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After reading all your numerous posts, it sounds like you’re the type of person who will never be happy!

You can buy a small battery powered device that emits a signal which the birds detect and keeps them away. You would need to fit it on the tree. My neighbour has one on his roof to keep the seagulls away and it works well.

Lol, that’s not funny at all, although sounds like a bit. If you don’t drive regularly car cover may help. Amazon, Eurocarparts also sell good ones. The advice for polish the paintwork is valuable. Once I had to re spray the whole bonnet on a car that has been bombarded by a seagulls, bad birds. They didn’t touch my white car though on a recent visit to a seaside resort. , I was lucky. You can buy or make something to scare the birds, attach to the tree branches, something that makes noise and looks like a human or cat , something to make them scared and show them they are not welcome on that tree . But perhaps the best is if you can avoid parking under any trees as these cause also other issues. Tree debris are horrible to cars , they block important gutters behind wipers and rear stop lights and then water enters into the car .

It could be all down hill from here 🤓

Journalist review, overall good with again some negative comments about cvt which is something to be ignored obviously. 👍 https://apple.news/ASUd7viO3TsyKg8i2PhHTcg

In another thread you wrote this - “I did check at the weekend at the dealers on the GR sport and the ones in stock were the same” Clearly not a ‘bodged job one off’ if they are all like it. Sell up. Move on.

My neighbor over the road has a similar problem with the pigeons and gulls. Although somewhat less now the sweet old lady next door has stopped chucking bread on the roof of the garage. I have suggested a real hawk to put them off, and it would be good company when not on duty.🦅 The suggestions already made are better than mine, ceramic coating maybe?

Air rifle 😂 seriously you could try covering the car I know it’s a hassle but would stop damaging the paintwork. Have just had another thought you could try one of those model hawks that you can buy I have seen them on boats in marinas seems to stop the seagulls. You could try mounting the hawk in the tree if possible.

Good advice about tree debris. The treacly sap trees drop at some times of the year is far harder to remove than anything deposited by birds!

Did you have the same problem with your old car? Maybe it didn't worry you so much with the old car? If the new car is attracting more !Removed! than the old car, is it a different colour? It seems to be the case round where I live that seagulls seek out white cars but I'm not sure pigeons care! Short of illegal methods involving shotguns or catapults I can only suggest that you always keep the car well polished (or use another form of paint sealer) so that the damage can be washed away without permanent damage to the paintwork.

UK manufacturers the hatch & touring sports Corolla for the European markets. 1.8 hybrid power unit is also built in the UK. 2 litre hybrid power unit is made in Poland then shipped to the UK for fitment in to Corolla.

On the MyT app yesterday I had a trip showing a new PB on my mileage figures, 309.4MPG. This was on a trip a little under two miles. Wouldn't it be great if all our journeys were downhill?

Having read some of your posts, maybe best to just trade it in for something else that fits your requirements. Prices for nearly new cars are still pretty high so you may not lose too much. Life is too short to be picking fault after fault in your new car, sounds like you will never be happy with this one.

I have Good Year Performance 2 on 17mm wheel. 225/45R17. It is much more comfortable in bump and rough roads than the OEM Dunlop summer tires. It is relatively quiet but the main + is the ride quality, it is firm but still have enough cushion even on 17 inches wheel. I bought it for €60 and install it for €17.5 each. The instalation cost (mounting and balancing) is already expensive, there is no point to buy non premium tires that last much shorter and less comfortable and grip. Goodyear for summer, Michelin All Seasons for winter.

Snap, picked mine up with same colour last Friday. Lovely looking thing with that colour and wheel combo. I have done 350 miles in 6 days and I am enjoying everything about it.

I use my wife's nail varnish remover and cotton pads.

Great suggestions thanks folks! I think I’ll try a fake hawk and some reflective tape and see if that does the job. Now I just need to figure out getting that stuff up there! Tree debris is annoying but I stay on top of cleaning so never causes an issue. The daily bird poo cleaning is just frustrating though as it’s so difficult to get off. But soaking toilet paper and leaving it on seems to work best if I don’t want to do a full pressure wash. I’ll let you know how I get on with the buggers. I don’t know what they’ve been eating but they’re certainly well fed by the looks of what’s left on my car 😂

It's broken alright and that's why the rubber isn't sitting properly.

When I price them for my Avensis, there’s a few £ difference so I’ll probably go for the PS4 or PS5’s. Only thing is the Primacy has A rating for both rain and fuel. Think PS’s sacrifice some fuel economy for the cornering. I’ve budget tyres on since I got the car in Jan. surprisingly they’re a good enough job. Might just be the car itself handles better. But either way I really want to see what the PS4’s are like. If not worth it I’ll probably go primacy. at this price you can pretty much buy any other brand. I’ve heard some good stuff about Good Year and Dunlop’s competing tyres but one common remark on all the reviews seems to be that the Michelins last long and they perform near as good as always until they get wore down to the legal limit

Looks like the last 50-60 mm is missing - due to the mileage do them as an axle pair otherwise you will be chasing your tail https://lagabasen.com/visa-produkt?part=G-42182214 just a quick look on the epc 48231-02B40

Inspect and clean the rear drums, It's either the rear shoes or the cable has stretched, what is the actual wording on the fail sheet ? Mk1 or Mk2 aygo ?

