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I have water in my Yaris too ... Evian, Smart and Highland Spring if anyone wants some

Once I had an Uber ride to the airport in ioniq hybrid and the display showed 68mpg which is really good and I had a chat with the guy who owns the car since new and he said that it is economical indeed and he had a Prius previously. I asked him which one is the better car and more efficient, he replied- the Prius is the winner, unfortunately too expensive for him to buy. My old Auris hybrid currently deliver 55mpg and this will go up to 60mpg in the summer, mixture of motorways and urban drives. Another interview thing is that after the new hybrid battery replacement I only gained extra 3mpg , which means that ageing it’s not an issue in these power trains, at least not before the warning lights come up. Toyota make best hybrids imo.

That was meant to say "do not know" As @Flatcoat says, the battery never goes fully flat, and the other reason for this beyond longevity is so that you can always utilise the fully power in HEV mode, should that be required. ie you are never "dragging around a heavy useless flat battery" as many motoring journalists like to say about PHEVs, it is always functional either for EV driving, or HEV driving. You're never reliant purely on ICE.

A few cars do this...my VW Golf has the same function and it really does make a difference.

Ha. Just this afternoon I saw a (probable) Merc backing out of a neighbours drive with the badge/latch at an angle. I wondered about it ... now I know 🙂

Hi, the hybrid Toyota aren’t much different from non hybrid ones. They are very similar, simple and easy to work on cars. The 87000 miles aren’t too high for a 7 years old car , but again each used car is strictly individual case, it can be a good buy or total disaster. You need to run all usual second hand car checks and also if the car has full service, when was last serviced and where, has it done a hybrid battery health check which gives you another year warranty on the hybrid battery. Don’t worry to buy used hybrid up to 12 years old , anything older hybrid battery will be on its end, something to be taken into account. Good luck

Thank you everyone for all your comments and advice - I am very grateful for the time and effort you have given to answering my question.! As a result, I am now convinced that a Yaris 2017-on 1.5 manual is the way forward! I will now set about trying to find a good low mileage model....which looking at MotorTrader shouldn't be too much of a problem. The 'Tech' model seems a good idea, especially for my fashion-conscious 20yo daughter! (She absolutely hates my Camry by the way - wants to know why I don't buy something 'better' like a Range Rover - Little does she know.....Ha!!) Thanks again - hopefully I can return the help some day Tony

Question: If there are roundabout signs but no roundabout is it still a roundabout? There used to be one here but they removed it, the signs and some of the give way lines are still there but really easy to miss and getting worse every week. https://www.google.com/maps/@53.8322468,-2.2177362,3a,75y,4.2h,80.94t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sI5Ke1Q7UexSjjaNRXT0qfw!2e0!6shttps:%2F%2Fstreetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com%2Fv1%2Fthumbnail%3Fpanoid%3DI5Ke1Q7UexSjjaNRXT0qfw%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D149.48015%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

This is what I did and after the initial charge to see how it performed in EV mode I used HEV mode with the traction battery showing zero miles EV mode range. This still has around 30% charge which is used to support the HEV mode. As I said above post in my normal day to day driving it’s left in EV mode and then let the car sort out the switch to HEV mode.

GR Sport. Drives nicely but some as an oldie I find some of the functions are slightly over complicated- whatever happened to setting the cruise control by simply pushing the set button 🤔

As it's a new car I would use HEV for the first 1000 KM. Like a lot of people I have been using EV mostly as it's so quiet and enjoyable. The car always starts in EV and I have driven mainly 25 miles trips, my Toyota app says I have been driving 80% in EV mode. I realised that I need to " break in" the engine so in the last couple of weeks I have started to use HV mode only but the rav4 still does EV mode when you're in the town centre. I think it does it in conjunction with the sat nav. When it reaches 1000 miles I will change the oil + oil filter, after that I would use EV mode for short trips. I agree with above comments about ECO and NORMAL modes, there isn't much difference in " fuel consumption " if you just drive and not using aircon or heaters. I use normal mode but change to sport mode when I need to over take .

