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Thanks for your help an suggestions, folks. I put it on marketplace earlier..... it has already gone. Got £4k for it..... and yes, the guy who bought it was fully aware of the issues, but he was a mechanic and reckoned he could fix it!

I got a payout under the "diesel gate" for my Skoda Yeti I seem to remember getting around 50% after 'expenses and the company's share. To be honest there is no way I'd have got anything if I had not joined one of the class act company's.

if it works leave it alone

Fixed! It was the wheel bearing.

Mk 3 hybrid 2018 How often do you drive. Gets used twice a week, sometimes less as it’s not our primary vehicle. Time spent driving per journey or week. 20 or 30 minutes max per week. Weekly mileage. 8 / 10 mile’s ish. Time spent in READY mode. Seconds 🤔 Do you use a charger? Plugged in overnight once a week on a smart charger, we still have the OEM original battery fitted, but had a LED charger lead fitted to the battery which is accessible from rear foot well, when it goes red it gets plugged in. On reflection it was a poor choice of vehicle for us, should have bought a small standard combustion engine car given its lack of use.

Thank you very much for your messages! I always drive and accelerate very gently and I do not want a nervous car. I have always had city cars. If I bought a Yaris, it would be my first car beyond 100 HP 😄 Again, I love the CVT Aygo X, it is an excellent car 🙂 And to me, it looks much better than the Yaris. But 70 HP with the CVT, in most situations it is more than enough, it drives like a charm, but on the motorway... Yesterday I had passengers who are not familiar with this gearbox, on the motorway they were like "what's going on with the engine, WTF?" 😄

I purchased my used 71 plate RAV4 PHEV just over 1 month ago. I have a small trailer and so needed a tow-bar. I did a lot of caravanning when I was a bit younger (!) and have fitted tow-bars and electrics (12N and 12S and 13 pin) to various cars previously including Audis 80 and A4 and Volvo XC70. I was able to do some research to help my purchase decisions thanks to Toyota-Tech.eu (lists Toyota OE accessories and fitting instructions) and on line resource from the tow-bar manufacturers including Brink (who make the Toyota OE tow-bar), Witter and GDW. I initially wanted a Westfalia tow-bar (good design and reputation) and they are now part of Witter's parent company group, but they are hard to find at the moment. I looked at Witter but eventually decided on GDW, a Belgian company. I was attracted by the design, quite similar to Westfalia, and also the fact that the tow-bar could be fitted without removing the rear bumper. It is not that difficult, but they never quite go back on the car as they were before removal. The GDW tow-bar I chose to buy is vertically detachable and a robust piece of engineering. For the 13 pin electrics, I decided to go with the Toyota OE wiring kits. I say kits as the part numbers needed for the full install are PW5D0-42567 13 Pin Towbar Wiring Kit PW5D0-42562 13 Pin Electrics Fitting Part The fitting instructions can be found on Toyota-Tech.eu. At first glance they appear very complicated, but a lot of the work involved is removal and refitting of trim parts. The electrics kit itself is of very good quality so what did I learn when fitting the towbar and the electrics kit: For the tow-bar. The design of the fixing points on the car makes fitting reasonably straightforward. All of the fixing points are covered with removable sticky tape covers. You need to make sure that mating surfaces are clean and that all bolted fixings are torqued up the required setting. That itself is not completely straightforward due to the restricted access but otherwise the GDW bar fitted perfectly. For the electrics. The Toyota OE kit provides everything. The fitting instructions are very detailed even down to the placement of each snap tie securing the wiring. Taking care with this and wrapping connectors and other parts liable to rattle or squeak with the supplied foam strips is worthwhile. Careful fitting of the wiring loom is necessary otherwise trim that has been removed may not fit back in place. Having seen how the car is put together, I was very impressed with the neatness and quality of the fixings. As I said the removal and replacement of trim panels and some seat-belt fixings particularly requires care but the design of the car helps a lot. There is one wire/cable connection that is tricky, which is the fog light by-pass wire which fits into an existing removeable 36 pin connector behind the glove box. It requires a wire to be removed and another one to be inserted in its place whilst the removed wire is placed in another connector. I haven't tried the car towing yet but it will not have too much trouble with my 750 kg trailer.

It is your towing eye. It screws into the thread behind hte little plastic bung on your front (or rear) bumper. All cars have them.

How often do you drive - between 2 to 4 times per week Time spent driving per journey or week - normally 2 journeys of 8.5 miles each way/week, 1 or 2 of 3 miles each way and once a month longer journey of 15 miles each way. Weekly mileage - 50 miles Time spent in READY mode - only when car is moving. I turn off as soon as I stop. Do you use a charger? Yes Ctek 5 after every journey.

