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My first Toyota hybrid was the Auris the wife has, 17” wheels. Second hybrid was a Gen3 Prius, 17” wheels. Then I started to hear 17” wheels gave a harder ride, and I got thinking at my age I want a comfier ride. I loved the hybrids so much I decided to get the Gen4 and I wanted leather interior, JBL sound system and Hypersonic Red. The Excel was the only model that I could get that, and standard wheels were….. 17”. So I started looking round for a used Prius in that spec. Like looking for hens teeth. UNTIL I found one in Solihull, 100 miles from where I live. So went down to Solihull, there was this lovely red Prius with leather seats and JBL sound AND sat on 15” wheels. It was an Excel with 15” wheels. I sorted a trade in deal and got it the following week. The ride on 15” is so much comfier, get more mpg and replacement tyres are cheaper. So test to ensure you get what you want from the car. And do make sure the model you buy has all the toys you can’t live without. ps Toyota still sell the Prius in the uk, and a PHEV version (petrol hybrid electric vehicle) which goes about 38 miles on a charge then the hybrid system kicks in ideal for shorter journeys, many folk on do journeys less then 40 miles return, infrequently doing more, so very fuel efficient.

"outlast the automatic in terms of reliability" In my view this statement is untrue and I would like to know where it comes from.

I had the same problem with the Mk4 - Only comes with 16 or 17 inch rims in this country, and if you want the HUD you are stuck with 17"s. I knew you could get 15" rims in other countries, but had a right heck of a time trying to get specs or even a part number as my typically useless local dealers were unable to help until I thought to ask PartsKing and he got me it straight away! (Thank you again!) I'm still waiting for a booking slot as annoyingly the parts only arrived recently as they apparently had to special order them from the continent, and now they're booked solid for the next 2 weeks...! I really don't understand what Toyota GB's thinking is - Why would anyone who bought a hybrid want bigger rims when they make the car worse in every way? (Acceleration - Worse, Braking - Worse, and the main desire of most prospective hybrid owners; MPG - Worse!!) The sort of people who'd want stupidly low-profile tyres would never buy a Hybrid - They'd get the GR4! As for the automatic thing, I generally dislike automatics, but the hybrids don't drive like automatics... Well, my Mk4 at least, drives more like an EV (Admitted with a very growly angry sounding engine!). Then again I am getting old... 😄 It's funny but everyone seems to slate hybrids for reliability, saying things like complex and there're two engines to go wrong etc., but they are consistently more reliable than normal cars and even EVs, so go figure...

It does have a head unit its almost single din with a large screen and a cover on the back The gear selector surround is 1 piece with the 12V Aux socket in it RHD or LHD ? https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/33b18bde-3fa8-46d6-8121-9516e194cb6b/Yaris_Center_Console_PW281_0D00X_XX_AIM_004_993_3.pdf

It would be the 2.0, Mike - only that engine config comes with steering wheel paddles. I have the 1.8 engine in an Excel hatchback. In my research before buying this car a year ago, I test drove both. You can get a bit more welly accelerating in the 2.0 and it can make a difference when getting past a truck, say, in a hurry. For me, that wasn't of much interest as a reason to go for the slightly bigger engine that added £1200 to the car price. I like the 1.8 - plenty of horses for my use and terrific fuel economy.

On the corolla front grades are Icon, Icon Teck, Design, Excel, GR And TREK. GR sport has sport bodykit and 18 inch wheels plus equipment same as Design. Believe Excel is highest grade. Toyota Corolla Specifications & Prices | carwow I like the trek model as lighter interior seats. Icon Teck is all you really need and smaller wheels. Available in 1.8 and 2 litre engines. I also like the colour scarlet flare or denim blue. James.👍

Welcome into the Kingdom of Hybrid you former sinner!😊 Smaller wheels and higher Tyre profile give a more comfortable ride. Sports will be firmer than you might want. You must try each Grade if you are investing your own money and put your health and common sense before all goodies.

Now i no longer have the daily commute, most of my trips are fully EV. Even in winter using the heated seats and air source heat pump.

And it is very likely since it sounds like Prius with broken clutch damper springs, or these just got loose for some reason, poor quality part or workmanship. This video might be helpful.

Ah well, at least we get an invoice. We learn that 20% VAT on nothing is nothing.

Just a heads up for those of you who want the latest map update. It's another 12gb download like the previous one.

