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Those that have read my recent threads relating to missing fuses in my Mk4 Yaris Excel Hybrid, will perhaps recall I mention that I discovered what appeared to be the wiring harnesses for the footwell lights - but no bulbs / LEDs attached. It was/is one of my niggles that Toyota should go to the lengths of fitting all the wiring for the lights - but not take one more simple step of snapping some bulbs / LEDs in place from the parts bin during manufacture. Especially on the ‘Excel’ spec of Yaris. Correct me if I’m wrong here, but it appears only the ‘Launch’ edition gets the fancy blue footwell lights. Well, I noticed on Youtube (as you do!) that some people have discovered the same thing and fitted the bulbs/LEDs themselves to their own Yaris’s after sending away for the appropriate Toyota parts. This guy from Italy (Claudiettociov1) has made a good guide video (even if - like me, your Italian is a bit rusty!):- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oyNWL6xI1-8 The part numbers he uses for the lights (lamp assembly) are 81080-22040. They are about £20+ each and appear to be located in Dubai! You need four (or five if you go for the one under the USB port too - which I haven’t - yet!). I thought - bit pricey that! But, I noticed that you can get 12v LED light strips on eBay very cheaply, so I sent off for some. A pack of 4 strips of blue LEDs for under £4 was not going to break the bank - even if the experiment failed. Well, I’m chuffed to say it didn’t fail and I now have a Yaris with blue footwell lights, which come on with the courtesy lights - very similar to the Launch edition. Pictures are worth a thousand words (so they say), so I’ve attached photos of my progress and the results in fitting these LED strips just in case someone else on here wants to have a go on their own Mk4 Yaris. Of course, I have no idea which Yaris’s were/are fitted with the light harnesses. It might only be the Excel models - but maybe others were/are too. Still, not a bad upgrade for £4. Not too difficult and about an hour’s work. 😉👍

Completed this on my Mum's excel recently, from my checks it would appear that Dynamic, Excel & Launch editions in the UK all share the same Dash wiring harness so as mentioned above the plugs are all there for the 5 dash led ( Footwell x 4 & centre cubby ) the door harnesses do vary and wiring for door handle led are only present on UK Launch edition. The Toyota part number for the led is 81080-33280 ( for all positions ) We did manage to wire the doors ordering: 2 x led as above 2 x led harness plug 90980-11918 4x led harness wire with terminal 500mm 82998-74060 ( these insert into the plug above ) we ran the wires through the door harness grommet and connected to the dash harness where it meets the door harness pins 3 & 18.

I’d recommend a CTEK MXS 5.0 battery charger - a full charge with that will keep your car sufficiently charged to last a couple of weeks at the airport. https://www.tayna.co.uk/battery-chargers/ctek/mxs5-0/?gclid=CjwKCAjw9aiIBhA1EiwAJ_GTSvL2vTL-b0YuDV_i9wgAeQvN2W9W8DRnClJ4PUQ1KYuWoqCnfR_SrBoCX88QAvD_BwE

I have done same effect with dettol antibacterial surface cleaner, works great, leaves no marks and it’s odour free. Just spray some on microfibre cloth and wipe out. Better than new exactly. 👍👌😉

Of course, I just like to keep the numbers tidy - some would say slightly OCD?

Hello, Previously i changed my speakers to Alpine ones and got little bit better sound to my car. Still i was not very happy. Today i went and bought Match PP 41DSP plug & play amplifier. External Image album in case of these forum images will disapear: https://ibb.co/album/dgzLgF Amplifier is marketed to be plug & play. I bought Toyota version and it came with Toyota wiring harness. Amplifier get everything it needs from the wiring harness, separate power cable is not needed (at least 20A fuse to standard car audio system is required). Match PP 41DSP is quite small On the back side is different Toyota version list. Each number is different configuration on the DSP what can be changed with two buttons. Let the tear down begin, i had some help from Toyota-Tech. Audio unit was held with four 10mm screws. Match wiring harness goes between these two connectors and stock audio unit. There was perfect slot behind the glove box. top of air filter for Match. With little soft padding i was able to secure it to the place without fear of rattling noise or it moving around. With these pros and cons its good to note that i have changed my stock speakers to Alpine SXE-17CS 6.5 kits previously and DSP program is done for stock speakers. I found some installation notes from some BMW install saying that you can easily change stock ones to little better with this one without fear that DSP is then way off. I could image that stock speakers could benefit this maybe more than these Alpines. Pros: + much clearer stereo "feel" + sound is more level from whole range from low to high + deeper low end + super easy plug & play install + rear speakers sounds better Cons: - DSP levels cannot be programmed, you need to buy PP 62DPS for that - stock Audio unit seems to cut bass low when volume is tuned way up, DSP wont compensate that - 4 x 35W 4ohm RMS is not gonne blow your mind

Going any faster than the top speed of 112 mph could cause an emf (electro magnetic force) which would severely damage the electric motor beyond any repair. The onboard computer would probably close things down before any damage was done.

Known for water getting into boot area so a careful check around that area.

