Leaderboard

I have the x shift and use the flappy paddles on the wheel in manual mode most of the time. I find if I release the accelerator just before a change the change is much less jerky. In fact it’s not jerky at all. If I drive it in E mode from start it changes far too soon and in the lower gears from 1-3 it’s quite a jerky auto shift. But E is great in traffic.

Hi All, We decided to service our Avensis ourselves yesterday, first diy service since ownership in 2015, and our first diY DIESEL service ever!!! The first 2 years were serviced by the main dealer due to the extended warranty we purchased, but at 260.00 plus for this years service, and no warranty remaining, i thought lets give it a bash. I purchased all the service parts from the main dealer by the way at a cost of 85.00 or there abouts. It was an experience ill never forget, and bad luck seemed to prevail lol. For example, at the start, opened my drivers door to remove keys and i knocked the drivers on the jack, small dingy, partner wasnt happy, we worked on this one togeather btw! For some odd reason the front number plate fell to one side, plastic bolt decided to go, strange! And at the end of the service i dropped my oil drip container and oil went everywhere, by then id had enough, and then we noticed the passenger side mirror indicator lens was smashed, NIGHTMARE, no idea how or when it happened, does ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THESE GO FOR AT THE DEALERS? My partners impatient for after the bank holiday to ring them, he is very particular about his vehicle, we assume it was the neighbours kids and their footy ball !!! Anyway, process: We already had the vehicle on axles btw since we had just replaced the front discs and pads (see my last thread), okay, so, poured in some Wynns engine flush, ran engine till warm, removed bottom covers ( only window for sump area and not for oil filter on our 2010 model so had to remove whole tray, not fun! ), removed sump plug and drained oil ( very messy job and intend never to diy that again), removed oil filter ( used a big shifting spanner for this off a neighbour luckily, we assumed it’d be hand tight on and off, wasnt an easy job ), refit sump plug, assembled oil filter with new filter remembering to oil new seals and refit, didnt change air filter as we have a k&n panel filter, then went about the diesel filter which Toyota told us is scheduled for this years service ( removed air box complete, 2 bolts, 2 or 3 electical connectors, and 3 or 4 pipes later it was off, assembled new diesel filter, poured disel from old filter to new, wiped diesel on rubber seals, wasnt fun at all doing all this, put everything back including air filter housing, primed by pumping that top black thingy on top of diesel filter unit ), poured in new engine oil....this bits frustrating as TOYOTA SOLD US A 5L BOTTLE and it drank the lot, however after checking the dip stick we’re just ABOVE THE MINIMUM MARKER, how much oil does this vehicle take??? And how much more do we need??? AAGHHHH! Toyota should have known and sold us more if need be, wont be using the car until after the bank hols to get more oil and get it sorted. Moving on....we started the car, and away she started, no cut outs but the eml came on and went off after awhile, removed axles, job done. Finally finished by replacing the cabin filter with a new one. So that is my story, othe than needed more oil, it took us in all, from 11.30am till 12.30am to fit new front discs and pads and a service with a few half brakes in between, we didnt enjoy it, and hope never to diy it again, it’ll be garage services from now on in the future, unlike my likkle Aygo, thats an easy peasy one for me lol. Hope this thread will help somebody someday, AND please do let me know about a. The wing mirror lens replacement b. My oil top up issue if anybody is kind enough to do so, thank you. Sammy

My x shift likes to stay in a lower gear going up hills like 3rd or 4th depending on the gradient but she changes up as soon as she can. I override it sometimes going downhill as I find that engine braking is better than using the brakes for speed control.

The new air con gas, HFO-1234yf, for EU markets, has to be used in new cars manufactured from 1st January 2017. Some manufacturers began using the new gas fro 2014 - both our 2015 i20 and our 2016 Aygo have the new gas. Back in 2014, because the new gas wasn't as widely available, re-gassing using the new gas could cost over £200. However, prices have dropped and when we had the 3 year service on our i20 at the end of June, a re-gas and clean cost £80 with a two year guarantee at our Hyundai dealer.

sorry just realised i had comments i hadn't replied to, i got 20000 miles from the set of front pads and there was about 3mm left when i replaced them. i had watched videos on you tube but they were older models and wasn't convinced the calipers would be the same, turns out they were. calipers just pushed back in as alan333 and x5ken said. thanks for replies Ross

Yours will have filter just behind the the intake, remove the outer cover pull the filter off and blow out any accumulated debris