With regards the 302hp question - this figure applies to HEV mode, ie the electric motors working in conjunction with the ICE. In EV mode, best estimation of the total bhp I have been able to find a reference for is 236 (182 at the front, 54 at rear), however I do know know if one can simply add together the bhp figures for seperate ev motors, as I know that doesn't work for adding to the ICE figures due to different torque curves etc, but my understanding is that ev bhp/torgue curves are linear (until they flatten off at max). Don't quote me on that tho, as I'm not an engineer. Either way, the car is punchy enough in EV mode for virtually all legal driving scenarios you should encounter.

I've always left my PHEV in EV mode and let the car sort out the rest. Overall I've found this to be the best for fuel economy and when the traction battery is depleted for pure EV mode, down to 30%, the car will automatically switch to HEV mode. In either state the full power is available as if the conditions arise the ICE will kick in to supplement the EV only mode. Heavy acceleration, step hill decent will automatically kick in the HEV/ICE mode. (as will selecting front screen defrost?) The only time I select HEV mode is if I can see that the EV range will be just insufficient to get me home, say 4 miles to my destination and the EV mode range is say 5 miles, so I select the HEV mode the ICE will start and then I switch back to EV mode immedialtely . Once the ICE is warm the car will go back to EV mode and I get home knowing that the ICE is fully hot and not just kicked in when I need to stop and switch off. Just leave the car to do its thing and enjoy. It will take a few trips to get used to the car's noises and quirks.

I wish I had kept my 1.5 petrol Y20. Just service it, fill it up with fuel and when I barely used it for months it started first time every time. Perfect for an oap who does less than 3000 miles a year although I do like the extra space in the Yaris Cross and the convenience of the seamless gearbox.

I don't get the wind and road noise in my PHEV - no idea why it should be different to Nick's unless he is hyper sensitive. Also the stereo never needs to be anywhere near max to be really loud with the JBL and I like music loud. PHEV really is a big jump from HEV in all respects and the price is now just back to where it was at launch - not cheap but try to find a genuine competitor on all counts and you'll maybe think it's a bargain.

Only possibly in the sense that it's whisky before it becomes whisky

Can't pick it up (so no idea where they are) and 5 days for them to disappear ... I'd run. (But to be fair, these days I won't even consider a private sale - too many scammers in the game and I can afford to pay a bit more for peace of mind. Your risk aversion may vary.)

The last Toyota engine I know of that used a timing belt was the 1CD-FTV from around the mid 2000s - Every single one of their engines since then has used a chain!

Can't see the car, but can have it for 5 days? Don't understand.

Just placed my order this weekend for a Premiere Edition through my local Dealer. I absolutely can’t wait to get back in a Toyota. I drove a Yaris cross excel last year, knew I wanted one but didn’t bite the bullet. Then I heard of this premiere edition in khaki green and just couldn’t miss out on this one. I have been honestly told by the dealer they have no clarity or certainty on the production date and I should anticipate 6months to not get my hopes up. This wait is going to drag, but hopefully worth it 🙂

The newer ones are better for rust - The Mk1s were pretty bad for it as they aged and many of them have literally rusted to death, esp. the front and rear sub-frames. The Mk2 and Mk3 are better for it, and tend to get rusty springs and exhausts but less serious structural rust. I'm always a bit sus about these sort of sight-unseen sales, and it sounds like they are a dealer pretending to be a private seller to try and get out of the normal dealer responsibilities and consumer protections. I'd be inclined to look elsewhere...