That's awesome! Good job, and thanks for taking the time to document it too!!

The autoglym is fine, I use it and it lasts a seriously long time. 🙂

Nice work 👍 Unluckily there's no wiring harness on the front doors ( there's only the hole ) even if someone has found a 12V point where connect wiring also for the doors. But I think thats these lights will remain always on when your car is in READY or ACC status.

it's possibly constrained by the drivetrain if not a limiter but at 112mph it's still well above the UK legal limit ... 😛 I wonder if it's still 112mph/180kph in e.g. Germany?

https://europe.toylexparts.com/yaris/112510/ncp13r-ahmvkw/0/029/4/8301/830696

I've had a look and i can't see it explicitly stating that. You should probably check with Toyota but you should probably get it checked whoever you go to and if they can't check it then another garage or just the main dealer for a hybrid only check if such a thing exists. My previous two services have had a Hybrid Health Check.

@Cyker, surely you need to work in multiples of 4.54609 in that case !

I'd check the manual to see if that's a size listed; If not, you can probably extrapolate an appropriate pressure from the other sizes listed. If all else fails, 35psi is generally a safe place to start! The Mk4 Yaris has weird pressures - It states, for 15" rims, 41/41psi for Type A and 36/35psi for Type B, whatever the heck Type A and B are, above 100mph (If someone can tell me that the heck Type A and B are in this context I'd be grateful!), and 41/41psi and 33/32 psi for below 100mph For 16" rims it says 35/32psi for above 100mph and 32/29 psi for below 100mph For 17" rims it says 32/29psi I found that weird as I'd have thought lower profiles needed more pressure than high profile tyres, but apparently not??

Good for you. Let's hope it goes trouble free for all of us, owners of the mk4 Yaris!!

This table is actually for a Toyota Auris, taken from the owners manual. On this car the differences are non-existant, for the 15", 16" and 17" wheels:- Over time, checking tyre wear profiles could help you. e.g. Tyres wearing a greater amount down the tyre centre line - over inflated. Tyres wearing a greater amount at the edges - underinflated. But as you know, other factors can come into play here, such as correct wheel alignment, driving style/pattern.

My late June order is still showing as landing in the UK 19th August, so about 10 weeks.

Then you go and pay by card??????

Hi, Actually, whenever I've looked, the manufacturer's tyre pressures usually go down when the tyre size is increased. I think this is a due to the larger tyre having a bigger contact patch, but only supporting the same weight, so the loading per square inch (cm?) is reduced, and the tyre pressure reduces accordingly. (I'm assuming the bigger tyre has a shallower sidewall/lower aspect ratio/same rolling radius.) There are probably better ways, but, you could ring through to, say, the Goodyear Dunlop technical helpline and explain the situation. General information: +44 (0)121 378 7000 Technical Helpdesk: +44 (0)8453 453 453 You might have to pretend you've got one of their tyres fitted though. I'm sure some better ideas will come along shortly.......

The requirement to carry breathalysers in France was abolished in 2020.

So, in the event someone else may bump into this post seeking the same answers as me, I will sum up the results of my own hunt. First of all, sorry, I have no solution. But I have a few thoughts... I think behavior is subtle enough to not really distract some, while it is very noticeable to others. In short, I believe all the cars have it to some degree, but how much you're bothered by it depends on multiple factors. In short, I don't think there is anything wrong with the car. Here's a few points that I will back that up with: 1. By looking through various forums, I can find multiple reports of the phenomenon, in particular with a 1.8L petrol fitted with a CVT transmission. Different model years, different models... but all cases I've found specifically, 1.8L and CVT! (And a large chunk of those have already tried replacing parts that usually would cause vibration in a faulty car) 2. I think it's theoretically possible to re-map the car to stop doing it, but you'd then be chiptuning the car and it will fall out of spec, and technically make it illegal.. you won't even gain any torque or bhp of significance .. 🙂 So no point. 3. Another thing I noticed while driving my car to test various situations, I decided to have the current fuel consumption up and running. Then it struck me, this is probably forced on to meet EU demands. Because the car seems to have at least two modes, and whenever it can, it will favor the least required fuel consumption it can get away with, sometimes almost choking the poor engine to death and it will start shaking a bit. The Sport mode can remedy this mostly, but comes with a price (higher fuel consumption and a tad more "hyper active" driving experience). My observations is also that every time the vibrations started, the RPM went down, but not only that, the gauge on current fuel consumption would NEVER vibrate when above the 10-mark (if you're using L/KM gauge). EVERY TIME under 10, this shaking would be back. This kinda proves to me that some eco-stuff is taking over as it sees fit, and there appears to be no way to override it other than the sport mode (but even then it's present and affects your RPM in some situations). 4. If coming from a car with a fully manual transmission, you are in full control of how low or high the engine speed is, this is also why I believe I haven't found any owners with the 1.8L and a manual gear with complaints about the same symptoms. I drove another automatic transmission yesterday too (not CVT, but a powershift) and now that I am aware of this I was able to notice slight signs of the same behavior, just not as much, and also while at lower RPMs. Again decided by the automatic transmission. At this point, I do not really know what I'm hearing is resonance or actual vibrations (since both can make the cabin shake), but seeing as this is happening only in low RPM while the car would have benefit from slightly more, I do think it is what it really sounds like.. a starved engine. Since this seems to be common in more than a decade worth of car models, I do not believe it is a sign of anything failing, rather than something that needs to be improved somehow. Exactly how I would not have a clue on where to look. I may even be assuming incorrectly... 🙂 But thought I'd share my thoughts anyway, knowing there might still be someone with the same (seemingly) unanswered questions.

