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The Insurance quotes have started to expand this morning!! (at last...)😁 £601 so far from 5 other companies...

Finally got insurance but had to do it through Adrian Flux. Couldn't get anything reasonable online despite the bulk of insurers quoting today. More than I wanted to pay but got sick of filling in insurance details and seeing no results so just needed to end the stress. Dealer sent me an ultimatum to get it sorted today 🤔 I'm hoping that there'll be a customer satisfaction survey to complete as that will be so much fun to complete and they won't like the comments 🙂 Picking it up on Monday

Hi, fuel savings between different tyres is negligible, 2-3mpg , however the comfort and safety are day and night difference. Go for minimum mid range tyres like Nexen, Kumho, Hankook or preferably get premium tyres like Goodyear efficient grip performance 2 or similar, these are so good , last long and withhold characteristics with age and mileage where cheaper tyres loose grip as soon as one year old or less than 10k miles. If you look for promotions you can get premium tyres for the price of mid range. https://www.blackcircles.com/tyres/205-55-16

Your tyres are the only thing holding your car to the road. Buying the cheapest tyres you can find sounds like a dangerous strategy to me.

You don't need to spend too much money for a good tyre. Take a look at Uniroyal Rainsport 5, Firestone Roadhawk (a cheaper version of the excellent Turanza T005) or even the older, but still very good and safe, Dunlop Sport Blue Response. Those tyres are not expensive and are very safe. Sometimes, you can even find them cheaper than some chinese brands. Cheaper, weird brand tyres make a significant difference when it comes to safety. Especially wet tarmac, aquaplaning and wet breaking. Check out Tyre Reviews YoutTube channel, and see some tests.

Showed location of socket, it can be mounted higher up but then cables need lengthening. Voltages shown are at rest and with engine running. Haven't tried pd fast charge but usb works ok. I ran cables supplied under carpet to the battery tray then extended up to battery terminals.

I gave a look to my one ( MY20 ) and there's no difference

Just off to get it but I always like the returning car to not be an embarrassment so it’s had a quick clean up. It’ll make somebody a cracking little motor. I’ll show you the new one real soon.

Your car doesn’t have brakes??? 😉

I swear by those and they have been on my cars for the last 7 years or so. very predictable drive and very good wet performance.

The Dunlop Blue Response are comfortable tyres, with predictable grip. I can recommend them. Getting a well known brand is key. Cheaper tyres are usually short lived.

I have to complete a medical questionnaire every 3 years so that they can monitor my condition hasn't worsened. Then they issue another licence with a 3 year validity. Standard procedure for type 1 diabetes. But 160+ insurers all deciding at the same time that they don't want to insure me on this particular model isn't right I just got quotes for a Lamborghini Aventador to prove the point. That was over £7k though so I'll stick with the Yaris for a while longer 🙂

Hi John, obviously not a good start to your ownership. double check the warranty details while the initial cleaning might not be covered (as it's considered maintenance), the hybrid battery itself should be under the extended 10-year warranty if you've maintained the car as per Toyota's service schedule. Review the paperwork you received from Toyota after the first inspection. It should outline what was diagnosed and the work performed. Contact Toyota directly and explain the situation.They might be able to clarify the warranty coverage for the battery replacement. Politely argue your case with the dealership Highlight that the problem persisted after their initial cleaning, pointing out that the battery overheating issue wasn't truly resolve.Emphasize that the car is under warranty, especially for the hybrid battery.Request a breakdown of the battery failure and why it's not covered.Ask if there's any possibility of a goodwill gesture from Toyota considering the recent cleaning and the warranty timeframe.If the dealership remains unbudging, consider contacting Toyota customer service directly. Explain the situation and see if they can intervene.You might explore reaching out to a consumer rights organisation for advice on how to proceed if Toyota doesn't offer a solution. Keep copies of all service records, invoices, and any communication you have with the dealership and Toyota customer Service If possible, note down the date and time of your conversations and who you spoke with. It's important to be persistent and advocate for yourself. Hopefully, with a clear understanding of the warranty and by explaining the situation, you can reach a reasonable solution with Toyota. Hope this helps

All of those that you mentioned. You'll need to make at least one change to either your start date or excess amount in your existing details to get them to fully refresh... (then you can just flick it back to what you had...)

