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As above mileage and driving pattern are relevant. Unfortunately when faults like this occur, some garages will treat the symptoms (blocked DPF) rather than establishing the cause of the blockage. This is expensive and largely pointless from your perspective as it costs you a grand and you still have the same issue. First thing to do is to speak to the garage who did the work, explain that you have the same issue again and that you would like to know what steps they took to establish the cause of the problem. If they haven’t checked for air leaks, injectors, stripped and cleaned the EGR and checked the correct oil type has been used and run a manual regen, then they’re - at best - not competent to work on this issue. The DPF blocking is a symptom of an upstream fault, it’s not the actual fault.

I have changed my rear brake pads, and when winding back the pistons (left and right handed as using the kit shown), makes sure the piston cut outs are horizontal to the caliper when you finish! This is important at it aids fitting the caliper over the new pads, which have a nipple on the back of the pads. If the caliper has to be forced on, then the piston or inner brake pad will be force to work at an angle, causing the pad to wear at a slant or the piston jam against the inside of caliper bore. The inner pad will wear faster than the outer pad, but because it is not as visible as the out brake pad, not easy to spot! Apart that, no diagnostic should be needed when replacing the rear brake pads. Not everyone has diagnostics anyway, plus using the wrong diagnostic tool can cripple the auto parking brake, as I learnt to my cost. Wrong diagnostics reset will delete the zero point setting of the g-force and clutch settings, giving warning/fault lights and message. The parking brake can only be operated manually, using the button. I fixed it myself using Techstream.

Don't apologise - that was very interesting. Keep it coming, please.

Yesterday I had a couple of short trips to check out the car, all good I’m pleased to say and just enhanced my conclusions after the test drive. The car said we’d returned a hybrid equivalent of 51.7mpg over optimistic I know but still better than I thought it might be. The traction battery was down to the reserve when we picked up the car so charged it overnight using one of the supplied cables, mains plug to Mode 2 type 2, and that worked OK. I had spent time also yesterday registering the Navigation system and setting up the Toyota on-line account. I managed to get it done but it’s complex, about 8 stages, luckily I’m not phased by such things and managed to work though and got it set up. So this morning when I did the early run to Sainsbury’s I set the cars heating cooling remotely via the MyT app to 20 degrees that also worked well and it was nice to get into a comfortable car also the misted windows had cleared due to the internal heat. In the winter I can switch on the front and rear window heaters. This is all because the car was tethered to the car via the mains charging cable and uses the cars heat pump not resistive heating. It uses the house power rather than the traction battery so that remained at 100%. Very quiet except for the reversing sound, you have to hear it to believe it and seems to owe something from “Star Wars”. I did try forcing the ICE on but as the battery was 100% it would not start as I think that once the engine fires the sound is cut. I’ve seen a few reports of people trying reduce the volume but all seem to have failed, there no volume settings and I understand no OBD setting that can be changed. Apologies if this all is normal to the forum members but it’s all very new to me.

They call it progress! So wasteful of a resource and energy making a part. DRL's on my Volvo, have separate bulbs, and takes minutes to change like your moggy! I have a 1996 Volvo 940 petrol auto estate and it's easy to maintain and keeps on going. My Van for work. Bad part though is 25-33mpg. Road tax around £270 a year. Like my Auris too, as good on fuel and zero road tax. Auris on 34,000 now, bought at 27,000. Volvo on 205,000miles. Had it 5 years now. 1989 Volvo 240GLT auto petrol for 10 years prior, sold that at 234,000. Still on the road. Chose a Toyota, as don't rate newer Volvo's and bought Toyota like my Volvo as a reliable, A-B car. Biggest thing in the last 20-30 years is massive improvements in crash safety. My Volvo even though has ABS and drivers airbag, windscreen pillar would fold in. Much, much safer in the Auris, even though I notice in the crash tests the screen pillar/ a weld join? flexes and breaks the screen. James.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393336880738?hash=item5b94b47e62:g:YDsAAOSwP61gpwN7 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174651230390?hash=item28aa0648b6:g:uugAAOSwXQJgNjTE

Is this what you are looking for: Genuine Toyota RAV4 Fusible Link Block Assembly Box 2000-2005 8262042030 (eBay link) Yours looks as though it has suffered a previous bodge repair - probably best replaced! Edit: Oops, no ... that looks like an empty box to hold the Fusible Link? ... you [also] need the Fusible Link!

Hopefully this gives a clearer view of the rear edge of the dealer supplied space saver tyre...