Just ordered a longer Mode 2 Type 2 mains plug “granny” cable from Screwfix. Master plug, good reviews and excellent ‘price locked’ price. I’ve ordered the 10m but they sell the 5m version. Might worth looking at for anybody looking for a new charging cable. https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-10a-2-3kw-mode-2-type-2-socket-electric-vehicle-charging-cable-10m/595gv https://www.screwfix.com/p/masterplug-10a-2-3kw-mode-2-type-2-socket-electric-vehicle-charging-cable-5m/267gv

What works for me on both my previous Mark 1 and my current Mark 2 is to insert the nozzle with the handle horizontally towards the rear of the car. With the handle vertical my experience is that it clicks almost immediately, but this way it only clicks when the tank is almost full - just enough space left to round up to the next pound!

R4P, My understanding is that the AGM 12 volt battery will only be charged if the car is either on the move or in ready mode, so for clarification just having a full traction battery will not charge the 12 volt battery with out intervention. I was surprised that during the traction battery charge process at home or from the charge station that the 12 volt battery was not also topped up.

If you have the silver door grab handles like my old T-Spirit they definately serve a purpose. My current Avensis has white stitching so they actually match pretty well imo. https://www.toyota.co.uk/new-cars/avensis/#/gallery/3060-679505-4/8

Yes - that is where the majority of British built cars are exported, and where car imports into the UK arrive. Storage there is temporary - not months on end when car manufacturers over-produced vehicles just to keep the production lines running. Manufacturers can no longer afford to keep large stocks. Car carrier ships hold anything between 5,000 to 8,500 vehicles per voyage, and there has to be somewhere for the vehicles to be held temporarily before being either transported to UK distribution centres or loaded onto carrier ships for export.

Thanks for all the advice. I've got plenty of experience driving in France, just not taking my car from UK (have family there). Thanks for the photo of the dot - mine has that (seems maybe even smaller but its definitely there) so I will apply the stickers. Was planning to look against a wall in the dark but I'm Scotland so not getting much darkness at the moment - would have to go out to the car in the middle of the night!

The increase in weight raises the C02 emissions and affects the VED band for the first year under the current VED system.

Why not just try a microfibre cloth and fairly hot water with a splash of detergent in it. I've found that works better than anything on all the trim in my 2010 Auris. It looks better than it did when new... honest. No streaks, no marks, no shading from uneven application of 'treatments', no lint or bits, its perfect. Many many years ago I used to use ArmorAll but remember that having applied the stuff it then needed a light wipe with a damp cloth to even it all out which in the end was probably removing most of it. Try the microfibre and hot water + detergent (only a tiny drop) first.

I came across this issue on my first T27 & got these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231159054878 They cost me under £30 though at the time so the price has fairly jumped. You can get different colour to suit your trim. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231159054878

All sorted, 👍

Most aspects of the map can be modified here: https://www.here.com/ I've never bothered looking to see if that includes speed cameras because I have no interest in them so I don't know if they can also be edited there.

What a dreadful site MyToyota is - I can't believe I'm the only one finding it a hard one to navigate! I agree with Andrue that someone competent is needed to sort it out. It is currently experiencing some problems so I can't get the update - I've been going round in circles for the past 10 minutes. Oh well, I will just have to try again another day.

And what a palaver it was as usual. The billing summary form seems to have a mind of its own. The telephone numbers default to +32 xx xx xx xx and it took me four or five attempts before it finally accepted my number. I think it needs +44 on the front but who knows, really? And now it's impossible to find a download link. Update: Found it. It's under 'inactive purchases'. God above! And I have to confirm T&Cs again! J H *****! I've posted this before: Toyota need to get someone competent to sort out their stupid eStore. Has the designer never experience a proper eCommerce site?

I always have to put it in a certain angle, and then it'll work properly, and clicks off when its full. I never brim the tank,

So, you going from a situ where you lots of space in your tank for fuel. Are you putting the fuel pipe in the tank and fully squeeze the trigger? If so, be a bit more gentle initially and progressively squeeze the trigger. Just different technique needed I think.

It's just 3 yaris

Just seen this.... Looks good, I've done exactly the same, in exactly the same car recently: - changed the speakers (pioneers in back, Gladen in front) - bought a Match PP41 amp I hope I can find the slot next to fuse box you indicate to place the amp. Otherwise it wil be just laying in the glove compartment, but I think your solution looks neater. I will be installing it this week.