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They won't, manufacturers under are pressure to reduce their carbon footprint, they use far less oil in an engine these days and a lot of manufacturers have extended service intervals, not less. Modern oils are much better than the old days of 20w-50 that needed changing every 5-6000 miles. Imagine how many millions of litres of old used oil would need recycling if every new car needed a 1000 mile oil change

Preventative purposes, we see a lot of cars (all makes) and quite a few have injector issues, we don't like selling add on's, people always feel conned, but we feel it's a good measure with both petrol and diesel models

**UPDATE** I took my car in for the wheel to be examined and they agreed to request a new alloy from Toyota which has been approved. I'm booked in to have my new wheel fitted in the 1st week in may. 😄

Take what he says with a pinch of salt. This is not the first time he appears to be talking out his behind. Wear particles in an engine are under normal circumstances microscopic. If you can see metal particles in the filter, then you have big (end) problems going on. Gearbox oils is a different matter, there you will have loads of tiny metal pieces. Used gear oil will shimmer when stirred. This ^^ For the above reason, the trend is towards longer service intervals. Several manufacturers now run a 20k mile / 2 year oil service schedule. Personally, I only change more frequently in the cars that go on track. Everything else, follows the service schedule. But I do keep a very close eye on the level, the colour of the oil, and any visible staining inside engines. Oil-threads are such slippery slopes!

I do if the terms mean I’ll make more by doing it. Toyota Corp has got a bigger bank balance than me so if they’ll pay the finance while my money makes a few bob in the bank, I’ll let them.

That's ideal and when you definitely don't need to do any interim changes as the car is used for long periods of continuous use. You service the car about three times per year. In that kind of use the engines will do very high mileage without any problems.

1.2T manual has plenty oomph for its size. Mines is cvt. Try and get low mileage, well serviced example. Pre april 2017 should be £20 road tax. After that is £160ish road tax. Excel model is top of range. No real known major problems.

@Big_D I always pay the asking price because I find haggling rather distasteful and I also make sure I give the ladies who make me a cup of coffee, the delivery driver and the salesman a good tip. Makes the whole thing much more agreeable, I brighten a few peoples lives and within a couple of months I cant remember how much I paid anyway. Jobs a good un

...and it works well although it is very stiff in the straight up and down motion.

Should have gone to Specsavers. 😄

Says mr quote everything off YouTube 😉

Today's Wizard of Id seems appropriate: https://www.gocomics.com/wizardofid/2024/04/23

I initially wasn't 100% sure on the EPB, but I checked a 2018 Auris model brochure from just before they were replaced by the Corolla, all models are shown with a manual handbrake and no mention is made anywhere of an EPB being available.

Hi Neil, i have a 2017 Auris 1.2T auto with a normal handbrake and hasn't missed a beat in 3 years since we purchased it. Not sure if any of the Auris models in the Uk did have EPB, however this has a turbo and it really does shift when needed. It often surprises me for a small engine. As far as major issues go haven't seen any real concerns. This model is often overlooked as reviews have stated its lacklustre etc etc. if you can find one in manual being your preference give it a test drive you will be surprised. However I'm sure others will have their own opinions.Hope this helps

You'll be pleased to hear the Auris never had an EPB, they went right up to the end of production with a manual handbrake. I'd personally go for the 1.8 hybrid (not available as a manual though), but just be aware that they are vulnerable to catalytic converter thefts.

Slartybartfast thanks for your reply , turns out I did use the A.C fuse 🤦‍♂️. Have now changed it to the ACC one above and it’s working fine

Never had that problem on ours. But then, none of them have/had any higher mileage. 🤷‍♂️ For reference, the relevant TSB attached: liftbolts.pdf

Slime also do a tyre repair kit for around £26. Bear in mind that Toyota's tyre repair sealant used to have a use by date - approx 3 years life.

Agreed, even when I did 35k miles per year in my aygo for 3.5 years (yes you read that right!) It never had interim changes and was simply serviced and oil changed every 10k miles by Toyota.. it never missed a beat. And only one summer did I need to top the oil up a bit.

Some of my contemporaries still refer to Anglian water as the "water board". The water rates used to be included in the rent when I lived in a 60s tower block, around £1.60 a week on top of the £6.50 a week rent iirc. That was where I first developed my taste for car cruising and bling. A long time ago I know, but then again the water was drinkable, unlike now where it is over chlorinated to the point I buy bottled water for drinking, the tap stuff stinks.