It's a good shout but I've already tried that. On one of of Toyota's Facebook ads for the Premiere I posted that insurance was impossible to obtain and they asked me to message them directly. They told me that as far as they knew the insurance details had been submitted on 27/02 but they were going to investigate further. When my dealer started giving me ultimatums I messaged them again expressing my dissatisfaction with both the dealer and the brand as a whole. They took details of the dealer and asked for my email and phone number, which they acknowledged. That was 2 days ago and they haven't contacted me so I'm making it official via the dealer now.

Great photos Don. I only wish manufacturers would show the same detailed photos in their shiny brochures rather than producing images of nice people with bleached teeth and having the latest hair styles.

Decided apart from the battery, I really like the car, so just going to swap out the untrustworthy Mutlu for a YBX5202 when I get the car.... you can pick them up for c £70, so by the time you've faffed about with chargers and boosters etc I cant see its worth the effort or angst....would anyone interested in a new (very lightly used) Mutlu in a few weeks time 😉

Part 2 b. Well it’s here and I must say I’m quite taken by it. The colour is superb (Juniper Blue) although it looks similar to the Cross blue - maybe a little bit darker..... you decide. 4 miles on the clock so absolutely out of the box. This is running round the factory and various harbours. We had some time going through the dash options and there are many single and double clock types. We settled on this double; In the boot, this one has a deck board and while the previous model had a spacesaver, this one has tyre gunk. The accessory kit comes with all Toyota/Lexus models now. The wheels are sensational I’m my opinion, if they were 18 inch, I’d quite like them on the Lexus; Moving to the inside and look what we’ve got here. Really!!! LED lights - thank you Toyota. Nothing in the back on this car but there might be on other models. Why? Well this one has a pan roof option - very nicely executed too. Nanoe-x climate, USB C’s, cordless charging and the usual layout.... Infotainment screen is big and bright although I noticed the rear view camera was a bit grainy. The sound is good. The vents are in a much more sensible place and we could feel them on the 12 mile return journey. It really is beneficial to leave the climate control in the auto position, oh and the app is far better than the Cross was and my Lexus, you can set any temperature and it’s all colour coded. You can also lock, unlock and set the hazard warning to help you find it in a dark car park. I thought I’d have a little look at those rear henges. Weren’t they two bolt fixings? These are single and they have been daubed in a thick coat of corrosion inhibitor. I think the problem was more chemical than rust in origin but we might learn more with time. The boot floor still has the stain from the electrostatic dip - that’s fine. I know, I know, you want to know about the battery. Well all I can tell you is that it has been changed but quite what to I’m not sure. The Mutlu has gone but there are literally no other markings in view and I didn’t think it fair to dismantle my friend's and more than I did to examine it. It looks very much like a different battery but I can’t tell you at this stage whether it is an upgraded Mutlu or something else - the stickers are at the back but you could see them previously. Something to discuss and speculate on!!! Engine layout is the same and still one single tiny vibrating disc horn. Might be my imagination but it did seem a bit more insulated to ride in. It also has safe exit assist to warn about passing cars and bikes. I would prefer Queen Boadicea extending blades to pass bikes but you know I’m a grumpy so and so.

I prefer to keep the same type on all four corners. This is why I currently have the same type of Falkens on my Corolla as it shipped with despite the criticisms levelled at them. Like most people the fronts wear faster so I'm typically replacing a pair at a time. I usually replace tyres in Autumn if it looks like I'll have less than 3mm of tread by the end of the Winter. That's sooner than the law requires but tests have shown that at 3mm or less tread tyres suffer a rapid drop off in wet weather grip.

It depends what are classed as budget tyres. My point was that some of the lesser known makes on sale in the UK, are owned by majors and their technology, manufacturing, etc, etc will benefit from the owning group sharing expertise, unlike some other standalone brands. For example Dunlop tyres (which is just one of Goodyear's brands), being owned and manufactured by Goodyear, will benefit from Goodyear's expertise. Similarly with other brands I mentioned.

How many miles do you do annually could also be factor.