Why would it need a warm air from the engine?! I think this is wrong and perhaps it’s not designed for that in mind., usually ice needs oxygen rich air (colder air) for better fuel burning., better burning equals more power and less emissions., I believe that’s the reason for inter cooler on turbo engines. I also had my best fuel consumption recorded in negative temperatures after long drives at nights. The biggest worry about air intake should be any possibility of water been sucked and destroyed engine, anything else comes as not that important to me. Toyota seems to be doing well in these terms. Love to watch that channel 👌😉

Chain ?? The heat will melt a plastic cable tie either use mechanics wire (aka safety wire) or a stainless steel cable tie to hold it and/or wrap it in exhaust wrap

Yes Toyota Safety Sense. It comes up now and again with BRAKE! on my screen and I do. However, I'm not sure I'd trust it enough to stop the car for me in an emergency. Good old fashioned attention on the road and slam on the anchors for me!

Position car in garage, attach tennis ball to string, hang from roof so that ball just touches windscreen. Perfect position every time. Now, that is safety sense! The system is so clever that it senses that the car is 75mm clear, front and/or rear, then applies the brakes?

not even for traffic wardens? 😁

You should provide your experience with Toyota GB. If you don't, the dealer will continue to treat customers like this

Thanks for the info and opinions guys. I went for a Toyota Approved car from a dealership to have the peace of mind that the car has all parts expected with the trim or at least the absence of something would be pointed out. I have not owned a Toyota Corolla or estate before but based on the pics, reviews and test drive it seemed a really good choice. And it really is a smart 'little' car. Only this piece appears to be missing. Perhaps I should have watched loads of videos just like TonyHSD, then I would have picked up that it was missing. Anyway, I called the dealership, but the dealer I dealt with was not in - fingers crossed for tomorrow. And Frosty, I get your point, but i did not put the boot full as it would be at home and check how much of it is visible. The retractable cover was up and I tested that it works. However it just did not occur to me that there would be another piece missing. As said, fingers crossed for tomorrow with the dealership. At least yesterday evening i found a nearby Corolla TS which has this part and saw in real life.

Thank you for the many replies. I have a pre facelift, righthand drive (I live in Luxembourg) model. The front bumper was recently replaced following a chance encounter with a low post in a carpark. The offside (driver side for the UK) headlamp was smashed up too. I had it the repair done by a small local garage rather than going to one of the specialist chains. To boot my wife threw away their invoice/receipt. As far as I can remember they replaced the entire offside headlamp unit but now claim that the problem is a result of the impact and thus requires a new headlamp. The car is now 6 years old and due for replacement soon. But for the fact that the daylights are required for the local equivalent of the MOT test I would just live with iti.

It's a sign of the times James. My Yaris has a string of red fairy lights which are rear lights and brake lights combined. They vary in intensity(brighter) when braking. If/when they pack up it's, like your DRLs, a new light assembly. Plus bumper moulding off to remove them! Absolutely crazy and another way to fleece a customer - not just Toyota may I add. Fortunately the reversing lamps and direction lamps are "conventional" and easy to change. Apples and pears, I know, but I've just changed the dynamo on my 1962 Morris Minor, 3 bolts/nuts, remove belt, disconnect 2 push on connectors. 15 minutes job. Rear light lamps, 2 screws, remove lens, replace lamp.

OK. Here are some images of the boot area of a 2019 Corolla Hybrid 1.8 Design hatchback. I requested the space saver wheel & accessories be included as part of the delivery so this is what you get if you ask for it at the ordering stage. I've included a couple of shots of the floor panel that goes on top so you can see how high up it sits - just about level with the top of the coloured bodywork outside. When the seats are folded down the whole surface area sits at this level and produces a large flat, level surface. There have been many questions on this issue. I hope these photos help folks visualise what the space saver looks like and what does to the boot space.

Why would you want to fit a rear spoiler? The additional drag will result in increased fuel consumption and the downforce could be easily achieved by a few bags of sugar in the back.

I'm not quite sure what it is you're looking for, when you refer to 'cable charge'. If you want the percentage of time spent running on electric power then you've found it - that's the EV driving ratio. However, that's not the same as 'cable charge' because it also includes all the time spent in 'milkfloat mode' when running in HV. I can start with an empty battery and still hit 60+% EV driving ratio because HV mode is so brilliant with regen. If you're looking for the total time spent charging, or miles driven in pure EV mode, I'm not sure either are recorded by the car in a way that allows them to be displayed, or at least I haven't found them yet. 🙂 Edited to say, unless the Eco Diary bit records EV miles separately like it shows mpkwh separately? I don't poke around in the EV bit of that much, so maybe it has the details there.

Glad you got it sorted, and thanks for the follow-up