Good photos, particularly of the rubber band and the orientation of the styrene moulding. 👍

Thats great Tony, I hope you can find her a nice second facelift model (67 plate to 20 plate). They do some nice 2 tone paint versions that look pretty trendy, such is one like Chas's above which younger people might like better than a model with single colour paint. Something like the Icon Tech would be great too, as cruise control would make a very useful feature for journeys up the motorway - just set it to 65MPH and leave it do the work - helps with fuel economy too. I would think you would find a nice example for under £9000 and they really do make nice cars. I'm on my third Yaris now, I've had a Mk1, a Mk2 and now a Mk3, and every one of them has been very reliable, bar one or two little niggles which you get on any car really, but in all 13 years I have owned Yaris's I have never once had to call the AA out to them. As long as you get a low mileage one (under 50K miles) and make sure you service it and look after it, you should get years of reliable motoring from it. The engines in these cars all use timing chains rather than belts, so as long as the oil gets changed every 6K - 10K miles without fail, you should never need to worry about the timing chain. With regards to older Toyotas, my late father's last car before he had to give up driving was a 2001 Corolla, which he had from 2004 right up until 2018, and while most people didnt like it as it was an "old man's car", he swore by it as the most reliable car he ever had, and started our family's love affair with Toyotas. My Yaris's were all owned by my mother before I had them, and she is now on her 4th Yaris - apart from the odd issue like a battery failure and blown exhaust which can affect any car, none of them have let us down. Also, recently, the Mk3 Yaris won the crown for the most reliable used car, so you just cant get a better choice for your daughter. The most reliable used cars in 2024: Do you own one of the top ten? | This is Money Toyota Triumphs in 2024 Warrantywise Reliability Index

You are assuming he was wondering that. Personally as he may have been a cyclist my guess would be "I am sure there was something on here when I set off"

I think it’s fair to say they are fair weather devices. It’s always been a pain going back to my Mazdas of old but I always managed before that. If you were really inventive you could tee off the rear wash wipe and mount a jet above. Long pipe to a dash mounted squeezy bottle? Home alone style arm with a rag on it.? How about, glass mounted inside the rear screen where the wiper sweeps. It’s a challenge for somebody.

I think that it was probably this one... Pity it only seems to be available in black.

Hi, Yes I do,this with all my cars and my Yaris Cross is the latest. I fit the Metal insert "U" channel type rubber. From Fleabay and not expensive. I found it is so easy to fit with no sticky tape to use either. The U shape grips well and does not come loose or mark the car. Fit the first bit, then as you unroll the channel fit in place as you go "tapping"with a rubber mallet. When you reach the end of the required length, pull an inch or so off, cut across with sidecutters or pliers, remove the last two metal inserts with pliers and fit the finished end with a tap. This ensures no sharp edge to catch the paint. I do all doors up to window height and as far down as required, the boot lid too. Doesn't take long. Measure the length in total you will need with a tape ensuring enough and buy at least that length and depth/width required. There's lots to choose from so don't just go for the first you see. I have used Black as my Cross is a deep blue with Black/Grey interior, but various edge colours are out there. It works too.

I had exactly the same on a brand new car, which I discovered after just a couple of weeks of ownership (first wash). There was no external sign of damage but it was loose at the bottom. Investigation revealed it is held in place by an internal bracket and the bottom arm was broken. Neither Toyota nor I could explain it. My best guess is that it happened during delivery but didn't become loose until I drove over a few pot holes and speed bumps. They repaired it under warranty which required the lower front section of the body work to be removed. Sounds like it is a bit of a weak spot, but at least the part is available. I did make me wonder if it is "designed" to break in order to save the light in a bump.

The folks at Carnoisseur sell the Road Hero space saver spare for the RAV 4.5s. While they don't explicitly state that it fits the GR Sport PHEV, I believe that it is what Ernie uses in his PHEV and it does, usefully, include a 'will it fit' section that gives the exact dimensions of the wheel - so you can check!

Hi Iain, Sorry to hear about you being in pain. I've had sciatica several times in the past, is it possible that's what you're suffering with? I've been lucky in recent years and haven't had it return but it can be really painful, when at it's hieght mine felt like my legs were connected to the mains supply constantly. My recollection is that it starts high up near the base of the spine then travels down through the buttocks, thigh(s) down into the calfs and possibley the feet, caused by pressure on the main nerve that serves the leg(s). As you've had a referral already perhaps it's something else. Hope it gets sorted for you quickly.