Some people refer to such tyres as 'ditchfinders'. I'd suggest checking some reliable review sources, though different sizes of the same tyres can have different levels of recommendations

That info on dealer sites is driven by the Registration number, that spec is issued by the likes of CAP or Glasses Guide, it is not actually supplied by the manufacturer. That is why you must always confirm your requirements to whoever you are purchasing from. These spec sheets (and brochures) always have E & OE printed on them, Errors and omissions excepted, it is very important, no matter what you are buying, to ensure it meets your needs. We often see people who "think" a car has Sat Nav because there is a sat Nav button on the screen, it does not mean it is actually installed. Always check it has what you need

Production switched to MY23 for both engines in December 2022 we are told. You could therefore find one registered from then onwards (72 plate). As far as I am aware there were no 'mix & match' cars produced (no-one has mentioned it on here anyway), so you need to look for the later (knobless) infotainment if you want the 5th gen engine. If you see a car with the knob on the screen which is described as having the more powerful engine, don't believe it. A lot of dealers, websites etc. seem to have just switched to the MY23 descriptions without checking whether they applied to specific cars.

Interesting comments about lack of power. I guess i'm gonna find out shortly. on the test drives I was perfectly happy with it and didn't feel it was too slow. depends what you're used to I suppose. I felt it was fine at roundabouts (for me). the worst I ever had at roundabouts was an Audi a1 1.4 dsg auto 2015 model. it drove lovely but at roundabouts was a nightmare. found that it had a software glitch common to all of them apparently (that obviously I wasn't told about on test drive in a manual version) whereby when you went from foot on brake to foot on accelerator, there was a lag. that lag was quite literally frightening. in sport mode it was better, but if you forgot to put it in sport mode.....ouch! you literally thought the gearbox had not gone into gear, then suddenly as you pressed harder on accelerator you took off with wheels spinning! Ridiculous.

If the car has a valid service done within the last 12 months or 10000 miles you don’t need a separate hybrid battery health check as this comes together and it’s called hybrid service. There is no such a requirement to have all health checks in order to receive hybrid battery warranty. The dealer you are dealing with seems to try avoid helping you or simply wants to generate more profits and charge you for new battery. here: https://www.toyota.co.uk/content/dam/toyota/nmsc/united-kingdom/owners/warranty/toyota-warranty/Toyota Hybrid Battery Extended Cover Terms_tcm-3060-1563365.pdf

That’s really is a poor customers service from your dealer. You don’t need a full set of health checks, you only need to have a current service or health check and car been fault free , that’s all . Hybrid battery warning page on Toyota website states that. The reason why this battery has fail at low miles is likely as a result of blockage in the cooling system and frequent higher temperature of the battery.

Thought you only needed the previous one to reset the warranty ie within 1 year and 10 thousand miles

If you replace e-call module ( probably is the same for all EU countries included the ones not partecipating to European Community ) the module should succeed to register to mobile network and stop complaining. If you can replace the module, I suggest to generate a test call pressing e-call button. Better avoid discovering that e-call is not working, when you've a real emergency ( obviously I hope you never have the need 😉✌️ )

Yes, I saw that. For me it is currently neck & neck between uswitch and moneysupermarket just now...

Yes, dramatically lower today. Tried last night and no change. Go compare just came up with 346. They're offering free excess cover - select 250 excess lowers quote and if you need to pay once claim is settled then they refund. Probably not possible to combine with cashback deals but worth look at

Roy, thanks for your reply I think that's what the issue is. Thing is, if i find an engineer that can turn my eCall system to CY version, I'm not sure the problem would stop? As I understand it the system performs a maintenance inspection every 10-15 min to the emergency call button. It would still perform it even after the fix, and it should receive back good feedback. I need to check if CY people can do that. :)

Good advice, follow this rule and you shouldn't go far wrong.

If no joy after that, it sometimes helps to raise awareness on a wider public platform to jolt/shame into action e.g. X (formerly Twitter). I note they have regular speedy replies to issues raised... start off general, then they reply a link to direct / private message them with the personal details. I have just used this method on a problem with o2 and it was sorted within days (after palm-off on phone). Tag @ToyotaUK in post... Hope you get this sorted and champion for others!

Just been on Chr forum and same problems there with the Turkish battery and yet I’ve done 21000 miles in 3 years in my Chr no problem at all and started after 3 weeks in hospital ! Your right Don I shouldn’t worry

If it was me I will speak with branch manager and then if issue not resolved I will escalate to the owner and ceo and then to Toyota head office above the case and request at least £2000 off as refund and 3 years free service or return the car for refund.

