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Arrived at the dealership this morning just in time to see my dynamic awdi being unloaded from the transporter, had to look away in case it the driver miss judged it!!! Don’t realise how dirty they get in transport. Only taken eight months one week to arrive “not long “ PDI now then it’s mine. sorry to sound gloating.

Been to sign the paperwork today, with collection arranged for Friday. Works nicely, as working away next week, and don't think the fiesta would have made it!

Yes, my keyless CHR is same. It just beeps and refuses to lock with key inside car. Will have a go on the Yaris Design and report back. 👍

Your right, the 90bhp is the TSi and is turbo. However I did a typo, and it should have been the wife’s is 15bhp LESS. IF it had been a TSi it would have been mine!

Just here to vouch for Wynns cat and O2 sensor cleaner. It helped a lot with some surging / vibration issues I had a while ago.

The wife has the Turbo one then!! We used to have a 75hp Seat Mii and found it a fine 2nd car, much more space than the daughter's 108 (2016 Aygo clone), perhaps as much rear legroom as the Yaris mk4

why don't you use this solution? https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/car-charger/connect-eyelet-m8 or https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/indicator-eyelet-m8

Planning around topping up the EV is something that maybe a younger generation or coffee lover might be OK with but for many switching to that mode of trip planning would be a big step. I’m just so used to having tank range that will get me to most places in the UK without stopping or only a when I choose to it, having to constantly monitor the battery level would be a massive mental turn around. People with EV’s seem to have to plan longer trips with meticulous care not just for a target charge station but back ups if that is not available or being used. Having looked at a few Tesla 120kW super charging stations it must be a very expensive business as not only are the customer stations required but a small sub station to supply them. They seem to be configured to get pretty near the maximum power for each car attached.

Same here, when the engine response 'feels' more sluggish and/or low/mid range torque is less I add 1 measure of Redex the next time I fill the tank.

My experience of both Mk1 & Mk2 models is that the first bar takes about 100 miles to go out, the second about 80, the third about 60, etc. The 'best guess' is that when only the last bar is lit (and flashing)you'll have about 40 miles left, and when it starts beeping as well as flashing then you've got 20 miles left. The best range I've ever got from a full tank is just over 400 miles, but I'm not an economical driver! In nearly 45 years of car ownership I've never had a car with a linear fuel gauge.

Better sooner than later. I do my changes at 6k miles, and if driven a lot during summer the oil can be nasty. Would not recommend doing it as Americans do, every 3k miles or so, i don't know if they use cooking oil in their cars or something, needing to change it that often. Looks more like some enforced trend by oil changing places, and people being too naive to believe them.

Do report the missing trip in the support section of the MyT app. Unless Toyota are aware of the issue nothing will change. It seems to me that if the car is switched into a 'maintenance mode' then it surely be just as easy to switch it back at the end of the service/update rather than the 24 hour default reset. My intention is that the next time I have the car into the garage for a service or recall I will check to see that I can connect to the car via the MyT app and complain to the dealer there and then.

Do you think I'm mad??!! 😉 (I had the other key in low power mode in my pocket just in case!!)

The comparison is very useful ... it suggests that the bZ4X is just a tad longer, just a tad wider but not quite as tall as the RAV4.5. The length doesn't bother me, but I'd rather not go wider again. Toyota seems keen to quote widths excluding door mirrors, and not widths including door mirrors, and I generally find that I would rather take the door mirrors with me when going through gaps ... 😉

Picked the car up today. Very pleased. First impressions: extremely smooth and relaxing to drive. Coming from a 240bhp A4 I was worried I’d be bored but it makes you drive much more sedately but still has a decent bit of power if needed. Quite nippy away from the lights too. First trip on the motorway and was surprised at how good the lane tracing and adaptive cruise was. Will be very handy on a long trip. Seats are supremely comfy. Road noise is so so. Definitely not as quiet as the Audi but that’s probably also due to the Toyota engine being much quieter. Noticed I was running on ev mode for a decent chunk of the motorway earlier - really cool.

Incorrect, it says that the specification does not preclude the use of a fuse or other circuit protection elements. It makes no reference to it being unfused. You are confusing it with unswitched, which means permanently live. The Yaris Gen3 has a 7.5A fuse on the OBD-II bus. I don't have a Gen4 diagram to hand, but I'd put money on it that it's the same. You can assume that it would be, in order to be compliant with the OBD-II specification. It wouldn't be good if diagnostic readers powered over the OBDII bus kept setting light to cars that were underspecced on the wiring.