It will tell you if any accidents have been reported, not if it's been in any accidents. With LED headlamps being crazy expensive, some people who've been 'at fault' will not go thru their insurance, rather repair the car themselves. It doesn't take much to knock a headlight out of allignment as the lugs that hold the screws/bolts in place are typically made out of plastic. It's much easier to spend a few pounds 'bodging' those plastic lugs than £800 or whatever on a new headlamp assembly. OP - I'd take the car back to the supplying dealer and let them sort it out rather than attempt to recify the problem yourself. If you do attempt to recify it and it doesn't work then they can quite rightly claim it's no longer their responsibility.

Three years ago I suffered severe pains in my right leg, to the point that I called 111. The medic who visited me suggested that I go straight to A&E. I dithered over this, and a couple of days later had to contact our doctors’ surgery. The doctor said to come in at once and, after a brief examination whilst I was still there, he rang the hospital and I was admitted in less than a week. I had a vascular surgery operation on my leg - cut open 53 cms from my crotch - and basically “re-plumbed”. Periodic checks were carried out at the hospital over the next two years, until I was finally discharged. Any significant distance of walking now gives me aches. I realised that I could have lost my leg, so don’t ever ignore the problem - get to your doctor immediately if you are in any way worried.

Fitted these to my car, not the rubber strips.

Welcome to PHEV ownership! It sounds as though your dealer didn’t do a very good handover….. without repeating previous comments, it is worth noting the EV battery never actually goes flat. The battery management system leaves a buffer at the ‘top’ and ‘bottom’ of the batteries charged capacity to help with longevity. Without worrying too much about where the 306 horses come from just be happy with the circa 6 seconds 0-60 time!

I haven't driven a HEV RAV4, but I have no complaints with road or wind noise with my PHEV. Of course road surfaces and/or tyres can effect the noise the same as say high cross winds but these would create noise on any car. You can count on my vote for the PHEV.

When I test drive the HEV I did think that was noisy, especially road noise from the rear. It did make me pause on my decision. However my research showed The PHEV does have additional sound insulating measures including the glazing specification. That convinced me to go for the PHEV and for 99% of the time noise levels are fine. It is only when towing the caravan up long steeper inclines does the engine noise become an issue. I can drive and tow 400 miles in a day in the car and not feel tired or aching which says a lot about its qualities.

I've found that it really does depend on road surfaces. There are sections of the M1 which I use frequently where it's really very noisy but others where it's becomes so quiet that you feel you've gone deaf, this is predominately tyre noise, some wind noise. I generally travel at an indicated 65mph, so probably 62mph real at higher speeds it does increase but again the road surface is the key. I'm still on the OEM tyres.

I found I could also do that with the two Mk3s that I previously had when we had a south-facing driveway.

The 1.5 is just the better all round engine for me driving it fast or slow or up big hills, it never lacks at anything without have to rev it hard, your right about the Black nearly wash and wax it as much as i drive it 😂 just well like keeping my cars looking topper.

Surely wind and tyre noise are all down to the body design of the car and the make/type of tyre fitted as OEM. Get the test drive in a new model to see for yourself, but whether it’s an HEV or PHEV should not make a difference to what you are experiencing. The basic body style isn’t exactly aerodynamic and you might be spending an awful lot of money to end up with the same outcome 🤔

At motorway speeds you still get some wind noise but little road and engine noise. Pretty quiet most of the time as long as you treat the pedal sympathetically.

Very loud for me. Wind and road noise. Start to notice above 55mph. At 70 plus mph it starts to get really loud. 70mph GPS speed BTW. Not the Speedo which is about 5 or 6 mph fast when it reads 70mph. So actually you're doing 64mph. Definitely the loudest car I've had in the last 10 years when on the motorway. Are you saying at 76mph Speedo ( 70mph actual as the error worsens with higher speeds ) that yours is not noisy? Definitely not hypersensitive. Wide tyres, minimal insulation (why many Americans have done some DIY sound insulation on the US forums), aerodynamics of a brick. Unsurprisingly it's loud at higher speeds. My long motorway business trips are comfortable in the car apart from the noise. That's one thing I was hoping they'd fix. My points of comparison over the past decade includes; the Peugeot 3008 GT300 PHEV SUV (shockingly bad engineering of the power train and software but it was much quieter in the cockpit), AMG Merc, various BMWs, a Hyundai SUV (can't recall what it was called), Audi Q3, and many more. Lots of manufacturers. Company car driver and hire car user before I opted in to the company arrangements. Could of course be something wrong with mine like bad seals or they forgot to put the insulation in.