If it was my car I'd be working out how to lower that part by 4 or 5mm. I don't think it's part of the problem - I think it's the entire problem.

Are you sure it isn't normal? My Yaris is quite petrolly when it starts up some mornings, and it's super noticeable if I'm reversing into the exhaust or if the wind is blowing from the back. I always assumed it was the auto-choke or whatever cars use these days, but TBH I've only driven diesels until I got this hybrid so I don't know how normal it is for more modern petrol cars...!

I suspect for similar money you will get a higher mileage early mk5 RAV. Personally I would go for the latter.

Was the dealer actively advertising the car since October? Seems a long time to be off the road, or was it used as a dealership run around or courtesy car? Low mileage generally means one of two things: It's had normal use but sat for very long periods without being used, or, it's had many very short cold engine journeys. As it's a 2018 vehicle have you checked the MOT status and mileages from first MOT, that may give you some clue as to how it may have been used based on the stated mileages.

Wheels are OK if they are wooden spoked with a iron tyre.

Your correct Don. The written spec especially on the Toyota dealer sites are not always true. It's a blanket cover on a MY23 spec which is often a MY22 in reality. I bet alot of buyers have been caught out by this. The only way to be sure is go and see the car in the flesh then grill the salesman.

There are new part numbers as there has been a change in supplier, flaps have been on back order for months Edit. Ah they are the new ones New P/N Front - PW389-0D050 http://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/b3aaaedd-21dd-4609-989c-b71e2b0a4599/Yaris_Front_Mudflaps_PW389_0D050_AIM_006_403_0.pdf Rear - PW389-0D060 http://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/9eba2ee9-4d68-4235-886d-f3a3463ce9b4/Yaris_Rear_Mudflaps_PW389_0D060_AIM_006_404_0.pdf Old P/N Front - PW389-0D000 Rear - PW389-0D001 or PW389-0D005

You can check online if he is insured, just put his registration number in to https://ownvehicle.askmid.com/ Parts alone will be £450 plus painting and labour. Every day I get asked for parts prices as the other party "wants to pay" .........They never do

Hi John, Unless you have changed the bulbs recently then it is possible that your low beam bulbs are nearing the end of their lifespan and aren't producing as much light as they used to. This is the most common cause of headlight dimming. Check your owner's manual to find the correct bulb type for your low beams and replace them yourself or by a mechanic. The headlight assemblies might be misaligned, directing the low beams downward instead of straight ahead.Look in your owner's manual for instructions on how to adjust the headlights yourself. If you're not comfortable doing this, a mechanic can adjust them for you. Over time the headlight lenses can accumulate dirt, grime, and oxidation, reducing light output. Try cleaning the headlight lenses with a headlight cleaning kit or mild soap and water. As far as adjusting the lights have a look at the back of the headlights for a possible adjustment with a knob or screws. Align the car against a garage or wall to adjust them. YouTube has videos on headlight adjustment as a guide.Hope this helps. It should also be remembered if the headlights are not set correctly they may fail an MOT.

In UK we have an emergency call system. It is automatic in the event if airbag deployment I believe. You can also initiate a call by pressing a button. I believe it is an EU wide system and not Toyota specific. As your cars are direct imports your system my be on the wrong frequency. It might need retuning or a new module. You could ask owners of other Japanese direct import cars, not just Toyota. Mitshubishi used to be direct import. It may be that the E Call module is a common item across different makes.

I think that's the right call - cr@toyota aren't always super helpful with general queries, but they're good at getting a dealer to pull their socks up! Evidently they consider massive horsepower increase of the 130 to be much more dangerous than a race-focused all-wheel drive rally homologation special!

Forgot to mention that the lane departure only needs a short press to sack it now and the traffic sign recognition seemed very good. It bongs (that’s high description of the sound!) and flashes at a speed change point.

A very valid point!

I think they know by now but they will insist on having the vehicle for two days while they charge it day one and test it day two. I’ve charged very questionable batteries after an overnight charge and they’ve come out fine so at worst it will pass the test and you’ve wasted two days or at even worse, they’ll fail it and fit another crock of you know what. For £80 it’s not worth the hassle and it then presents the car you expected to enjoy.