The first owner of my 2003 Yaris had the wheels replaced under warranty about a year into ownership. The replacement wheels are still fine now, so I don't know what the difference was between the originals and the replacements. My old 2001 lexus had terrible wheel corrosion, but well out of warranty when I owned it. I'm guessing that Toyota/lexus had a supplier problem, maybe still does from the sound of it. But overall, I think as long as the engine starts and takes me there and back reliably, I can put up with a bit of wheel trouble,as long as it doesn't stop the car. So I still have faith in Toyota engineering, especially from the late 90s early 2000s.

I was going to say the same thing - Unless you fill the tank, it is basically just guessing I think the minimum you need to put in is something like 20 litres for it to reset properly.

"Has the car been modified.......?" That is an easy question to answer if you are the first owner or did the modification. If you are a second owner how can you be sure that your second hand car is unmodified? My first had a screen washer and seat belts fitted My second an automatic reversing light, a radio, automatic aerial, and halogen headlight bulbs and hazard warning lights,and demodified when I removed the headlight relays. My next had headlight wipers, rear fog lights (OEM supplied), headrest restraints (OEM supplied), headlight and fog light relays, upgraded headlights, fog lights, car radio and electric aerial. These were all upgrades matching what became standard in later cars. Unless a dealer itemised all these changes it would be impossible for a new buyer to know.

Buy the box. Repackage and sell at silly prices on eBay.

Yes its the same engine 8NR-FTS

You put it in the engine with the old oil, run it for 10-15 minutes before draining it. Toyota used to include engine flush in every service. I don't think they do anymore. There are (and has been for many years now) enough detergents in the oil to do that work on its own.

Absolutely not necessary to do any oil changes in between 10k miles or 12 months scheduled intervals. It’s just waste of oil, time and money and does help nothing to extend life of the engine or reduce oil consumption at later date. Oil consumption is something that any car with ice will have at some point of its life even if you change the oil every day. Those guys from YouTube does great videos but this doesn’t mean they are always right., even if they show laboratory testing results. Stick with your intervals as max time / mileage, can do a bit earlier but don’t do it late and never skip a service and use exact type viscosity engine oil as recommended this is all you need to do as maintenance and you will enjoy long and trouble free drive. Here is where the things starts to go wrong on cars that hasn’t been used a lot and owners skip service intervals on regular basis. For example, ooo I don’t drive much, the oil still looks good, I will change it later date, then a year after , ooo I only done 4000 miles for two years , let’s keep going and so on. , or use wrong type viscosity.

Thanks for the replies to date. As it happens, I helped my son change his car recently and it was a 2019 Corolla 1.2T which I am guessing is the same engine as in the Auris mentioned above? He's really happy with it (but has a epb so not for me). Great to hear that they all came without an epb. No major faults is also encouraging, was the same when I looked into the Corolla for my son, plus my Avensis has been excellent. I will start my search. Cheers all.

1.6 petrol manual also a good choice.

130 hp is only available on the new 2024 cross premiere, not before.

Well that’s where the second video on the Corolla is incomplete because you’d have to compare the oils again at the end of the second year. It might be that by that time all the flushing is done and there’s very little difference. Cars operating in colder climates will generate more condensation which can emulsify the oil to some extent. The other consideration is that cars with direct injection can suffer with carbon fouling and oil dilution which brings me back to the subject that seems to land me in trouble and that is using low grade fuel (supermarket). I must admit, I took it that the M15 engine in the Yaris/Cross had D4S direct and indirect injection (my M20 engine does) which keeps the inlet valves free of carbon. I’ll investigate further when I get chance but if that is true and any of you keep your cars for a long time I would definitely go for interim oil changes and at least branded fuel but better still high grade. Before anybody bites and says they’ve been using supermarket fuel for 40 years blah blah, no you haven’t, not in a Euro 6 engine and frankly I don’t care what you put in but it may well bite you in the backside if you ignore the advice of a very experienced time served mechanic (me) and many of my peers.

One of the Mk4's weaknesses is poor visibility; Forward visibility is okay, but the A-pillars create blindspots which can obscure oncoming vehicles; I find they're particularly leery on roundabouts and I'm having to rock back and forth to look around them. The rear view mirror is very much in the way - I can see why GR owners cut a slot into the arm to allow it to be pushed higher. Rear visibility is probably the worst of all the Yaris models - The B and C pillars create huge blind spots all round with all the headrests covering what they don't, making the rear 270 degrees practically blind aside from directly backwards. I've had some near misses that I only caught because of the blind spot monitors.

Why would you change the oil yourself and invalidate the warranty, service interval 10,000 or one year which ever comes first.

This is totally different size and likely not gonna fit. Even if you manage to fit these tyres you will have very different dynamic characteristics and worse fuel efficiency, worse handling and performance. Just keep your original size 205/55 16 , this is the best size wheels and tyres for Corolla.

