Leaderboard

Hello everbody, to this great place, glad to be part of this great forum, and learn much about my Toyota car 😉 and share my experience.

https://www.indra.co.uk/ The above company is in Malvern. I get the impression they experiment with all sorts of EV vehicles, and might be able to advise on what could get damaged through water ingress, and if it could be repaired, as opposed to replaced as per the Toyota quote. I was thinking along the lines of: how is the battery damaged? Is it just corrosion that could be cleaned off, leaving the battery serviceable? The dealer has to guarantee the repair, so replacement of parts, if they are in doubt, removes some of their risks. But you then get suffer a big bill that has covered any 'worst case' that they might come across. I would have thought Toyota would design the battery so that it would survive a water leak into the boot, as I would expect the connectors to be at the upper part of the module (I've never studied one close up though!). According to this site:- https://www.toyota.co.uk/hybrid/hybrid-faq/batteries the new battery, unfitted, is from £1140 including VAT, There is a hefty rebate given by Toyota on return of the old battery, I imagine the price given in the link included that, I wonder if your quote does? This Northampton company might also be able to give some advice on likely costs and repairs, as hybrid batteries are their speciality:- http://www.hybridbatterysolutions.co.uk/ I have no personal experience of any these companies, I should add.

here is a company breaking an auris hybrid give them a try they may have a battery for you i know the link is for the invertor but you will have the contact number and car ref number https://www.car-transplants.co.uk/parts-breaking/details/toyota-auris-hybrid-2010-to-2012-high-voltage-inverter-cooling/1/149494

Yes my daughters Yaris booked in next week, half an hour job apparently

What determines it is what the original customer specified...there are more versions than you can shake a stick at,...but it's odds on that the type you want IS out there somewhere...all you gotta do is find one. My guess would be that any half decent importer would be able to locate what you want through his contacts.

As typical I got the ecu letter in December 2 months after I changed cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Estima has come in many variations over the years. Trim levels vary so much because of dealer and customer options it is almost impossible to specify your exact requirements this way. Best option is to contact sellers to see what stock they have or can obtain. The Aeras version has exterior body skirts, different bumpers and, possibly, different patterned interior trim. Top spec is the G edition - though as stated before, the original purchaser may have opted for less optional extras than somebody purchasing an X edition.

Water leaks don't exactly inspire confidence, but I've had my 2009 Auris for 5 years now, and despite the water leak, it's been one of the most trouble-free cars I've ever owned. I wish some of the faults I've had with other makes of car could have been fixed with a bit of silicone..

Update to this thread, I ordered the i1905 on Friday and received it this morning two garages equipment could not read any code. After reading the instructions went down to my local garage plugged the device into car and going then choose Toyota also covers Lexus then choose Diagnose and got the reading up o2 sensor bank one. Well pleased with the code reader very good quality. Sensor on order. I think the service from diagnostic-world.com is really good.

there is no point on a naturally aspirated engine.

The Takata recalls started back in 2013 and at that point all the manufacturers / regulators knew was that the issue affected older cars from around year 2000 onwards and that cars in hot humid countries where more likely to be affected nobody knew the cause. So whilst a cause, satisfactory fix was found, tested and approved by all the relevant regulators the manufacturers / regulators agreed the safest plan of action was to call back the oldest and most humid country cars straight away, all these cars had a new (but same as the original) inflator fitted making the cars as safe as possible until a suitable fix was found. Only in the last 12-18 months has an acceptable fix been found and approved. Now all the cars receiving the first replacement inflators are now being called back along with newer cars that have the potential to be affected so they can have the final fix inflators installed. Just using Mk3 Yaris as an example the factory switched to the new airbag type from 03/2017 production we have already been replacing inflators in cars built pre 2015 and as people are seeing above have now included the last of the Mk3 Yaris built upto 03/2017. The scope of this recall is immense and still has the potential to expand further, see https://www.nhtsa.gov/equipment/takata-recall-spotlight which contains loads of useful info including an agreed timeline. The UK along with most of Europe are Zone B Mediterranean countries are zone A and Nordic countries are zone C, we have just entered phase 4/5 and phase 5/5 starts at the end of this year.

Just been through the same thing. 122k and the engine starts mixing coolant and oil. I have ended up with a replacement engine from a 2009. The people who did mine said the only way to know which engine fits is by the BHP output as they are all(non Dcat) called 2AD FTV. The ECU doesn't match and I think (may be wrong) after 2009 there was the addition of a DPF. New engine for mine cost 1400 with a new clutch. Fitted. You have to deal in the murky world of breakers. Is it running at the moment, yes. Will the problem surface again,who knows. Apart from the engine the car is tidy so seemed a waste not to get it done. Still feels a big gamble. If I had known about the engine issues would I have purchased the car ...... Definitely not.