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OK, it is 1 point of reference & therefore suspect but European deliveries/sales of RAV4 were up 41% in June 2019 over 2018 http://carsalesbase.com/european-car-sales-analysis-june-2019-models/#more-54243. If it is a trend you can understand why lead times are stretching ...

Just got told how to disable the alarm for the seat-belts. Ofcourse you should allways wear the seatbelt when driving, but on occasions it seems terribly annoying This is how you do it - sorry for my bad translation Turn power on and set counter to "ODO" Turn power off Turn power on, within 5 seconds, press and hold the trip-reset button After 10 seconds, fasten the seatbelt Release the trip-reset button .. the display should now change to "B-off", turn power off and release the seatbelt. The alarm is now disabled. To enable it again, same sequence but push the trip button once again with the seatbelt fastened. The display shows B-on. (thanks for the update, Nick)

Automotive News Europe produced this supplier breakdown for some of the major components in some current popular cars. It's not a comprehensive list, but still...... https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/crain/ane_8394843321MIRSB_supp/index.php#/1

It's definitely a smoother system and I don't get the kind of overshoot and undershoot with hills that I used to with my previous cars. I've driven my commute on cruise control a lot of times now and it's very smooth. It will sometimes let the car toddle along at a couple of mph below what is set and I think that's an efficiency thing. It's in situations where I'd know to hold the accelerator down a bit longer because of a slight rise in the road but it gets 'caught out' and decides it's not worth expending the energy just for a couple of mph. Also on a couple of occasions it's chosen to use actual engine braking rather than let the speed go a couple of mph above the limit but it was only for half a second and most of the time it doesn't need to. As for efficiency cost I think you'd be lucky to tell the difference. At the very most it might 5% but frankly I think normal variation due to weather and traffic conditions probably drowns out the CC cost. It's certainly a small enough 'cost' that the pleasure of letting something else deal with speed control makes it worth it 🙂 But FYI: My recent fuel economy figures have all been with little to no CC use. I'm intending to run with CC as much as possible on my next tank (September) so that'll be interesting.

Copied from the topic I linked to previously: "1.6 1WW & 2.0 2WW BMW diesel engines are up to 12 month / 12500 miles but they are fitted with software and sensors that monitor driving habits and ash content in the engine oil and can drop the schedule as low as 5000 miles if required." If the service software/sensors indicated a service was due, this would probably explain why the first service was carried out at 10 months. The second service would be due when either of the following occurs first: 1). 12 months after the first service, or 2). 12,500 miles have been covered since the first service, or 3). the service software/sensors indicate a service is due.

Many thanks, you are right 👍the two sizes I got were for the 2.0 & 2.2!! so T150 & T180 same size, sorted!

I believe 320mm discs. Set of discs and pads (Mintex or Textar or Pagid -all basically the same company and OE on your car) about £100.

Depends what you mean by very rusty underneath. The underside of many older Rav's often look bad but this is often due to rust on suspension parts which are heavy gauge metal and won't come to much harm if high pressure water jetted from time to time. Rust in floor panels etc is more serious and needs cleaning off and treating before applying rustproofing. Professional application is always better than DIY attempts unless you've got access to a lift, steam cleaner and compressed air - and it's an unpleasant and dirty job. The choice of rustproofing compound is secondary to the degree of preparation and method of application. There are many rustproofing centres in the UK and rustproofing is also carried out by many specialists in classic cars. A full rustproofing service would comprise an initial inspection - removal of plastic guards etc - a steam clean to remove loose rust, flaking paint and unsound sealant - rust treatment of identified areas - masking off of exhaust, rubber parts etc - cavity wax injection and underside application of rustproofing compound. Ballpark of £500 for the above but obviously less if you just wanted the underside treated. An inspection every couple of years is recommended when any identified areas can be touched in. There are three areas on the underside of the 4.2 which are troublesome in respect of rust : - rear brake backplates can rot away and these are an eye watering £600+ each plus labour to replace (dealer only parts!). It's acceptable to remove corroded disc shields but significant corrosion of the main backplate is an MOT fail. It's worth cleaning and treating the backplates before they get too bad. - the fuel filler pipe is behind a plastic shield which gets filled with mud which eventually leads to corrosion failure of the fuel pipe. Remove the guard, clean off, treat rust and apply rustproofing. - the solid brake pipes running the length of the car and which connect to the flexibles for the RH and LH rear brakes are prone to corrosion of the last few inches where there is no protective plastic coating. This is a favourite MOT failure. It's sometimes possible to join in a new section of pipe - otherwise the fuel tank needs to be lowered to replace the pipe! Clean and rustproof the unprotected sections of brake pipe (a liberal coating of heavy grease is fine).

Think of it this way. There are several hundred thousand parts lines held in stock in the UK and Belgium. Multiply those numbers of lines Worldwide and you can understand that most of those are made by outside suppliers making them on behalf of Toyota. Those other manufacturers will also be making parts for Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi and any number of other car manufacturers. From time to time there will be occasions when those suppliers are unable to meet demand, maybe through planned shut downs, holiday periods, shortage of raw materials or any number of unplanned delays. Parts demands are very carefully monitored, if as the Fox suggests, this part fails regularly, then you can be assured Toyota will make them to supply demand, after all, they make money from supplying goods, they make nothing if they cannot get hold of those parts I am sure this is one of those temporary glitches we get from time to time, Toyota have a 96% first time pick rate, the highest in the industry, sadly your part is one of the 4% that cannot be supplied from stock