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  1. QuantumFireball

    QuantumFireball

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    flash22

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  3. FROSTYBALLS

    FROSTYBALLS

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    Stivino

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/2020 in all areas

  1. I mainly just press Auto or Off, and turn on AC and set temperature as desired. In Auto mode it'll adjust fan speed and direction accordingly, so I rarely change that manually.
    2 points
  2. No, I find them very straight forward to use, what don't you like about them? I have mine set at Auto 21oC (A/C on Eco) and it keeps a great even temperature without any intervention from me. If I want it a bit cooler or a bit warmer then its a quick press of a toggle switch.
    2 points
  3. The Gen 3/4 Prius has an exhaust heat recovery system, which uses a heat exchanger in the exhaust to heat the ICE coolant faster than a normal car would. Even in winter with mine it gets the coolant temperature up to around 40 degrees within 2 minutes, and 60 degrees in about 5 minutes with low speed driving (mostly 30 MPH). The Gen 4 additionally has an active grille shutter which will restrict airflow to the radiator when not needed. The Gen 2 Prius used a "coolant heat storage tank", a bit like a Thermos flask for keeping the coolant warm when the ICE wasn't running. I know with older cars if they only do short trips you could end up with a mayonnaise-like substance under the oil filler cap from condensation (a small amount, not like with head gasket failure). I don't know if more modern engine designs have eliminated this problem in general, but I don't hear of this happening with any Prius.
    2 points
  4. You need to modify your attitude - when you signed up to the club you agreed to be polite and to treat your fellow members with respect.
    2 points
  5. Don't know if this is in the right section but though I'd have a bit of fun since I've cleaned my rolla. Got me wondering what everyone else are like? Interior... mods... decals ect. So show off your car 👍🏻 Here's my 2004 Corolla TSport. 1.8 VVTL-I with the 2ZZGE engine. She's pretty much stock except cosmetics and stereo.
    1 point
  6. Hopefully it's just normal seepage and with a bit of luck it'll keep enough gas in it so that it works for a few years.
    1 point
  7. They generally all leak, just very slowly. He's probably of the opinion that it all seems to be normal and correct. Meantime, get an AC sanitiser along these lines: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-and-fluids/air-con/halfords-air-con-purifier-150ml-192496.html A new cabin air filter might be due too, depending on your service schedule.
    1 point
  8. That's because the rest had leaked out. i.e. if it's not on the inside, it must be on the outside. How did it get from the inside to the outside?
    1 point
  9. Good to see you have cool air again. What was done to fix it?
    1 point
  10. 2019 1.8 hybrid hatchback. https://photos.app.goo.gl/TCfFgYR4SNCmie8X9
    1 point
  11. A bit more digging the RX12 is better known as the Mark II rebuild kits.
    1 point
  12. Worrying about your personal infromation is completly normal and i totally understand that. But telling people that a module that is going to call an ambulance for you in case of a crash is the same as selling your soul to the devil and being a close minded person doesn't seem really polite in my opinion.
    1 point
  13. After a bit of digging A RX12 would have been sold under the Toyopet brand in Japan, the nearest equivalent would be the 73-79 corona RT10 edit. Booster or non booster, single or twin outlet ?
    1 point
  14. The 17 digit format was adopted from 1981, so a 1974 model wouldn't necessarily follow that format.
    1 point
  15. In japan they use a frame number, due to its age it may not be on any data bases, but i will have a look
    1 point
  16. Ditto, Auto or off. the only adjustments I make to temperature are set it to 21 during the Winter and 19 Summer. Can't remember if the Prius+ has controls on the MFD via the steering wheel buttons, the Gen 4 does, although it's probably quicker to use the buttons on the climate unit.
    1 point
  17. It looks like its a dealer job and doesn't come with map updates. Mine has an up to date map database but still on version 1512. Interesting that Toyota Canada do offer some DIY firmware updating but its on different software used only in North America.
    1 point
  18. Hi, A 2006/early2007 model is probably the best choice, its later than the ones with oil burning problems, but at 14 years old you cannot expect either to be in A1 condition. Depends on how much diy work you want to spend on such an old car, partic if its history is unkown, a Diesel will likely already have a high mileage, We have the 1.6 petrol , (40mpg) and apart from a new clutch its been faultless , now on 120k miles, just gets regular servicing.
    1 point
  19. Yeah I'm looking at a 2006 year. I've really liked the corolla for years but never owned one.
    1 point
  20. That is good, new tyres are always the best. The car will like it 👍
    1 point
  21. I think he got away quite lightly, because if he did it to you then he will do it to some other unsuspecting car owner. I would still carry out my threat and expose him on social media networks. He has no comeback, because by returning your money was an admission of guilt. Oh and don’t heed a word he told you about your springs and shocks. The old adage applies here: if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
    1 point
  22. Not that much round here, Andru. I've not checked if the new roads in Brackley are added, but the Flore - Weedon bypass is there now, on the way to Daventry from M1. Not essential, but you drive on the road now, not across the fields.
    1 point
  23. You’ll love it, the best Corolla ever and that’s saying something.👏👏. Send a few pictures when you can.
    1 point
  24. Just had a call from the dealership, I have an appointment to pick up the car 3rd June.
    1 point
  25. Hi, the higher octane fuel I have used few times did not make any change in performance or consumption where some additives did with noticeable effect. I think using a standard petrol and put the additive you like is better option, as you don’t actually know what additives are in the higher octane petrol, but you can make your own choice add it to the tank yourself, if you want to achieve better performance, fuel consumption or to clean the fuel system. Last time I used a higher octane petrol was a big mistake, the petrol quality was so poor for some reason that the car didn’t want to go at all, felt like I have all 4 tyres punctured. Just find which garage your car likes the most and fill up mostly from there. General rule is that lower powered cars are more sensitive to fuel quality and additives. When additives are used and there is no change that means there was no need of the additives at first place., perhaps same for the higher octane fuel. Regards
    1 point
  26. I only get about 50 MPG in my 2012 Plug-in on motorways too, that's with the cruise control stuck at 120 km/h (130 indicated), just under 75 MPH. It's closer to 60 if I slow down to 100 km/h, but sometimes I just couldn't be bothered :)
    1 point
  27. The figures I meant were those using the HV mode, which is similar to the 'normal' Toyota hybrid running. As to charging - I've only charged at home and the time taken is just over 2 hours from empty to full charge. I've used the drive charge-mode twice, both from Clisham to Stornoway and even then I achieved 85MPG on HV mode. So lugging a heavy battery doesn't seem to cause too much!
    1 point
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