It varies. The reserve on the several Honda Jazz I owned over the years was pretty mad. It was partly due to the shape of the tank as it's under the seating area and thus quite flat. The warning light often came on just because you'd gone round a curve but once on the light stayed on until you filled up. I was once touring Yorkshire and the light came on when the tank was still almost half full! But typically when the orange light came on the Jaz had over a hundred miles of range left.

Thanks to all of you. It's my negligence. It should be firmly depress the clutch pedal (for manual transmission) and not the brake pedal (for multidrive) while start the engine.

I'm not so sure it will happen as planned unless they [governments] intend obliterating car ownership for masses. They can't keep the lights on now without importing power. Our leaders have been so short sighted for the needs of the future. Too much jiggery wokery out there😜

I assumed that Roy was joking when he suggested he washed his car with washing up liquid, it’s great for removing grease from your dinner plates but not so on car bodywork, as it’s a degreaser it will strip the wax you’ve so carefully applied or had applied, it also contains salts which can encourage rust, the only time you might have a case for using washing up liquid on your car, is on the windscreen to remove stubborn traffic film but then only use it sparingly…

I find the Yaris Mk4 extremely punchy - It's not a fast car, and frankly doesn't feel great if you like sustaining high speeds, but the pickup when changing speeds, e.g. for overtaking or accelerating from a standstill, is fantastic. However, if you want a quiet car, it is not that - It is not very well insulated so has a lot of road noise (I think it might have the most road noise of the 3 generations of Yaris I've owned), and while the engine is very quiet when cruising, if you monster the accelerator pedal it will get verry roarty. Unlike a normal car, the noise from the engine is directly connected to how hard you're pressing the accelerator and the change is instant. If you progressively increase pedal pressure, the engine note will rise like it might in a normal car. If you floor it, it will immediately jump to the redline, which is a bit unnerving if you're not used to it, as the immediacy is like having a slipping clutch However you tend not to do that often or for long as the car will take off like a scalded cat, and unless you're just ignoring the speed limit completely, you should reach your target speed quickly enough you can back off. It very much suits my bursty driving style, as I tend to stick to the speed limit or 60mph on the motorway, which gives plenty of headroom for a short burst of power, and then drop back to my chosen cruising speed. Also remember it's a 3-cylinder with no balance shaft (Unless you get one of the new ones with the 130HP engine), and it can get very diesel-like when given the beans. When driving steady, the car will tend to stay at around 2000-rpm; You can be going up a hill, down a hill, 20mph, 60mph, it'll still tend to be around 2000rpm It's only when you give it the beans it'll rise significantly above that.

Rear visibility has not been an issue and it will be presented in any car that has different shake from classic saloon or estate like square Volvo or vw. When parking we have side mirrors and reversing camera which work great. The problem with chr design and many more later models made by Toyota is the trend of sacrificing interior headroom and legroom in favour to car dynamics and drivability, or simply for aesthetic reasons., to make their cars look different, sportier than what actually they are. All that to be competitive because todays buyers buy things because they can not because they need. If chr was slightly more simple in terms of design, interior space and brightness it would be much more successful seller imo.

We're lucky now to have a family-owned village petrol station not far away which price-matches the local supermarkets. The downside is their forecourt is tiny with only two pumps, and the easily accessible pump near the roadside is Super Unleaded E5 only..the regular E10 unleaded pump is hidden near the back, and has a queue at busy times. I usually just use whichever pump is free when I drive in, which tends to mean my car alternates constantly between E5 and E10 every other fill up. I reckon therefore the car ends up running on an 'Super-ish E7.5' mix most of the time!

Being a tight Northerner last week I went out of my way to fill up at Morrisons which was the cheapest in the area, only to brim the car with super unleaded fuel at 10p per litre more..................that'll learn me 🤦‍♂️😂😂😂

update, i brought it to a bodyshop new bumper ordered and my neighbour has paid the bill already just shy of £900.

Diesel PHEV sounds good in theory, but it turns out diesel engines are terrible for the sort of low-duty stop-start use-cycles that hybrids use. The french tried it and it was pulled for being too unreliable, which says a lot if even they thought it was too unreliable Diesels are actually horribly inefficient until they get to operating temperature (I know this from experience ), and given the petrol engine in my Mk4 struggles to stay at operating temperature sometimes, a diesel engine wouldn't have a hope! Plus with all the emissions control junk bolted onto them, the reliability would be awful - The DPF would block up in months since the engine will have such trouble getting hot enough regularly to purge it. Maybe if it was a really small diesel engine, or if this fabled ducted injection diesel every comes to market, as eliminating the soot would help a lot, but with the sun setting on IC engines I don't think anyone is willing to put in the R&D investment, as short-sighted as that is...