Well I decided to rotate my tyres Goodyear efficient grip performance 2 today as I have done another 10k miles since refitted them for the season. Tyre wear is great, 5mm all around, thumbs up here. They are only 2.5 years old and covered 60000 miles, but unfortunately they will not live long and it will require change sooner than I expected. They had begun to dry road on the inner side walls and cracks are appearing. I had only one crack hair size which is not bad or dangerous, however this discolouration and the texture on the inner walls says it all. I had exact the same experience with Nexen winter tyres and I thought it was from poor quality, however tyres are not at fault at all. It’s all because of the salt on the motorways during winter. I am telling you, this is the biggest enemy to all cars been used on motorways, it’s unbelievable stupid idea to throw salt 6 months a year in county with mild climate, temperatures 6C° and the gritters are out and about. Never seen that in any other country. 👎🙅🏻‍♂️🚫 Here is why in USA Toyotas can last 300k + miles with only simple service, but in UK they can not ! Anyway here we go some pictures. The red circle is to show you how a puncture repair with those temporary strips can hold on in time and miles, done that second day after were fitted new back in 2020🤒

I bought a 9 month old 2.0 GR estate, that's the only model I wanted. The same goes for my last car, I wanted a GT86, so I bought one.

Give it at least 24 hours, better 48, before worrying further. Propagation really does seem to take an age ...

Absolutely they really are. But those are overkill on a 1.2T... PS4's are amazing on high end cars. For these ones, Primacy 4 are the best (I think), followed closely by the Goodyear Efficient Grip 2.

Inside the passenger door opening there's a plate at the bottom right hand side giving the Model number. You want the Version code (not Variant,I misread that bit) which is the first 7 digits of the Model number.

IIRC it should just be threaded

Should be looking at a 1.8 Corolla later this year once local dealer gets a demonstrator, missus has decided it's the perfect car for her. Be even more perfect for her if the employee discount scheme restarts.

Do you guys know what mode your car is in when preconditioning etc.? I can't see any need for the PHEV to charge the auxiliary battery while charging normally - the HEV obviously doesn't, and not doing so doesn't cause any real problem. There's an awful lot of paranoia about! But, obviously, if the car is set to a 'mode' where it places an additional load on the 12v system then it would be 'madness' not to keep the 12v battery topped up (else you could get into the situation where the car is nice and warm but won't go into Ready mode!) But we've got into topic drift here - while there is an "auxiliary battery capacity" issue of the RAv4 hybrid (plugin or not) it is not a good hypothesis as an explanation for the experience Nick reported at the start of this thread. It isn't supported by any of the reported facts, and is actively contradicted by the level of recent use and the simple fact that the car goes happily into Ready mode. A better hypothesis might be that the 'car' got confused by the shift pattern between Drive and Reverse and what it wanted to do with the ICE and hybrid drivetrain - so it sulked and refused to play in order to protect the transmission / drivetrain. And then in keeping with many good software faults, switching off, counting ten slowly and starting again resolved the confusion making everything right again. That at least appears to fit the reported facts - but it's only an alternative hypothesis (aka 'plausible' guess).

As Bill says, the name is just a name and you can edit that to be anything you want. Quite why the dealer recorded it as "RE1" is anyone's guess. But the picture should, I believe, match the model and colour derived from the VIN - and that is certainly a PHEV; presumably it reflects the colour of Bill's car. That said, I've not a clue as to why Bill isn't seeing the full functionality in My T. If getting to a dealer is difficult he could try: Deleting the MyT app from his 'phone and putting it back again. Hopefully it will configure itself correctly next time. And if that doesn't work, remove the car from My Toyota and start again ... But I'm not going to actually recommend either course of action since I really don't know whether it will work! 🙂

I've wondered that too, is there any relationship with the different EU emissions classes as they are associated with changes to the ECU and it's calibration/tuning? Plus the latest Aygos use a different variant of the 1KR-FE with dual VVT and multipoint injection. My Mk1 was EU4 and my Mk2 EU6.2

and I’m struggling to find where I ‘thought’ I’d read that the 12v battery did not charge when the traction battery is charging. Maybe it’s the potential confusion about having the traction battery heating/cooling on?

It seems you can enter your reg into the Transport for London website and it tells you if you're compliant… https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/check-your-vehicle/

Macklin Motors have opened a Toyota dealership at Darnley now, or I think the next nearest is SDM at Falkirk.