Definitely go for the 1.5 Yaris over a 1.33 Yaris, I've had both and found the 1.33 rather gutless for anything other then a short run to the shops, am back in a 1.5 Yaris again and will be keeping it long term can't go wrong with them real good little cars.

Wind and road noise is still nasty in the PHEV. I can't say where it stands versus the HEV but compared to most other cars I've had it is the worst. I have to turn the stereo to near max just to hear it when cruising at 75mph. Other than that, it is very fast, astonishing acceleration from any starting speed. Useful off road. Lovely quiet EV motoring under 50mph when the wind and road noise is low. 50 miles per charge averaged over a year. GR Sport model looks awesome. Upgrading from a 2021 R4P with any luck end August although my company car folks have fallen out with Toyota so I'm hoping they can come to terms soon. Otherwise I'm not sure what I'll do. Probably get a DACIA AWD Duster. Good car for 20k. Or go the other way and get a Merc SUV. Dunno. Heart set on the PHEV GR Sport.

Resetting tge TPMS is curious and does require the car to be driven with left and right turns for a distance. Only time I had to do it was from new as the PDI had not picked it up. After a tyre change at KwikFit and deflating the tyre to the correct pressure no reset was required.

Pop in and speak to them - ask if it has been in an accident and what repairs were done (if they didn't tell you at time of purchase). It may just be a loose bolt, something simple. Just remember (For a used car, “satisfactory quality” takes into account the car's age and mileage.) You have a right to reject something faulty and you're entitled to a full refund within 30 days of purchase in most cases. After 30 days, you lose the short-term right to reject the goods.

Yes.. agree. Its here a keeper also. We bought the IQ because we always liked that small Toyota and it was financially possible to buy one. Now we owned it for 6 months or so and it became love. Its really a brilliant car!

I find you just have to make the judgement call in the moment, as there is no one-size-fits-all safest thing to do most of the time. In Roy's scenario above, I must admit I probably wouldn't have bothered moving over and just bombed past them in lane 1 But on other occasions with seemingly similar setup, I have pulled in behind such drivers well in advance, then done it 'the proper way'. I don't personally think either way is always safer, as although I have had people just pull in front of me in situations like Roy's scenario, I've had it the other way too, where I've signalled and begun moving into lane 3 to overtake and the car I was following just suddenly pulls out in front of me with no warning, so you have to be ready for moronic behaviour no matter what lane and which side you want to move to. The trick is just to always leave/create loads of space everywhere - I'll even drop back a bit to avoid having a car next to me, because my default assumption is all other drivers are gormless morons and it just gives me more reaction space

My mother used to own the car I have now, which is a 2014 car with the 1.33 engine. She got a 2019 Yaris with the 1.5 engine, and said her insurance barely changed at renewal to what it was with the 1.33. These two engines may be a slightly different displacement, but the power output is pretty much the same. There is not a lot of difference between the visible difference between the 2014 and 2019 cars either, as this photo shows my mothers car (1.5 engine) in front and my car (1.33 engine) behind it. There is barely any difference in performance between the 2 engines either, so I cannot understand why insurance would be much more for a 1.5 car over a 1.33 car.

It seems that you and I are similar Chas (I'm fast approaching 75!) in that I've driven a lot of high powered rally and track machinery in my murky past... However, unlike you, I still find the Mk4 Yaris (to use @Cyker's vernacular) a bit of a hoot to drive and love watching the faces of other driver's in much higher powered cars when I leave them for dead at the traffic light grand prix (up to 30 at least anyway...) with the help of the combined ICE and max torque of MG2. I can just see it on their faces as they subsequently pass me with a quizzical look... "that's a hybrid?!" 😁