Further to that, all of the normal Yarises are in group 14 while the Yaris Premiere Edition is in group 15!!! That makes absolutely no sense whatsoever! The Yaris Crosses cost less to insure than normal Yarises!

There is plenty of info and ideas but no progress, wiring and pinouts was very limited, I have these now I have the terminals and the housing are on order, it's not exactly cheap, used parts are available tho, new oem parts are big money like the switches are £80-130 each

As per other replies. Whenever looking to change a cars, one of the things I do is get an insurance quote so there's no nasty surprise if I chose a particular model over another. I can assure you that using the exact same criteria, there have been occasions I've received substntially cheaper quotes for cars in higher insurance groups. Even cars within the same group will give different insurance quotes. Insurance groups is something I've never understood. Look at this I've just picked this old version of Toyota. Are they really saying a 2wd Premier Edition (13 )is more to insure than a 4wd version (12) ? Will a 2wd Design cost the same to insure as a 2wd Excel or 2wd Premier? If you drove both a Design and an Excel in to a brick wall at 30mph, the Excel will obviously cost more to repair.

I use Gtechniq G6.

Thanks, yes, makes sense.

These autonomous drive systems aren’t to be trusted 100% and just as drivers aid but not driver’s replacement. So many fatal accidents with Tesla and other brands. You can play with auto parking and if malfunction happened you may end up with a new bumper but driving at speeds over 30mph and leaving the car to control itself is not ideal. Just as safety note. 👍

I use ACC a lot and its not got me into that situation before, I have it set on 1 bar and it usually slows to soon in my opinion as you are coming up to lorries. I find myself having to change lane a good 50-75 meters before the vehicle Infront to maintain speed. Set is for the ACC to the speed you are currently doing. Res, resumes the speed you had previously set before touching the brake or pressing cancel. Standard cruise is after a few seconds of pressing the cruise control icon and is displayed differently. Did the display show an icon of a car when this happened? If not then possibly a glitch but its very rare.

Thanks for that. Very handy site!👍

Hi,mud flaps can trap dirt and debris behind them, which can speed up corrosion over time. Its always worth to clean the area behind the mud flaps regularly when washing the car. Some mud flaps require drilling into the cars wheel well, which can create potential rust points if not properly sealed. Choosing no drill mud flaps if they are available can help prevent this happening. Universal mud flaps may require more trimming and adjusting to fit your car perfectly. Consider mud flaps specific to your car might be easier. Its a good idea, using marine grade grease is a good choice as its water resistance. While that works, rear mud flaps can still help protect from road spray and debris kicked up by other vehicles. Hope this helps

Thanks for all the helpful advice. The dealer states it has a 3 year warranty which is coming to an end, the car was registered in March 21 therefore am I correct in stating that it should be 5 years and the additional 12 months cover for used cars will be tagged on after 2 years providing I have it serviced at Toyota. Appreciate any thoughts on this thanks

Thank you. I did take it for a test drive but didn't hear it then. I'll take it to a garage to get checked.

H, it would be if true. Only a supposition. Radar is pretty good but if can, from time to time, suffer from anomalous errors. Does anyone know the frequency of the car radar? I think it may operate in Ku band or higher. Or indeed how it works. Driving down a road the radar will receive echoes at a steady rate dependent on the car's speed. As you approach an obstruction the signal return rate will increase. If you take no action then the car will and it will slow down until the return rate decreases. If we think for a moment, at any one instant your car may 'see' 3 or 4 other radars. It may be a rare incidence but is can conceivably have picked up a stray signal. With proximity sensors and blind spot monitoring our cars are increasingly radar emission hot spots.

If you only need it for 7k miles a year, I'd certainly be looking at petrol. Diesels are more economical but far greater potential for expensive repairs. And at 311k miles, it has certainly seen its best days.

Leigh Day is organising to get compensation if your car has been stolen... https://www.leighday.co.uk/news/news/2024-news/toyota-and-lexus-owners-could-be-owed-compensation-as-some-keyless-vehicles-found-to-be-vulnerable-to-a-device-which-allows-them-to-be-stolen-in-minutes/

Giant poppy, giant red nose, giant stuffed toy... are these all to help the pedestrian collision rating?

typical dealer trick, fry the 12V with a charge and get it out the door, lockdown cars do seem to suffer with 12v battery issues - it's not insurmountable put a decent Bosch/Varta or Yuasa battery on it once a battery sits below a certain threshold, it starts to degrade, it will start to lose its current capacity, rinse and repeat until the battery is dead, any modern car will freak out if the voltage is too low

Totally agree. I beleive the industry and Toyota in particular, are lobbying hard behind the scenes. It would be nice if the OP would update…..