A hitchhiker, coming home tonight I saw a guy on the opposite side of the road with his thumb out hitching a lift, he was in an awkward place just before the road goes into a dual carriageway, so it would be potentially dangerous for someone to stop, I used to see hitchhikers all the time and have even given a lift to one years ago, mind you, that was leaving somewhere I was working and happened to be passing where they needed to be..

Most of the alloy wheels for all Toyota cars around the world are made in Turkey 🇹🇷. Those include Japanese, Americans or Russian and all English made cars. Here some information The JIL standard is a small logo placed in the design of automotive alloy wheels during the casting process to certify that they have been passed by Japanese Authorities to approve them for sale in the Japanese market. the letters JIL mean Japan Institute of Labour.

Hah, that's a nice line; I'm pretty sure the way that would end is we all pay 600 a year and there are even more water leaks than ever! It's in their own interest to fix leaks but there are multiples that haven't been repaired in literal decades, even when they had money, so why would any one believe they'd fix them if they get given more money?

Indeed - I'm not opposed to paying taxes, but I want to know where all the money is going! I don't understand how I can not have had a pay rise in a decade but I'm still managing to keep my head above water, while councils have been increasing taxes year on year yet still be going bankrupt while at the same time cutting services and ignoring as many of their responsibilities like road repair and park maintenance as much as possible! It doesn't add up. By their standards I should be declaring bankruptcy and having all my debts written off! I really want to know where all the money is disappearing to - I strongly suspect it is mainly gross incompetence; For instance in one of the boroughs I work in they have fired almost all the long-term council staff and half the council is run by agency staff, and I'm pretty sure that is costing them far more than employing staff directly!

Poor man's Lamborghini Countach 😎

To treat symptoms or as a prophylactic measure?

Yeah we still sell a few oil flushers, mainly to "old school" DIY' ers, we sell a ton of fuel treatments, they are more relevant than ever

The estimated range. Always trust your own maths and not the computer. If you know your tank holds 45 litre and you fill up 35 when the light comes on, then you know you have about a 10 litre ( 2 gallon?) reserve.

Just reinsurer, interesting morning. I tried LV and was outright rejected-over 70. Got on to my broker. Eight in the queue. When I eventually got through to reception I am now awaiting a ring back (3 hrs at the moment) Also turns out they don't send renewals, you have to go online. Got a quote on line, shade under £600 (£100 up on last year) with LV. Tried Confused, exactly the same price. Tried MoneySavingExpert who forwarded me to MoneySuperMarket who offered just £30 more through AAIS. Took this offer, more cover, lower excess with LV. And AAIS took a £28 referral fee within the quote.

These changes will most like not interfere with any warranty claims unless directly related to the parts in question, for example a subwoofer installation when warranty repair on injectors, this will not affect it. However it is still a modification that needs to be addressing to the insurance and can give a base for argument’s from some dealers.

Cyker, when you say, “….and what have we gotten out of it? Nothing.”, it made me think this: Over time, haven’t we become used to our taxes being spent recklessly, with a natural built-in expectation that nothing will change? I think we have, and that situation is dangerous to the welfare of society in general. The governments (central and local) get away with their wrongdoings because, unfortunately, The UK population is generally disinterested in politics and only grumble when they feel personally affronted by a result of an authority’s ruling.

Excellent, thanks for the update.

Are they talking about a SPARE KEY? Some models only came with one key due to the chip shortage, they are now becoming available again

Basically if it's a Toyota hybrid, it'll have an 'eCVT', aka the HSD (Hybrid Synergy Drive, the marketing name) or PSD (Power Split Device, the 'proper' name). If it's not a hybrid, it won't. But you read the article wrong - It doesn't say the UK doesn't get 'eCVT' (I hate that term) Corollas, it's saying the UK doesn't get Corollas with normal CVT gearboxes - Toyota only sell hybrid models in the UK for the Yaris and Corolla which are all 'eCVT'; The Manual and CVT-equipped ones are only available in other countries.

According to the manual Looks like there's a ball joint at both the top and bottom of the stalk.

What you need to understand about warranties and insurance is even if you make an adjustment that makes the car safer they don’t turn around and say “hey thanks so much for doing that with your own money” What they will do is unfortunately look for any reason to NOT pay out on a claim you make. Thats why I’m suggesting you do some research because I’m trying to save you expensive mistake. Just imagine you are at fault for an accident and the insurance find a modification, it’s possible they could refuse to pay out and then you will be footing the bill. Or you have a catastrophic engine fail and you claim on warranty and they spot the horn.. it could turn in to a very large garage bill. your choice, I’m only trying to give you a heads up.