It's also annoying that it beeps loudly if you get out and close the door when the car is on. Fair enough for driver's door, but the others and the boot ... WTF? (Typically we get home, I get out to open the garage, but leave my door ajar so it doesn't beep, but family get out and close their doors ... beep, beep, beep, beep, beep - three times per door, and then the boot too.) It's knows which doors are in use because it shows them open on the display, so why does it have to be so stupid? One day someone will build a car that doesn't have some stupid irritation like this programmed in. (All mine from the last 6 or 7 years have managed some level of 'Oh for god's sake' behaviour, and that's over several different makes.)

Actually both sides of that case has a good points. Easiest way is to sell trade in and move on. It’s a new car and if there are any faults indeed it will not be passed to the next owner by the current owner, it will be Toyota to blame. And I will agree that latest models quality is not on par with older cars, but sadly this is the case with many others. Is it worth fighting about that and what the OP personal gains will be , only he knows best for himself. I had a bad car once from the same brand, and I had returned it to the dealer on the very same day of collection, only drove it 50 miles. I lost some cash but saved myself a lots of trouble. The only thing that I blame myself was that when I had the feeling that the car is not right I should have walked away and not proceed with the purchase. Lesson learned. Good luck to the op whatever he decides to do with the car. 👍

I've found this out since getting my Yaris Hybrid, & often I have to wait while my Wife is shopping. Also it doesn't like me leaving the driver's door open when I have anything switched on!

I ordered excel with tech package at the end of jan 22. My delivery date has been pushed back to april 23

Of course, if you had used ‘ready mode’ instead, you would have continued to put some charge back in the battery, probably with little use of the ICE starting. Do that 4 times in the week and you’ll achieve the “1 hour per week” recommended by Toyota, no need for use of the charger.

It's very likely to be a bad cat. but a bad downstream o2 sensor can't be ruled out completely. If you have access to an infrared thermometer then check the temperature of the fully warmed up cat. the outlet should be hotter than the inlet.

After another interior clean out and finding more scratched plastic I am going to make a formal complaint to the dealer about ‘not fit for purpose’. I am not carrying anything I haven’t carried in previous cars such as garden rubbish, decorating materials and rubbish. (in fact I carried bricks, blocks, sand/cement etc in my Volvo and the interior always came up like new. At this rate by the time the car is 3-4 years old it will be trashed. I can live with all the other aspects of the car but at £45k it simply ain’t good enough.

Thanks for all the info! They sell an M6 and M8 sized CTEK eyelet adaptor. Ive ordered the M8. How did you manage to change the positive one to a larger size?

As above its normal, voltage is meaningless without knowing the current

Lexus ES is currently the best hybrid that money can buy in UK. If I was not using my car for work I would have buy one and keep it until there is no more fuel available at the petrol stations.

To be honest, I know they are expensive, but the genuine Toyota ones are excellent quality and fit like a glove .

Toyota is cheaping on many parts for sure and at the same time prices are getting higher and higher, definitely not a positive and does not make them any favour. Makes like Volvo, Audi , VW are more premium in general. Been looking at recent XC60 hybrid and tbh older Volvos seems better made, although that particular car been built in Sweden. Last month Toyota dealer visit tbh except Rav4 phev and Corolla GR Sport hatchback nothing else made a good impression to me especially interior materials. But the rav4 plug-in was top spec and even was smelling different inside from all others, much nicer car similar to German brands.

Maybe I wasn't clear, so apologies. I added all the petrol I have bought and computed l/100km for the entire mileage I have done INCLUDING the battery powered mileage, so it's a mix of petrol and battery power giving me that figure. I'm still happy with it though, considering that my long trips have been distinctly non-eco in style!

For what it's worth, I have done about 6500km since I had the car including a return trip to UK (over 2000km) and four 200km each way trips to high mountains. When I am blasting along French motorways (bliss compared to most UK motorways) I am doing 130kmh. I cannot drive long trips like that at low speeds! A major reason for PHEV for me is not having to worry about charging stops on long trips if it were pure EV. Anyway, I do all my short trips (i.e. the vast majority) using EV only. So my calculation gives me an overall petrol consumption of 4.4l per 100km. Putting that into good old mpg, it is about 64.2mpg.

Sadly, 1 L every 1200 miles is standard in auto industry. As long as the oil consumption is small, less than 1L every 2k miles, you can dislodge the piston rings by simply change the oil every 5000 miles/6 months with longlife 508/509 certified oil, castrol, mobil1, ravenol, etc. Don't use thicker oil because it will not help. Longlife engine oil has 20k miles rate, higher detergent and overtime it clean the piston ring slowly without harming other parts. The high solvent chemical like seafoam only meant to be used for Max 1 hour. It harms the seals, bearing, etc.