Hi guys just wanted to introduce Bellatrix my toyota hiace super custom. She is a dream and so much fun for my family 😍

B mode is mainly there to give extra control when descending hills, but will usually give worse fuel consumption because it causes the engine to create extra drag by compression in the cylinders without adding any fuel. Because of this, there's less energy left to turn the Motor/Generator so less energy goes into the battery. Back in the early Prius days some owners with electrics backgrounds connected am ammeter to the car and proved it. B Mode only makes a difference when decelerating and you'd have to use it a lot to see a measurable difference in mpg. In 19 years and over 330,000 miles in Hybrids, I've only found B mode genuinely useful a handful of times on holidays in places like Scotland, Devon and Isle of Man on very long, very steep hills after the HV battery had 'maxed out' (that is reached the charge state that Toyota has set as an absolute maximum [100% of the battery gauge, about 80% true]). This condition only occurs some time after the 8th bar lights up on the gauge. The only other very rare time has been in snow/ice to help give more controlled braking. I believe (but am not 100% certain) S-mode also adversely affects economy, but the level of braking can be varied by selecting a different 'gear'. Unlike B Mode it also makes an apparent difference when cruising or accelerating very gently by artificially changing the engine revs, but once you give it some welly the CVT takes over regardless of which 'gear' is selected. Apart from a brief spell of experimenting, I've never yet found a use for S Mode, but haven't driven on big enough hills to max out the battery in a car equipped with S Mode.

As Tony said B is used for going downhill, it’s not for general braking. And Yes you can select or deselect B while you are moving. Rounfd the part of Cheshire not many hills, but get round Macclesfield and I went down a hill with B assisting with braking (you probably still be using foot brake). There was a big artic in front of me and he had to stop as his brakes were smoking, the smell was horrible. In an earlier post, after your test drive, you mentioned the drive was most relaxing. That’s how I find driving the Prius, sooooo relaxing.

Thanks for all the help and advice, really appreciated.

But the Honda hybrid is vastly different to the Toyota hybrid system. The Toyota system acts like a EV at times, then assists engine power at other times, then again at times the engine drives the wheels. With the Honda the electric motor assists the engine. Like what is called mild hybrid on a lot of hybrids today. Because of the system Toyota it has a record of very good mpg.

When you get to know the Toyota hybrids and it’s history over the past 20+ years you will come to know that the hybrid auto is nothing like other auto boxes. And there are Prius on the road with 200,000miles and even 300k miles on the clock, and still running.

Picked her up on Friday, big smiles so far.

Kidology rather than real function and a chance to market the higher spec (profit). When we bought our Corolla it was from a clean sheet and most gadgets were novel. The salesman matched the high spec 2005 car for a near spec 2020 Corolla that met our price spec too. The only thing he pushed was a red car in the show room in January but was happy to accept a 1st March delivery.

Hi, if I pick a Corolla will probably be a trek or design with 17” wheels which suits the car best, even 16” are good looking and probably most efficient and comfortable but not available on these two grades. The trek wins over even design as comes with smart entry and automatic tailgate, these two extras are really useful. 👍

Other than chance, is there an official way to get a notification? I am not sure how Auto Update would work as I don't routinely sit in the car in the garage with power on.

As well as the above, the lower profile tyre with with a wider contact patch will have an inferior coefficient of drag. A small difference, but still sometimes quoted in the brochure specs for a specific car. For example; Lexus CT200h with 15" wheels - Cd = 0.27 With all other wheels Cd = 0.28. Splitting hairs here, but the Cd is actually probably the same, the Cd x (frontal) Area is a bigger number - the car presents a wider frontal area. Most people don't talk about CdA, just Cd, probably for simplicity. The CdA of a wider wheel will be worse. At least that's how I see it. Also as the fuel consumption figure improves, a small change in the fuel burnt makes a big difference to the mpg number! As in, the difference between 20 mpg and 30 mpg is a lot of fuel (in terms of cm3, fl.oz etc). The difference between 60 mpg and 70 mpg is much smaller amount of extra fuel burned. I seem to remember a few years back, that an average mpg for a large lorry is around 9 mpg, but a lorry achieving 9.9 mpg is really worth talking about - it's a big difference!

Yessss it f'ing worked! 😄 It's so much !Removed! easier when you have instructions! Luckily I've taken apart enough Yaris dashes to I know you can just happily yank on the trim pieces without worrying about breaking them, but just knowing which bits are together and which bits you have to take out first makes it sooo much easier! Turns out the steps I missed was taking out the USB port/airbag indicator panel and the upper tray trim - It doesn't look like you need to take those out, but they foul some of the clips if not removed first. Had a bit of a pants wetting moment when I had to put the gear shifter to N to get the panel out proper, as it blocks it in P, but then forgot to put it back in P before starting the car, which set off a whole load of scary warnings about the airbags, drive train, etc. having faults and GOTO DEALER IMMEDIATELY!!!111one, but after some initial panic because the car wouldn't let me turn it off, used my brain and slid the panel back in, put it back in P and then was able to turn the car off again. Phew! Seems no harm done as with everything put back in and connected up, I have power and everything seems to be back to normal... Must admit, loving the new-style clips they're using rather than the friction-fit ones they used in the older Yarises - Just squeeze the release and slide out! So much easier in tight spaces than the wiggle-wiggle-swear-wiggle-wiggle removal method I had to use in the past! Thanks so much flash! Hero of the hour! 👍 Now I'm going to have a cold shower and an ice cream... working on fiddly cramped bits of a Yaris isn't fun at the best of times but when the sun's turning the interior into a green house... yuck!

