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Hello Chris - welcome to Toyota Owners Club. An alarm was not standard equipment - just an immobiliser and deadlocks.

The original 1.3 engine (86bhp) was carried over from the first generation Yaris. In the second generation Yaris this engine was replaced from February 2009 with the new 1.33 (1329cc - 100bhp) engine, which also incorporated Toyota's Optimal Drive enhancements - including the stop/start system and a six speed gearbox. The third generation Yaris of 2011 onwards retained the 1.33 engine, but Toyota discontinued the stop/start system on the Yaris due to cost.

If you found the Skoda diesel clatter annoying, the D4D probably won't be for you. It's not only clattery at idle but is also very sensitive to fuel; I normally use sainsburys diesel (Closest, cheapest) and it's clattery. Occasionally I put in V-Power diesel which is a lot quieter and smoother, but once I put in Esso diesel and the engine was so clattery even my mates were commenting and making tractor jokes Yeah, the 1.3 vs 1.33 thing is a bit weird. I'm hoping a few members who've had both can chip in with some differences. IIRC the main way to tell which one the car has is the 1.3 has 5 gears while the 1.33 has 6?

The D4D diesel actually has very few problems except ones caused by it being used only for short/urban journeys (EGR/throttle body soot, etc.). It's been the most bullet-proof of the Toyota diesel engines so far. IMHO it's easily the nicest engine in the range - The strong torque makes it very easy and pleasant to drive and it has a surprisingly wide rev-range for a diesel. The fact that the engine design is a good 10+ years old, yet can still match or even beat modern hybrids is a testament to its design. I love the mid-range acceleration on my Mk1; Want to overtake? Just floor it and I jump from 63 to 70 in a second. That variable turbo is awesome :D That said, it is probably the least refined engine of the diesels of that era; Very clattery. So if you don't like diesel clatter, that will annoy you. I will say this engine made me a diesel convert; Before that I'd ever have considered a diesel, but now that I have one it's hard to go back (Petrol engines feel soooo gutless when you're used to driving a diesel engine! The only thing that can save me is a hybrid or electric but... they're all automatic... ) The 1.3's are pretty nice too tho'; They are pretty close to the diesel, just without the high mpgs. Also tend to be a good chunk cheaper to buy which is a nice plus. One caveat - The 1.33 has better mpg, but from what people have said here it's not as nice an engine as the 1.3 and apparently feels less powerful, so check that. The 1.0 is also a very capable engine; I wouldn't recommend it so much if you're going to be on fast roads a lot, but for purely urban driving it's a nippy little unit and is up there with the D4D for economy. Both the petrol options are super reliable too.

We have two Yaris 1.4 D4-D, my wife and myself 58 plate and 59 plate. Been really good cars, returning 57-62 mpg regularly. And now diesel is cheaper then petrol, the way it should have been for years. The torque on a diesel makes it an easier car to drive then a petrol, and the acceleration is extremely good - check out the 0-62 figure.

Have a look at the following - http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/151076-tomtom-charger-plug-jammed-in-power-outlet-socket/ Seems the most painless approach is to pop into your Toyota dealer, nicely ask them whether they can remove it, and probably not use the same compressor in future

Hello Wayne - welcome to Toyota Owners Club The Honest John review will be a reasonable place to start as regards model differences (model history) and problem areas (Good & Bad) - http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/toyota/yaris-2006/ There is a For Sale section on Toyota Owners Club which covers cars for sale as well as accessories, etc - http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/23-for-sale/

Hi folks, seems like I started something over the alternator business. If it is possible to get home on a defunct alternator, one is able to locate used second hand parts. For example, my Avensis alternator blew, the cost of a Toyota replacement in the region of £300 plus the fitting of it. Well, on a petrol avensis it is very easy to replace the unit oneself. Do remember to remove the battery terminal NEGATIVE first before doing any work. I was quoted from £40 upwards for labour charges. Remove Battery terminal, 2 bolts (14 mm socket) - 1 top and 1 bottom of alternator - and 1 nut (10mm socket) on the electric leads, plus one connector (remove with care as not to break the housing, squeeze to remove), plus loosening off the belt tension which is NOT a nut but part of the front wheel housing that LOOKS like a nut (pull in clockwise motion with a decent size 19mm spanner). With the belt off, bolts and nuts removed - slide new to vehicle part in, refit the alternator top and bottom bolts, slacken off the 'tension' nut clockwise and slip the belt on. Connect the terminals to the alternator and connect the battery terminal. Job done is less than 30 minutes. Good thing to check the belt for wear and tear and it would be a good time to replace it approx £18. Second hand alternator in full working condition £50 odd, new belt £18, plus half an hours work. BY THE WAY, do make a NOTE, rough drawing of how the belt is seated before removing it if you are replacing it. Having a new belt that HAS to fit the right way is one thing, not knowing how it fits is another. Use a torch to check you have drawn the belt sequence correctly or you will suffer ... For what it is worth (a load of money but costs very little), one can obtain a Haynes workshop book on the vehicle through EBay or Amazon for a few pounds. Warning, do not attempt a job unless you are certain you can complete it

Thanks for that! Much appreciacted, will save me a good few pennies now. Ash

I would say so I have checked the part numbers for a t2 model and a t spirit model and the indicators are the same part number but the actual mirrors are different most likely due one being standard and one folding. RH 81730-05050 LH- 81740-05030

EV mode is where you press the switch and try to keep under traction battery power for as long as possible. Confusingly there is also an EV light which shows you are running on battery power only. You don't need to explicitly press the EV mode button in traffic. The car will switch on the EV light (but not the EV mode light) automatically in stop/start traffic. The car will do the work for you so just don't worry about it. I use the EV mode switch at switch on to get out of the garage and off the drive without starting the ICE. After that it sorts itself out once it has warmed up. I do encourarge the EV light to come on by deliberately easing off the accelerator until the EV light comes on. On level ground it will do this up to about 42mph. Driving on level ground below 40mph using the ICE is not very efficient, but hard to quantify. I have seen below 50mpg instantaneous mpg readout on level ground when the ICE is running. I think you get better mpg at 50mph on level ground (compared to 40mph or less) if the ICE is running (this is for an Auris). My thought is that the ICE is efficient when it is producing a certain minimum amount of power. The power required to run on level ground at 40mph or less is not enough to make the ICE efficient. As for running the engine up to 70mph within 1 minute of starting, of course it will do it. I wouldn't think it was especially good for the engine though, but we are talking long term wear here. In this case I would not start in EV mode. Let it warm itself up a bit before hitting the motorway. On the other hand, these cars use SAE 0W-30 oil which is really thin, and designed for stop start running. Maybe running the engine hard after 1 minute will cut down the engine's life from 300,000 miles to 200,000 miles. I wouldn't stress over it!