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aslong as from same shape as in t22 facelift and estate it should be fine. Toyota sometimes supersede.

Nice one, bud - keep us posted! I just bought a 3 years old 2012 Auris Hybrid myself (old shape) :)

Adding to my earlier reply, I have added photos to show how the indicator is removed. The first few pictutres show the location just behind the lights, from the top to push the screw driver through. The next set of photos show when pressing down on the retaining clip to release the lens, whilst pulling forward. Notice the retaining clip in the last two. Now you can see what to look for, and what is required to remove the indicator lens. This should take no more than a few minutes to change the lens.

Hi guys, Still new here and working my way through various threads and taking in everything. It's been two weeks since I picked up my Auris Hybrid Touring Sports (2013 model) and I thought I'd share a few thoughts in case someone stumbles upon this and is thinking of buying one. So far I've been very pleased. I came from an 05' plate Seat Ibiza so the increase in space is great - my greyhound now fits in the boot whereas in the Ibiza she was on the back seat getting hairs all over the cloth! The interior was one thing I was a little concerned about when doing my research since the vast majority of online or magazine reviews believe it looks cheap and feels hard. I can't agree with that at all. I love the light blue strips at either end of the dash (even if they do seem tricky to clean smudges and marks off) and the centre console is well laid-out and easy to use. Yeah, some of the plastics are a little hard but I don't spend my time pressing random parts of the dash while I drive around, and overall everything feels very, very well screwed together. In terms of ride it's nice and smooth and comfortable compared to my old Ibiza and it's a very relaxing drive. I've never been heavy with my foot, but if you're looking for a car that you want to rev hard and quickly accelerate in this won't be it - gentle, smooth driving is the way to go and it's rewarded. I'm averaging around 56mpg from my first 200 miles, which was mainly from 30mph roads. I'm pleased with that and hopefully I'll get more out of it once everything is bedded in. The sound system is excellent and this was one of the main things I was looking for when buying. I listen to music over bluetooth every time I drive and Spotify streaming is well-balanced and crisp when streaming in 'extreme quality' from the app. I didn't opt for the sat nav and haven't regretted it. I'm sure some love it but I rarely need one and when I do Waze or Google Maps is fine. So, all in all I feel like I made the right decision. My Dad, prior to the VW scandal, bought an Audi that's affected by it and now thinks hybrid was a sensible choice. For my driving, which is mainly small roads and little motorway driving, it suits perfectly.

Hi, Welcome to the club... Enjoy

Yes both part numbers should fit and are for the wagon. The part number you were sent is for the earlier version and your number is the later version. There is a cross over so they should fit and work. Changing the unit would be easy for me as I have removed the motor from my hatchback. You are right to query the part numbers, because of the hassle it can cause.

Not entirely accurate chaps. Stage 1 - Lightly Apply brake pedal. Power meter drops a little. Your using the regenerative braking - car starts to slow. Stage 2 - Apply further pressure to the pedal - power meter drops to bottom of the dial - your using maximum regenerative braking - car is slowing 'faster'. Stage 3 - Apply even more pressure to the pedal - Power meter needle remains at the bottom of the dial but now your using the conventional braking system as well as the regenerative system. Car slows faster still and stops. It's stage three that's wasting energy and turning it to heat and not recharging the battery ..NOT stages I and 2. Unless your light footed and or a Newbie it's likely that you'll blitz through stages 1 and 2 without realising it. Given familiarity with the car and some sensitivity in your foot....it's all there and it works.

Yeah, first hybrid and first Toyota and only my second car (technically third if you count the old Micra I shared with my mum when I passed my test). Agree about getting used to a new driving style, I do find myself being much more aware of how I'm driving. I get my kicks in the Auris by pulling up next to some chavs at the lights, popping into power mode and watching them disappear when I put my foot to the floor. Other than that I keep it sensible and mellow, find I get a lot less road rage too! Does yours have the blue dash or leather dash? If it has the blue have you also noticed dark smudges and marks appearing easily? Asked the garage to clean them when they handed the car over and they haven't been able to get rid of them with whatever they were using...

Have a look at the Armorall Protectorant spray range - just be aware that it comes in glossy, semi matt, and, I think, matt, so choose whichever suits the finish of the problem area. One can buy it from Halfords, etc. Might have to treat an area wider than the smudges.

The EPB is normally reliable. Just slow compared to old fashion handbrake. The worst thing about the Mk3 is no hatchback. The other bad thing is the motoring journalist call the car boring, as there is no real criticism of the car. Reliability is good. Scott mentioned the diesel head gasket issue, not heard much about transmission problems. It all depends how it was cared for and driven.

Great stuff Konrad, thanks a lot. I had a glance yesterday before posting here and seen that hex-head and thought that had to come out, then as I said I thought it was starting to look a bit complicated thinking about dropping bumpers. However that sounds and looks like a nice handy one for Saturday. Thank you again. :)

Not in EV, but in HV it'll stick to the 45MPH rule like the normal Gen 3. Well, if ICEis running it won't shut off unless you hit <45MPH or are below 60 and hit EV. In HV with ICE off you can get to 49MPH, and ICE kicks in at 50MPH.