Hi. Yes all working fine. I had a under seat amp and sub (all in one) added to original Toyota setup couple of years ago. Adds a well needed bass boost. It's fitted underneath passenger side seat at the front. I don't have any diagrams etc as it was installed by the shops.

Support section - click on the conversation balloon. (predictive text gremlin I suspect)

Unfortunately not 👎. Dealer put it down as an admin error, although the code put in was specific to the touring sport, so he’s raising it to be looked in to. That being said, I’m still yet to actually see the car, and the dealer didn’t sound like he’d seen it either, so who knows! 😂

I have fitted a extra set of electric plugs so I can detach solar panel from both ends. I used eylets connectors on positive terminal and two on the ground beside the battery seat was not removed just the inspection cover under the seat.

I agree if you look close you see extra wires added to ground and a non standard fuse block connected, a Batterymonitor attatched to battery using Command velcro stickers. The aligator clips are for a tempory quick fix you need to remove them before driving. Mine is hard wired so aligator clips are now redundent. I still have the option of pluging in a mains charger when winter comes around via a seperate dedicated socket.

I am in New Zealand have just ought a second hand Spade 2012 from a dealer who admits to having relatives buying for him in Japan. The car is in good order cost me $8000 92000Km travelled. This is a low retail price for NZ. It was very frustrating trying to glean information from you tube and google before purchase. Extensive reviews of glove boxes and ash trays, but not much to do with a car on roads. I had an issue with keyless locking; my hands were exhausted on the PC but I believe the issue was after engine shut off it is needing another press of engine stop to fully sign out of all electronics to permit locking. I have so far had to replaced on tail light bulb $4.50 and now in a rage I have 10 more coming from China @$4.60 including airmail.

I was doing between 70 and 75. Drove from Reading to Bristol and back, so a nice mix of uphill and downhill to recharge the battery

I'd have to say this is quite common in filling stations I use. Not sure if it shares the pump or the power supply to the pump but it has no impact on cost as this comes from an online calibrated flowmeter on the pump discharge side to the individual hose and nozzle.

The easiest way I have found to debadge is to use tooth floss in a sawing action behind the badge, then WD40 to remove the remaining glue. Best to do it on a warm day as the glue is more flexible. I have removed all my 'hybrid' badges with no issues.

He probably meant cooled egr., similar to other Toyota models.

That would be interesting to see what happens. On the keyless system and with the fob fully active (on ours). it won't allow you to use the fob inside to lock the doors because it comes up with "key detected inside" on the dash display. However, you can lock the door individually using its manual button above the interior handle of each door or, on the driver's door, use the "all lock/all unlock" buttons instead. (... of using the fob - even with the key fob inside the vehicle)

Baytree, Amanda, Paid dealer to fit the Nextbase Dashcam in the accessories list - front and back cameras. It is more of a commercial offering with no screen but I really did not need that. Good quality pictures but Make sure fitters use the USB connection in the supplied base plate for the front camera. First go they used the connection on side of camera and it was a little crude. Luckily I read the instructions. Make sure fitters set it so front lens is just below the dotted shading on the windscreen. Pictures on another thread of camera set too low. Make sure fitters do not line up rear camera lens with line on rear screen for heated window. 🤔 All dash came using piggy back fuse connection mean that fuse box lid does not go back on. I put my lid on with the manual. The dealer did a good job, took all day but that suited me. Also one from piece came loose and they put it back properly. PS there was a battery pack with the package I got that resides in the base plate. Other threads list alternatives but this suited me, with dealer responsible for any issues.

😭😭😭😭😭

I’ve emailed the dealer and asked if my City Pack can be cancelled, think I value the better multi media system over 360° view and dynamic reversing lines (manage just fine with the static ones on my Yaris Mk4). Baytree, is the dashcam fitting something your dealership offers? I might look into this for mine

Will have to check our Design non-keyless system when I get back from holiday. You can lock door with key on your person ( I assume ) whilst in car - so I can check if alarm is activated when attempting to open door. 👍

Take a look at the whole car from different angles, pay attention to the glare of the paint, the difference in the color of each detail. Then proceed to the inspection of each part separately. Check the joints between the body parts, they should all be more or less the same. Inspect the coating for paint drips, chips, scratches, scuffs and other damages. Please note that the paint structure should be uniform and not change from one part of the body to another. Carefully inspect the joints of the body and the plastic parts adjacent to the metal, if there you find a light paste-like substance or traces of flushing of such a substance, most likely this part was polished. Perhaps this is the most important thing. You can find out more about it using the website https://zumroad.com/automotive.

