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The squeal is likely to be either: - one of the belts slipping as the belt is loose - which means it requires retensioning. - or the belt tensioning pulley has seized and the belt is slipping on it -or one of the components driven by the belt - water pump, alternator - has a failing bearing causing the belt to slip (If this was the case, you would have failing electrical systems or an overheating engine. My at a distance guess is it's the first item. A new belt stretches a bit when first used.

Hi Jane, cost was around £250 but the Estima is a big car,

I had my Estima wax oiled and very pleased with the job. They removed under body trims and masked brake components and cleaned and sprayed all cavities. If all that work is done for £80 that's a good price. Mine being a bigger car was more expensive,

Try using a water spray (definitely not WD40) on each belt to try and identify which one's causing the problem. The noise will disappear on hitting the offending belt and water will do no harm.

This job is best done using a pit or ramp - it's not at all easy if you use axle stands - it's necessary to get the car a fair way off the ground. Slacken off the adjustment at the handbrake. With the rear wheels removed - remove the brake callipers, calliper brackets and brake discs. Unclip each cable from the brake shoe lever and remove the small bolts that secure the cables to the backplates. There are several clips which fix the cables to the floor / chassis - remove these. Unfortunately the cables are clipped above the fuel tank so the fuel tank needs to be dropped for access - this in turn requires the propshaft and exhaust to be removed!! Disconnect the cables from the balance rod. Replace the cables - adjust the handbrake shoes and finally adjust the system at the handbrake. You may need to readjust after a few weeks after the cable has stretched. Dropping the fuel tank is no fun and there is potential for damaging fuel lines, brake lines, tank straps etc etc. There are a few shortcuts that have been used to avoid dropping the tank. One of the most common is to tug the cables too and fro to break the clips above the tank or use a thin flat bar to dislodge the clips. Use the old cable (cut it off just beyond the tank) to pull through the new cable. Often a length of rubber hose is slipped over the cable to prevent chafing and / or the cable drumming against the floor. It's always a bad idea to replace just one handbrake cable on an older car. On a Rav - it's a no brainer given the effort involved in dropping the fuel tank etc. Often the new cable will run a lot easier than an old cable and it may be difficult to achieve an acceptable brake balance (potential MOT fail)

Now that's a simple explanation that the manual could have used! Thank you Aaron....

EV City just changes the threshold for when the ICE engages, it doesn't affect throttle response beyond that. Eco mode changes throttle response throughout the entire range of travel (more or less). You can have Eco + EV City on at the same time.

The fuel filler pipe rotted on mine and the diesel tank straps that hold the tank in position and like i said eventually the chassis. My mechanic made me new straps and a filler pipe without the need to buy the genuine article. Just by using his head , saving me a fair few quid. Ur mechanic will keep u right about corrosion protection and everything else. My wifes 03 Rav is much cleaner underneath than my 04 was when i had it, i have a notion mine was at the beach a lot. Ur,s will be grand with a bit of care and attention, and i think its gonna get lot's of that.

I actually saw the Aqua paint sample in a Toyota showroom after seeing the real car, and in the artificial light it looked exactly like I'd expected it to: a pleasant, tasteful bluey-green. It's what happens when the sun shines on it that I have a problem with! Maybe in your part of the world that's less of a problem. 😄 I've found Hypersonic Red to be the opposite - it's a pretty dull and boring dark red on a cloudy day, but when the sun's out it turns into a rather appealing multi-hued Candy Apple pearl. At least, when it's not covered in grime, anyway.

Honda m8...... 140mph (but backwards) 😵 2sav

Hi Recall done took 1 1/2 hours including washing, not to bad !

Oh the issues with salesmen not least turning up to buy a new car with my wife (who was a driving instructor) and the number of salesmen that lost a sale due to them insisting on dealing with me! My current Auris was bought just over 12 months ago when I saw it at a local garage. As it was an Icon I called a garage at Evans Halshaw in Walsall who had an Excel (same age and mileage) so went down to Walsall after confirming it was unmarked on the phone and it was a right bag of s**t. Supposedly 12,000 miles on the clock with drivers door sill worn down to base coat, tyres replaced with cheap budget ones and general wear and tear on interior indicating it had been used a lot more than it should have been plus all 4 wheels needed a refurb. Salesman promised he would get everything fixed ha ha so returned and bought my current Icon with no hassle. Also my wifes current Yaris was a deal done on the phone with Listers Toyota of Boston which was an absolute breeze and was the least stressful part ex I've ever had (and when we got there they actually spoke to her rather than me :))

Thanks "FastBob", much appreciated. And yes, it is quite a rare and well kept specimen! Whoever had it before me certainly looked after it! I did have one before for nearly 15 years and that went was the Indicator Stalk! Sadly one day it just gave up and it would have proved uneconomical to repair. It was a 1998 (S). See below in its prime! As to the Transmission Type, not a clue I'm afraid. All I know is that it is a 1.8vvt-i Engine and the car is a 2001 (Y). I got the ATF Spec off Opie Oils, Fuchs ATF4400 being one of the choices and seeing as I have used Fuchs (ATF4134 ) in my CLK320 and it did the job, I chose that. I suppose it will be best to get the Filter from Toyota, unless someone can give me a pointer as to where else to get one... Anyway, thanks again. Regards, Bill.

A professional application of Waxoyl is probably your best bet for that.

Hi guys apologies for my pics, i painted my calipers silver some time ago whilst the discs were horrid and rusty, hence 1 pic of a before, and after i recently changed all 4 discs and pads a few days ago, i painted them again to refresh. Did a trip up the M1 to London today, 250 miler there n back, i assume the brakes are now bedded in, drove like a dream, no issues and sharp braking as it should be! We have an mot booked in next week which we always dread lol, however all seems in tip top shape, its just with the new changes come in, we dont know what to expect!!!