I've only driven several hundreds of miles in Auris Hybrids, as opposed to 167k/50k/45k in Gen 1/2/3 Prius respectively (and a few thousand in Lexus and Honda Hybrids too), so whilst I can speak with a fair degree of confidence (but certainly not infallibility) about the first three versions of Prius, my knowledge of others is, shall we say more suspect. That said, I think the Auris behaves pretty much like a Gen 3 Prius - EV mode and running on electric only are not quite the same thing - whilst it is electric only when in EV mode, it can run on electric only at other times when the circumstances allow it. I think you'll find that you can go EV up to 30 (or somewhere between 20-30) if the engine in hot enough plus the inverter and HV battery temperatures are within the range that permits higher EV speeds. as above It might when running warm and electrics are not too hot (up to 30) If there's enough charge in the HV battery, temperatures are within allowed ranges and you stay in the bottom half (Auris/Yaris) / left half (Prius) of the ECO band on the Hybrid System Indicator it will try to use electric only.The Energy Monitor display updates at least once a second but I think it's still true that they hybrid system changes state more quickly than the display can tell, so different things may happen in between - the Gen 1 Prius display only refreshed every 2 seconds (it was right up against the limit of what 16 bit computing of the 1990s could cope with!) so it only showed a snapshot of what was going on. The EV indicator (as opposed to the "EV Mode is selected" light) is the nearest thing to gospel regarding electric only running.

No, if you're using the brakes then you're wasting energy turning it to heat and not recharging the battery. You never want to completely fill the charge indicator, if you are then you're wasting energy.

TBH whether your are in Normal, Eco or Power mode makes next to no difference to the economy if you have at least some control over your right foot ;) It mostly just changes the response times to your accelerator pedal - On Eco it's very sluggish, on Power it's very sharp. Normal is... normal. I think Eco does try to reduce the amount of time the ICE is on, but that can actually make the economy worse because the battery will spend more of its time mostly drained and not ready to provide torque when needed. The trick seemed to be keeping it in the Eco band on the power meter (As opposed to the Eco mode button) and conserving as much momentum as possible (e.g. leaving bigger gaps so you can absorb some of the start-stop-start-stop when in traffic, and also so you can brake earlier and lighter to maximise regen.) IMHO just stick to Normal and adjust your driving style, you'll be able to get to the 60's I'm sure :)

In the Yaris, the ECO MODE has a distinct effect on throttle response. Quick example. Normal mode: * idle/coasting * middle of ECO * top of ECO * middle of power * top of power ECO mode: * idle/coasting * 1/3 of ECO * 2/3 of ECO * top of ECO * top of power It also limits AC fan RPM and reduces AC power output (so it takes longer to cool/warm). Regarding the ICE warm-up: I have found that after the car is started and READY light is on, that if I push the accelerator in P, it will cause the ICE to start. Will this cause it to run in the warm-up mode? I have found by accident that the fuel economy seemed to be better by letting the ICE run like this first, waiting for it to stop, then driving (if I know I will be using it). I have yet to try this again (rather than simply waiting for READY). I have also noticed in town (30 MPH) that if the ICE is running, that the RPM will increase during what I can only assume is a period to charge the battery where the engine was only idling previously. I'm wondering now if the engine RPM is also higher during the beginning of a journey if driving and using the ICE in its warm-up period, which is why fuel economy is low at this point? If that's the case, then if going on a journey that is sure to cause the ICE to start, allowing it to complete the warm-up cycle whilst stationary seems to be the best option regarding fuel economy (given that the whole warm-up process is optimized precisely to get the ICE warmed up). It is able to run at the lowest RPM, and it doesn't have cold air blowing around it whilst it warms up. EDIT: Having actually driven a hybrid for a while, Joseph's link (post #9) makes a lot more sense. Given that the Yaris Hybrid is supposed to be just a smaller Prius system in basic operation, I'll try some of the suggestions in the link and see what happens. I certainly recognize all the apparent states that he talks about (they seem to be most noticeable if the car is cold and driving around town, particularly when it comes to the S3a/S3b states). I have also found times where the car has been running a while, the HV battery has good charge, yet it won't enter EV mode by lifting off (or the EV light will flicker on then off, then come on later by itself). It has the same behavior as if the HV battery is low on charge, yet it isn't.

Hi, HonestJohn's RealMPG says 49mpg for the saloon & 47 mpg for the Tourer. As a rule, very. Cracking of the front doors at the checkstrap. The potential for failure of the EPB actuator (to be fair this seems very rare but out of warranty is a £1000 fix). If built before the end of February 2009 the possibility of head/head gasket issues (again very rare but very expensive out of warranty) - supposedly after that fixed by changes.

