Jump to content
Do Not Sell My Personal Information


Leaderboard

  1. oldcodger

    oldcodger

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      2,608


  2. AndrueC

    AndrueC

    Established Member


    • Points

      3

    • Posts

      1,111


  3. FROSTYBALLS

    FROSTYBALLS

    Management


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      30,206


  4. furtula

    furtula

    Established Member


    • Points

      2

    • Posts

      1,886


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2021 in all areas

  1. clean and re lube the bonnet catch, if you look at the latch you will see where the cable pulls the lever make sure that arm is full returning, due to its location in gets hit by all the crud off the road what sticks to the grease edit. Also make use the return spring is still attached
    2 points
  2. I just use my right foot.
    2 points
  3. WD40 is a good penetrating agent, but not really for lubricating, and lubricating properties are short term. So it's a good idea to use it to get the mechanism working propperly, but then apply some oil, or grease to it instead, whatever you got, even some engine oil is ok.
    1 point
  4. Inspect the mechanism, clean and apply some grease to the mechanism, then try it.
    1 point
  5. They will all get you a speeding ticket if thats you bag
    1 point
  6. Both the 1.8 and 2.0 have more than enough power for a sensible driver in normal conditions.
    1 point
  7. Morning, Just thought id say Hi. I'm back to running an Aygo in the Javelin Sprint Series (Including the Toyota Sprint Series!) after a few years sabbatical (As well as getting a long awaited Kidney Transplant!) I used to use a Swift Sport, and latterly an Aygo in the series, as well as using for my daily driver I'm missing the championship, as well as the competing, and the last one I did at Cadwell Park in my old Aygo, it filled me with plenty of ideas, so it was inevitable! Hope to get a thread going as soon as I collect the car and restrictions allow. Thanks, Steve (PS My old Aygo at Cadwell Park in 2019 is attached)
    1 point
  8. Think I would suspect the spiral cable inside the steering wheel /column, or some other wiring down there, but you need to have all other points checked properly before having that replaced. You can see what iI mean in this video , skip throgh to about 7mins on . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VblczY9PzMc
    1 point
  9. Don't recall any particular issues being reported for the Auris on Toyota Owners Club, and nothing on Honest John reviews (1st and 2nd generation). There have been some issues reported for the second generation Yaris. I had two Auris with the six speed from new over a period of seven years, and no problems.
    1 point
  10. You picked the better option, the fault may never happen again therefore don’t worry too much and enjoy your new car. 👍🚙
    1 point
  11. Hi, Have a listen, or check with a multimeter, if you can hear the relay clicking when the ignition is on and your press the horn button. If nothing then suspect the fault is around the steering wheel. However you need to take extreme care and follow a battery / airbag disconnection routine before doing any work around that area as you could set the airbag off, even causing serious injury. Probably a job for a garage/auto electrician. Diagram below is from a later model but expect its very similar to yours.
    1 point
  12. £310 parts and labour for a new alternator and belt. This is in London so it might be a bit more expensive compared to the rest of the UK.
    1 point
  13. Firstly Catlover Joe, I never realised the 12v battery was charged by the hybrid battery & that my Prius doesn’t have an alternator. I was cleaning my 2016 Gen4 Prius a couple of weeks ago. It started as normal but when I tried to blow the tyres up with my tyre inflator, the car went completely dead. I didn’t think it could be the battery as my previous Prius battery was the best part of 7 years old & I sold it with the original battery. I called the Toyota breakdown out & he immediately identified it was a flat battery! He checked it out & said the readings he was getting were showing that the battery was only 55% efficient & needed replacing. Like most people, I’m not using my car much at the moment but I never risk anything with any car I’ve ever had. I believe if it needs fixing it has to be done ASAP, preferably by as in this car’s case by a Toyota garage. However, on this occasion since my garage is now 40 miles away, I nipped to our local Halfords who verified the battery needed changing & it was all sorted within an hour. The guy fitting the battery said I was lucky the battery lasted over 4 years but reassured me I had a 5 year guarantee with the one he sold me. I have to say this is the only time I’ve called out Toyotas breakdown service in all the times I’ve ever owned a Toyota & it actually rates as just about the only problem I’ve ever had with both of my Prius cars. Not bad going really.
    1 point
  14. Yes. The Gen 1 Prius had quite a severe parasitic drain. A really strong battery, fully charged when left, would be lucky to last much over 3 weeks without regular driving. A half hour in READY Mode every week or so should be enough to keep it topped up as long as it's in good condition. These very cold days this week will make matters a bit worse too. A Gen 1 Prius I had from 2002 to 2011 still had the original 12V battery in it when I sold it, so they can sometimes last a fair while. Locking with the key instead of the remote will help the charge last slightly longer if, for example, the car is locked in a garage and you're not concerned about the alarm being deactivated. Every time a 12V lead-acid battery is allowed to go flat it is likely to degrade the plates inside and it will hold a little less charge each time this happens. Leaving it flat for several days (or longer) may kill it completely.
    1 point
  15. You could join Toyota's 5+ Club to get 20% off services and MOTs. Continuing with Toyota servicing will mean you may get goodwill from Toyota in the event of a major issue with the car - independent servicing will wipe this out.
    1 point
  16. Hi Again, Missed your comment about the "little rust" mot failure. Well they all have some rust, just wonder if your mot tester has been over zealous ? to fail it would indicate serious corrosion leading to failure soon, so wonder why an advisory was not given ? If it literally is just surface rust , which mine has, might be easier to clean it up and use some rust proofer and put it in for a MOT at a council testing station where you will get an unbiased test. As you can see from that video you really need a car lift to give access to easily remove the subframe, could be done with some high ramps , but you need a lot of support. Might be worth asking another garage for a price to do the work, you can show them that video as to whats involved. Out of interest, what about the rear axle beam ? they seem to rust much quicker than the front subframe.
    1 point
  17. Because of this thread, I've been paying attention to these beeps now. You're right Tony - I think it is related to the low temp and ice-on-road warnings. Plus the speed camera alert. Not to forget the beeps when you stray into a road lane divider... 🙄
    1 point
  18. Low air temperature outside and possibility of ice on the road. , maybe is just that.👍🚗
    1 point
  19. Thanks everyone, I've got the Apple CarPlay working now, soo that's an achievement. Not that we can go anywhere to use it for now .....
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership