everything Pete hit was deformable and removed substantial kinetic energy from the car, preventing Pete's body from being subject to forces which could cause injury or death. If he'd hit a tree at the same speed however the story would be different as a tree generally doesn't deform. Your trouble is you seem to think that some obviously don't know what they're talking about when in fact they do. I deal with this sort of thing day in day out, with vehicle crash signatures etc, using it to successfully apportion liability and injury levels etc. You on the other hand seem to be quite happy sitting behind a keyboard telling people that they're either wrong and / or lying while at the same time demonstrating you have a very limited knowledge in the subject. I'm going to leave this here now, and at the least we'll just have to agree to disagree.

Hi everyone! I'm new to the TOC forums but have had my Iq for a year now. His name is Nigel, an Iq1 1.0l. Now I guess he's not the obvious choice of commuter but we've racked up 30k miles this year and we have just gone through our 80k mile marker. He's been absolutely faultless over that time being serviced every 10k miles, and new pads, discs and tyres all round. Now that we are well out of the warranty period, I aim to do all the servicing myself with OEM parts as the plan is to run him and see how long he lasts. I'm not sure what the record is for high mileage Iqs but we'll see where we are in a couple of years! On a 320 mile trip on Friday he returned 67mpg (fill to top up, not what the computer says) so he's getting better with age!

Holy thread revival, Batman :o

Until cruise-controls can assess what's in front of the car they'll never be as economical as a good driver; They just lock the car at a certain speed, so if they hit an incline they aren't prepared for it and tend to lose momentum and then waste energy trying to regain it. On a flat they're hard to beat tho' ;)

Hi all, I have put a few threads on here recently concerning the problem I have been having turning on the ignition in my Rav4.1. The problem being a worn or broken Ignition barrel. This week I booked it into the local Toyota dealers after they had ordered me a new Ignition Barrel only to find out when I got there that the barrel they ordered was for a model without the immobiliser. So they told me a new Ignition switch/barrel for my car would cost in the region of £350 to £400 fitted. On the way home I called into an Auto Locksmith called Complete Security in Holbury near Southampton where they told me they could recondition the existing ignition barrel. I removed the barrel yesterday and took it to them in my Wife"s Smart car and today they rang to tell me the job was done. I went to collect it and came home and fitted it to the Rav....PERFECT..... All the keys work perfectly. And how much did it cost????? £20... Yes, just twenty quid, so now I have the original keys which fit the door and start the car PERFECTLY. In my book that makes perfect sense. I saved over £300 cheers

oh yes, and the limit there is 40

Yes, gone. Thanks for asking.

I think Jon's right - I was there and I can tell you I'm sure the car did the right thing and it was unlikely to be a fault. The insurance guys would only care if I'd been injured and there was evidence to suggest the airbags would have helped (and Jon's in the insurance business so probably has a better idea on this than me). I'm sure (as much as I can be) if I'd hit a bigger car full square head on or something else that stopped me dead in one go they'd have fired.

Hi, Welcome to the club... Enjoy

Different makes of CD-RW won't change anything I'm afraid. The problem is down to the way CD-RW's work and primarily the huge difference in reflectivity compared to standard discs. CDR's should be playable however, although they must be burnt as an 'audio disc' and not as a 'data' disc. Also, contrary to popular belief, burning at slower speeds can give better results.

So just a very quick revival and update! Nigel has just passed 93k miles with nothing more than a headlight and service. I fill him up about 3 times a week and get between 350 and 400 miles from a tank :) although it's a game of roulette sometimes when the fuel light comes on with a predicted 100 miles left in the tank! Had 3 small bails of hay in with the seats down and has been handling the muddy tracks with aplomb recently with all the rain; the Traction control works very well! Looking forward to seeing 100k come up on the clock!

You can get better economy than the cruise control can, lift off the gas a bit going uphill and let it roll on down hills. I've had just over 500 miles from mine driving nicely, although my commute to work is quiet roads in the middle of the night and I'm not usually in a hurry. To do an accurate mpg calculation brim your tank at a garage (on level ground) and set your trip meter miles, then use that tank full, then brim it again (on level ground). See how many litres it takes to fill, divide by 4.54 to convert to gallons, and divide your travelled miles by your gallons. My trip meter is about 5% high, as were two previously owned Toyota autos, but the manual T25 was spot on.

Have bought nearly all bits for both Ravs from Shy....Parts King, but the differential for same part number ex "Jap Parts" was really too much to ignore, Geoff. Parts King took it well though....he sent me a wee dolly with a sewing kit in it....lots of needles, but no thread. Makes a heckya difference to wifes wee Rav rear door opening though. LOYAL TO KINGO KEV (USUALLY....)