ECO, EV, & PWR mode on the top part of the speedo display means that mode has been selected by the driver. The ECO & EV symbols that appear on the HSI (Hybrid System Indicator) and HUD (Head up Display) tell you what the car is actually doing, and are independent of the driver-selected mode. Some examples: in ECO Mode but HSI is in PWR area (right or top of gauge) - ECO symbol goes outcar is running on electric only and engine is off - EV symbol lights up *car is in NORMAL or PWR mode but you're accelerating very gently (HSI in left half) - ECO symbol lights upHybrids with the 1.8 litre petrol engine tend to have ECO, PWR & EV buttons (except PiP), Yaris Hybrid (1.5 litre) just has ECO and EV - I too struggle to notice any difference in ECO mode on the Yaris. * Note that under light load and good HV battery charge the cars sometimes run electric only at higher speeds, but above around 45 mph (1.8) or 42 mph (1.5) the petrol engine will be turning (just to keep the Motor Generators within prescribed RPM limits) but not burning fuel - in this state the EV symbol doesn't light up, but the instant mpg reading will be off the scale. If you're sensitive, you can feel a very slight tremor at the 45/42 mph boundary when slowing down without braking as the petrol engine stops.

Welcome to Toyota Owners Club, and Goodbye - enjoy your Volkswagen.

Well I for one am glad you made the right choice and went with the Avensis because if you got the Honda you may well have started sharing you experience, knowledge and willingness to help others with the Honda forum instead lol. At my work there's a rather attractive receptionist with an 06 T-spirit and our new Delivery Manager has a Tourer very similar to yours. I must admit,sneakingly that I find her T-spirit a better looking more complete looking car than mine but I prefer mine to the later car..... I wouldn't swap her car for mine but I'm tempted to swap her wheels for mine n see if she notices haha. Have had a mad,insanely busy summer at work which is why I haven't had the time to contribute here as I would have liked. The previous delivery manager threw a strop and a bottle of vodka down an aisle then walked back in June so it fell to me mostly to run things over the crazy period till the new guy started a few weeks ago but the overtime was great to the point where I had a few grand spare at the start of the month. Another car was a very tempting proposition but as I've been saying for sometime the next car I buy will be a project car which means almost definitely a late 70s, 80s Ford....... have been a Ford and later Vaughan man at heart but Ford's go back for me to when I was about 8 years old and we allowed to stay up till 9pm on a Sunday night (a school night, I ask you lol) to watch the Professionals....... every since then I've only ever had one dream car. If I won the jackpot on the lottery or even had a spare 5 grand laying around I'd buy a mk2 RS2000.......even if I won millions you can keep your Ferrari, Lambourghinis, M3s or M5s (although the early 80s M535is and the original E30 M3s are pretty tasty lol) and a Bugatti Veron??? No bloody thanks, give me a mk2 RS2000 with a solid body I could work on. i.e convert the rear to take the Sapphire IRS and a Cosworth motor up front and that is my idea of a perfect car...... though the original 70s Celica would be an attractive choice as well with a couple of mil in the bank lol. £2000 doesn't get you much of an RS2000 these days but a mk3 Escort (I had one of the first XR3is and an RS1600i which was an exceptional car) is another one I hanker after...... also owning almost all versions of mk1 Fiesta except a Supersport and a RWD Sapphire Cosworth in the past I'm always looking out for a mk1 Feesty or a Sapphire as a project but in the end a great deal of it's been thrown at my vvti instead starting with the coilovers, cylinder head, new pistons, rings, bearings, top end gasket kit, timing chain kit, tyres etc, etc, etc plus tools, a new laptop with software to refresh n chip ECUs (if it ever bloody arrives from the US lol). I liked my old 7A-FE GS and it won my everlasting respect after taking a full boiling of the cooling system without even minor damage..... just a cooling system gasket. That made me opt for the 52 plate vvti when it needed replacing though I may have had thought twice of I had an inkling of the vvti reputation beforehand but thankfully I hadn't a clue and bought I. Have always liked it but since I put it back on the road in March after many months off the road while I got it fit for the MOT a bit at a time I've gone from having a real soft spot for it to loving it to bits.It's not my usual kind of car, it's not a Ford or Vauxhall for a start nor is it a high performance model like the XRs, RSs,SRis,GSis and Cosworths that I've always gone for...... neither a hothatch, sports saloon or a fastback/coupe type like the Capris that I've gone for in the past (In fact I've owned around 25 Capris and Cavaliers in total alone lol) but I love that vvti engine and everytime I've talked about tuning my Avensis people just give a kind of 'must be a bit of a fool who knows nothing at all' look.... I mean why would you modify an Avensis especially a mk1 but that's exactly the point, no one does or would think too. Yes, Accords are fine cos of the Type Rs and the Vtec motor but not a vvti Avensis for f@%k sake !!!!!. The vvti is the superior engine to my mind that with some significant but sensible modifications could be even better and while the mk1 isn't the coolest or prettiest looking of cars they do look OK, mine has been vastly improved by being lowered, though adjusted since the photos I put up at the weekend I hasten to add. Am very glad and releived it is, I always thought if you lowered a mk1 Avensis but more importantly levelled it out so it didn't have that higher rear end/forward slanted stance they tend to have the look would be so. much better. It would have been an expensive mistake if it didn't lol. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Hi Alan, I have a replacement indicator in the garage, I am unsure what side it is I can check if its passenger side, it is fully working, I can do it for £10 posted within uk mainland to help a fellow member.

In my case, I estimate that somewhere between 50% & 60% of my total mileage is on short journeys of just a few miles.