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they are mandated by law above a certain amount of lumen output.

i would have thought theoretically so but it would cost thousands of euros & it may also require fitting headlight washers & auto levelling to be road legal. It's just not cost effective.

Hi, Well can only refer to my later model and the Haynes manual is a little misleading as it say " remove all traces of gasket material and sealant" yet on reassembly it only refers to Sealant. If its a steel sump it says RTV sealant but if its an alloy sump then use Toyotas sealant. It also says check the steel sump flange on a flat surface for distortion, a common cause of leaks, if so straighten . In another later manual with exploded diagrams it does not show any cork gasket, again just sealant, pic attached. Would think a call to your local Mr T will soon tell you if your model needs a cork type gasket or just sealant.

Very nice, and I do like the dash layout 😄

Well here's one for you all to ponder. I've just come in from working on the car - been off ill for a bit so this is the first day I've felt well enough to do anything - and I've FINALLY managed to get the !Removed! flywheel off. Which was a short lived joy because now I find out what's been leaking oil. Firstly, the rear crankshaft oil seal should be replaced just because it's been a hassle to drop the gearbox for the second time. So that's a given. But the oil leak itself is coming from the oil sump pan, so I'll have to remove the bottom of the bell housing to get the pan off. The question though is do these oil sump pans have a proper gasket or do they use a silicone type of sealant to seal it? I haven't taken the pan off until I find that out, but basically the question is: is it a proper repair to use a silicone sealant on the sump pan or do I go to Mr.Toyota and buy a proper oil sump pan seal?

The link was intended as useful info only, i didn't say its contents directly relates to the UK I included it to give an idea as to the scope of the work required and because the DVSA ( UK regulator ) has nothing available. Sorry if i've caused confusion.

Thats because there is currently insufficient stock of inflators available, Toyota are obliged to inform everyone affected by the recall within 6 weeks of the DVSA announcing the recall however they have to manage stock supply and work load into dealers, so they stagger the letters some people have invites to contact the dealers others have notifications of intent and follow up.

Maybe next time you will be a bit braver with pedal lol There are times I can resist in pulling away quickly from the lights then settle back to fuel saving driving Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with everything you have said, except for the quote above. Our Yaris Hybrid does not feel a little sluggish in the slightest. The engine kicks in when it is needed and it often does. Ours is very very very quick off the line, and overtaking is easy and confident. Our Hybrid is one of the easiest overtakers we've ever owned. Not sluggish in the slightest. Mick.

I think this is actually totally relevant Gez as the creak is back today, (although a lot quieter), I am just going to live with it, with fan on I can't hear it, and I don't have ramps or the inclination to be lying on ground in winter trying to sort it, glad to know it's a common annoyance! Dave

Your DPF is massively clogged, after a regen the PM Accumulation ratio should be 0% yours is 510%. it would appear your attempted regen was not successful, Toyota say: PERFORM PM FORCED REGENERATION Clear the DTC and Exhaust Fuel Addition FB value by disconnecting the cable from the negative (-) battery terminal or removing the EFI MAIN No. 2 fuse for 1 minute or more. Tech Tips The accumulated PM volume stored in the ECM cannot be initialized using the intelligent tester. To perform PM forced regeneration, it is necessary to perform initialization of the accumulated PM volume stored in the ECM. Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3. Start the engine and drive the vehicle until the engine coolant temperature reaches 60°C (140°F) or more. Move the shift lever to N and set the parking brake. Turn the tester on. Enter the following menus: Powertrain / Engine and ECT / Active Test / Activate the DPF Rejuvenate (PM) / Data List / PM Accumulation Ratio. Perform the Active Test while the vehicle is driven at a constant vehicle speed within 50 to 100 km/h (31 to 62 mph) (transmission in 3rd gear) for more than 15 minutes. Tech Tips While the "Activate the DPF Rejuvenate (PM)" Active Test is being performed, the accelerator opening angle should be kept as constant as possible. When you start driving, "DPNR/DPF Status Reju (PM)" on the Data List displays "Compl". However, continue to drive the vehicle until "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%. Once "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%, regeneration is complete. Continue to drive the vehicle until "PM Accumulation Ratio" drops to 0%. CAUTION: Be aware of excessive heat on and around the exhaust pipes during PM forced regeneration. Note If PM forced regeneration stops, repair the malfunction that caused it to stop, and perform it again to complete the operation. Tech Tips PM forced regeneration completes in 15 to 40 minutes. PM forced regeneration time changes depending on PM Accumulation Ratio and driving conditions. A fail-safe stops PM forced regeneration if Catalyst Differential Press increases too much during regeneration Exhaust Temperature B1S3 becomes 500°C (932°F) or more within 20 minutes of PM forced regeneration start. PM forced regeneration will be stopped if the accelerator pedal is depressed during regeneration. In this case, PM forced regeneration needs to be performed again. Even if PM forced regeneration stops while it is occurring, the intelligent tester displays Compl (complete) for DPNR/DPF Status Reju (PM).