Just get the stuff from Morrisons, or Tesco..It's all the same..But a lot cheaper..

Toyota tech's search can be hit-and-miss especially if it has not been categorized

I find if you let it do its thing on a straight it eventually settles, but sometimes it does veer a bit too close to the left/right-side while it's settling which forces you to correct or risk scaring other road users. Strong shadows confuse the hack out of it tho' - I had to turn it off and just use the radar cruise alone on the way home yesterday because it kept beeping at me because of the alternating tree shadows confusing it. So glad they put the button for this on the steering wheel! Shows a real person tested it and thought it would be beneficial for the driver to have a dedicated quick-access control toggle! Tesla - Take note! I have been using it extensively in my daily journeys during the boring bits, but always take over when things start to get 'interesting'...! I'd rate it 75% effective, but as it's meant as a driving 'assist' and not self-driving I guess that's okay. It does make runs up the M1 a lot less fatiguing!

I went to the trouble of using the awkward store interface and then realised my USB stick was at work, so I tried the OTA update. That went OK, once i'd figured out how to get online, but it is only 190MB, so does anybody know what am I getting with the OTA update? Answering my own question, it said at the end, GB/IE.

Prius plus yes, the idea of self-charging hybrid I believe can be extended without going into the Prius plus field, similar to what we have now only fill up with petrol but even mote efficient set up., larger battery, less total weight of the car, more efficient petrol engine. 👍

I've done it once but I'm not a fan of boing burnout with this type of cars it's clearly not meant to do that lmao Yeah it works pretty well and the 1 liter isn't bad at all Thanks for all the informations!! 😄

Why left drive shaft? Well, on my old Avensis left drive shaft had a rubber resonance damper on it, but the right one didn't and it started to corrode under it. Eventually there wasn't enough metal left to take the force of acceleration. But you check if your car has them! As for the cost of replacing a drive shaft, around 200 euros.

As above, it has an open diff - snap a drive shaft or strip the CV joint, and you lose all drive, 1st gear pull away puts the drive train under the most stress

My guess is left drive shaft has broken. This happened to mine about 3 years ago.

And what a palaver it was as usual. The billing summary form seems to have a mind of its own. The telephone numbers default to +32 xx xx xx xx and it took me four or five attempts before it finally accepted my number. I think it needs +44 on the front but who knows, really? And now it's impossible to find a download link. Update: Found it. It's under 'inactive purchases'. God above! And I have to confirm T&Cs again! J H *****! I've posted this before: Toyota need to get someone competent to sort out their stupid eStore. Has the designer never experience a proper eCommerce site?

Just couple weeks ago Toyota UK announced a new plan that extends what was the cars 5 year warranty up to 10 years so long as you have car serviced at the right intervals by Toyota themselves. Further, a new car now has a 3 year warranty (not 5 year) and the discounted servicing for Toyota cars over 5 years has gone. The new plan is called Reflex and you can read about it on this forum or got to Toyota uk online.

Hi. I can help with that. I have one of those in my Auris hatchback. Toyota part number is confirmed as: PZ434-E2300-PJ Photo below. Hope this helps.

So this is interesting. With no MOT cover, breakdown cover and now the end of the 5 + Club, is the new TOYOTA Relax warranty really that much better over the five years? Seems like TOYOTA are giving with one hand but taking away with another. Not really worthy of the 'excited' press statements perhaps?

It might help to compare your gen3 fitment to any similar gen3 Prius ones, if you can, by taking a photograph or three of the installation and posting them on here. A few owners of Catloc-equipped Aurises have had similar problems, but not quite as bad as yours. Every genuine Toyota-supplied Catloc will be designed for a specific car model, so comparisons across different models is only of limited use. The genuine items are quite substantial, and a have very different set of attachment points compared to the popular generic devices from eBay etc. In this ground clearance situation, the more shallow eBay ones win by using a much simpler design. As to which type is the better deterrent or protection remains to be seen. I imagine the noise when yours grounds must be horrendous, whenever anything grounds out, it always does, even if it turns out to be something that isn't particularly serious! I can't see why the protruding excess bolt thread (you mention) on the mounting bolts can't the removed by the dealer. It wouldn't take them very long.

Just bought a 2019 aygo. Tyre warning light came on on the first day. Taken back to dealers who cannot find a fault. No loss of tyre pressure, re set numerous times and still comes on . Weather has been mild, so not the cause. Totally frustrated with problem. Please can anyone help

Car, year of production?