It's quite common for people with pricier/sports cars to PPF them, or at least do the nose, but it is inexplicably expensive and you HAVE to tell your insurance or they'll void it if they find out. I have to say mine is surprisingly free of nose chips so far; I'm not sure if it's because of the large amount of plastic or the supagard still somehow protecting the paint. By comparison, my radiator looks like I've driven through a flock of baby pigeons, an autumnal forest, and a bee-hive It might be worth trying a good quality ceramic coat to see if that helps before committing to PPF. The 10H hardness ones especially should give some protection from stone chips, but those can also be expensive.

We have a PHEV for a host of reasons. Most local journeys are in EV mode. However we also drive long distances (I am talking hundreds of miles at a time) for leisure, often towing, so the ICE comes into its own.

Best wishes with your new car.

Agreed - The correct line of thinking when it's getting close to zero should be "Where's the nearest petrol station??", not "I wonder how much further I can go before the engine cuts out..." I usually start thinking about refuelling at 1/4 tank or ~100 miles of range left - It means I can pick and choose the best station and complete my journey without any risk of getting stranded!

Sorry, just my weird sense of humour. We get lots of posts saying how much is the reserve tank and why doesn't the car run out of fuel when the "range" is on zero. Just put fuel in the ruddy thing 🤣🤣🤣

The main problem with R1234YF is Honeywell have a monopoly on it so they can charge what they like. Smeg only knows why car manufacturers picked that as the alternative to R134 - It's worse in almost every way; Performs worse, is more flammable and is much more expensive. The only advantage it has is it has a lower global warming rating. IMHO they should have gone with CO2 - It has an even lower global warming rating than 1234, isn't flammable, doesn't degrade into toxic chemicals, and is much cheaper! The only downside is the systems need to be engineered better as it needs to run at a much higher pressure, but I'd rather pay a couple hundred more for such a system than a hundred more every time I have to regas the system! I'm not sure what the best thing to do is, but in my previous cars I'd only regas them when I noticed a drop in AC performance. In my Mk1's, I literally regassed them once and never regassed them again while I owned them. My Mk2 had a faulty AC system and I was regassing it every few months before I got rid of it. I'm expecting my Mk4 to have a a much more robust system are am not expecting to have to regas it any time soon (3 years and counting now!) but one downside of the climate control system is it's very difficult to tell if the system performance is degrading...

Toyota should take responsibility, I bet the number of people affected by this not fit for purpose scandal runs into the many thousands, many older people, maybe a TV consumer programme should investigate, like watchdog?

It is drain the system of its content (gas and oil), vacuum tested for leaks and if no issues detected then new gas and oil are filled up. All that happens with a specific equipment and the mechanic only connects two hoses to the car and turns ON the machine. Depending on climate and use 2-4 years it’s recommended intervals. I personally do 4 years in UK. The idea here is to maintain top levels of the gas and oil for the systems to operate correctly. Some people never do this and had no problems, I like to do as per the manufacturer recommended intervals.

The joys of buying a Chinese Ford😉 But seriously go to an approved dealer, don't take the first deal and be prepared to walk away and take the best warranty that's on offer

Friend of mine had RAV4 MK4 Hybrid and these are negatives why I did not buy one: No digital speedo: this was a dealbreaker for me, as we drive to Europe often. Does not handle as good as current RAV4, older chassis. You get about 10 mpg less with MK4 (older hybrid system). Over 40k miles in 2wd RAV4 MK5 my calculated MPG is 48.7 Friend of mine got under 39 over 30k

Just 12 months ago i helped a friend buy a 71 plate Aygo x trend so hope this helps. She wanted the grey colour but there were not as many around...however she wouldn't compromise on colour so we had to travel a few miles to find the right one. Even though most had low miles(less than 5000) the condition on some were awful for retail cars. In the end we found a one owner low mileage mint car for £10999 with a free service mot and delivery. So to sum up Is it the colour you want,have you looked at a few or just fallen for the first,is the condition good,service history it should have had 2 or maybe 3 services despite low mileage. The price is a little high but that's the car market BUT if it's a mint car in the colour you want with the correct service history then it's for you and also peace of mind you have a 12 month warranty which can be extended if serviced at Toyoyota every year. If not keep looking. Mark

Hi Jen Welcome to TOC Do the normal check before buying any car : Test drive the car Service history check 2 keys Look for any obvious re-paint done on the car

That seems to be in line with current prices. Make sure it has been serviced - despite the low mileage.

So it looks like there isn't a non keyless option i think maybe the auto trader ads were missing the detail for some but not all models. This would have put me off buying one but due to the fact Toyota have given us the option to disable it i will still treat myself in the not too distant future. I assume this is the same procedure for the Cross.