Dealers demo's are priority and get delivered a month or so earlier than general release, you wouldn't expect to go into the dealer and them not have one to show you or test drive. It is standard practice across the motor trade

Once the ICE has started, for whatever reason, it goes through a cycle to move the fuel/oil through the system and until it’s warm. So even if it’s not driving the wheels it charges the traction battery. I some times find it frustrating especially if the traction battery is full and I’ve come down a steep hill the ICE will kick in effectively to brake the car.

You are welcome 👍

I don’t understand why you would consider driving off leaving any connection attached to the battery. Surely it’s just as easy to remove both as it is to remove one. Plus as a Don (Anchorman) has pointed out it’s much easier to use the charging point under the bonnet, if you’ve found it necessary to charge your battery.🤔.

McQueen

As an update, those bulbs I fitted are polarised, I must have been lucky on the first car. I’ll wait for the Cross for the number plates. Those will have to be white.

Did you even read the charts on the official OBDII connector that I pointed you too? The OBDII pins are not as feeble as you seem to think! Your opinion is wrong because factually those are industry-wide standard specifications for OBDII ports Europe wide... (at least - if not worldwide) To save you the bother, I've cut and pasted the relevant part here again... "Vehicle connector terminal 16 is designated Unswitched Vehicle Battery Positive and must be implemented in the vehicle connector. This terminal must be connected directly (i.e., unswitched) to the DC Positive of the vehicle's battery. This connection does not preclude the use of a fuse or other circuit protection elements. This circuit may be grouped with other similar circuits. This terminal must be able to supply a minimum of 4.0 A."

Well I can assure you that the door didn't move at all when the alarm went off because it stopped me from opening the latch fully before it "grabbed it" out of my fingers (and the alarm started blaring immediately) in our Launch Edition. Perhaps it's a feature of the Smart Touch locking/unlocking system?

Don't rely on the last two bars being accurate. Regardless of the mileage you've done never leave it more than a few miles before filling up once you hit 2 bars. That's good practice, anyway.

Just checked on the Toyota website using the developer tool bit and estimated delivery to the dealer is 14th July, not bad considering it was meant to be September.

Wynns products are very good and helpful. I have been experimenting a lot with many products especially engine oils, additives, filters, wipers, tyres, brakes etc and also been in the trade with cars and parts and I found some additives actually work. The best indeed is to use quality fuels, however this is not possible always and here is when fuel additives can actually help. I tend to keep redex for petrol in the boot and when I noticed the engine doesn’t sound and perform well after refuelling I just add 125ml to the tank and can notice immediate effect. Wynns catalytic converter and lambda sensor cleaner helped me twice when I had pulsating issues, very important when using any additives is to follow instructions exactly. , in that add was 30ltr of fuel max. Driving continuously on motorway for 30 min or more also is needed, this rises the exhaust temperature and burns any soot accumulation. 👍

It went back in for the same fault another two times and exactly the same things kept happening. The dealer ended up buying back the car. They had it up for sale again within days. Ironically the main selling point was the low milage - the very thing they tried to say was the problem - that it wasn't driven enough!

I caved and rang instead of waiting. Monday to sign the paperwork, and then pick up a few days later.

It's very common; I first found out about this when TeslaBjorn was complaining about it with Tesla Superchargers on his youtube channel. There seems to be a lot of baggage like this in the EV world that you never had to deal with at a petrol station. Another one is if you use a highspeed charger and get yelled at by Taycan and Kia owners telling you to use the slow chargers!

2014/15 was around the time the more expensive gas began to be used in new cars. For example our previous i20 (2015) had the more expensive gas (1234yf). Should be a label in the engine bay possibly on the pipework or on the underside of the bonnet, saying which gas the car needs.

The triumvirate of warning lights is misleading - it is probable that the 4x4 check and TRC lights come only because the check engine light has. You would need to read the actual error code or codes to understand what it is trying to tell you.

Doubt it. As far as I'm aware the GT86 replacement (GR86?) will be due later this year/early next year

I had read this too. I wonder if the value of the GT86 will increase as a result. I plan on keeping mine as original as possible and in mint condition too.