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My Yaris MK4 hybrid system failed a couple of weeks ago, the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and I managed to limp it back to the local dealer. Having read the forum regarding this issue I thought I was in for the long haul but after just over a week the car was ready to pick up, having had a new damper installed and I have to say it feels better (tighter) and more responsive. Thankyou Toyota and thankyou RRG Huddersfield for your prompt assistance, my faith in Toyota which had been slightly dented, has been fully restored.

Hi I picked up me new car yesterday. Love it but I have a problem with the insurance. Twice spoke to Esure (😡) about changing the insurance from old car to new car expressly saying it was the 2024 model. Told her the car as the reg wasn’t recognised and she game up with a load of different ones for the design trim eg 134 HP HSD114 HP HSD vit 99 hp TSS 134 hp I kept saying it wasn’t any of them it was 116hp. In the end she said contact dealer and hung up! Phoned back the next day as getting desperate for insurance. The person said she had the right one but a bit difficult to understand. When I got the paperwork it has Yaris Hybrid Design HSD 114 bhp 1490. Dealer says it’s 116bhp which is what I had been saying. Tried a few sites and they bring up 2020 onwards which I don’t think is right. I can now put in to change my car online at Esure with my registration number but it just brings up what is already on the insurance. I didn’t want to take the car out today in case it wasn’t insured so will have to get back in touch with Esure but I don’t think I will get very far. has anyone else had any problems with insuring the new model. sorry for the ramble and thanks for reading. Anyway on a happier note this is my new car.

should never have gone private! scamming the public !!

Thanks for all the suggestions. Yes, I will keep the NOCO ready but the biggest factor as far as I am concerned is that my wife has lost all faith in the car's reliability. That to me is the number one factor in choosing a brand and car. Whilst I am happy to rely on the NOCO, the Yaris Cross is my wife's car and I cannot expect her to use the NOCO. I am 80 and she will be very soon. A reliable car is an absolute must.

I wonder if some of the problem lies within the difference in HP to BHP ; 114 HP is equal to 115.58 BHP .

90% of problems are caused by people not formatting the SD card, format it and see how you get on. Weird things happen if you don't regularly format it. From the Nextbase Handbook

Give Fensport a ring or drop them an email https://www.fensport.co.uk/

That logic falls down very quickly when working with older cars. You could buy a car for a few hundred pounds and spend 10 grand on it - easily. You cannot look at it as a financial investment. It's an investment in yourself. Like a holiday. You'd easily spend £1300 on a holiday. It was the closest I could find, but you need to contact them to verify. Again, KYB, Koni and lowering springs like Eibach are perfectly fine alternatives. The difference is mainly that you cannot easily adjust ride height.

In other words, as long as the OEM battery fulfills the test procedure criteria, they won't pay for the replacement under warranty. If the OEM battery fails the test procedure (during the warranty period), they will install the replacement - probably identical to what you have. The cost will be covered by Toyota. If you'd like to have a battery of a different brand (eg. Yuasa or Varta of larger capacity) which has identical dimensions and all required features (like a vent) then you have to pay for it but installing it won't void the warranty as it meets the manufacturer requirements.

It may well do it if it's of decent calibre. The impact wrench makes it much easier when you're working on you own. Don't worry about the rust. You'll get the nut off one way or another. It's relatively straightforward as it's all chunky and strong mechanical bits (compared to working with rusty panel bolts, brake pipe unions etc. that shear off as soon as you look at them). If you are unlucky the drive shaft splines have seized in the hub, that is more challenging. Then you need a hand sledge hammer or a strong puller, or in worst case, a hydraulic press. But there's no point worrying about it, you deal with each thing as they come. Always allow for things to take longer than you think. Cars have a tendency to throw the most unexpected curveballs.

My MiL was rear ended. Only slight damage to rear bumper. The car was written off. A shunt can transfer shock loads much further forward than you might expect.

These will be a garage equipment job imo. I never had that badly corroded nuts and it was so difficult to undo my first bearings change and then 3 years later I couldn’t do it and let a mechanic I know to change them for me because of these. You will need a large breaker bar 70+cm with extension eventually, place a car jack under for additional support and you can use some heat gun to heat them up before try it plus a lots of wd 40 rust specialist spray.

Don’t buy it unless is 30-40% cheaper than non repaired similar spec car. The insurance issues if any is your smallest trouble. As mentioned ppl aren’t honest and often repaired cars had been way worse than what they described. Accident repaired cars only worth if you buy it yourself broken and fix it by yourself. The biggest problems with these are structural weaknesses and in event of accidents your life and the life of any passengers are at greater risks. Then the next big issue is premature corrosion, rust , paint bubbling, paint pealing and no warranty on any body parts , basically you are loosing 12 years corrosion warranty. And finally the safety and electronics, cars post 2016 are full of these, Yaris has so many safety systems that will be either off permanently or will not function correctly. And final thoughts, the prices of category cars are very similar to non category cars, just move on and keep looking and do your checks and tests because there are also plenty of accident repaired non recorded cars which are also a full stop. The regular forum members are well aware of people coming here and sharing a list of problems after they purchase cars like these. Good luck

I've just been notified by Bishops Stortford Toyota that the parts are in and the car will be ready next week which is fantastic...... I have to say the team at Steven Eagell Bishops Stortford have been amazing in getting the parts so quickly and giving me a lovely 23 Yaris on loan within 4 days of the car going in!

C, D, and N are classed as repairable. S is structural but can be repaired. I'd still avoid S unless I was convinced by repair evidence. Official details If buying a written off car you want someone who is upfront and honest about it and can show you photos of exactly what it was that was damaged and how it was repaired. Many times it is things that are expensive but completely fine to repair. Like a damaged door or body panel that can easily be replaced and brings the car completely back to normal again. Demand photos photos photos... and receipts.

Why not get a few insurance quotes and see if it's a price you're prepared to pay?

Yes, I’d never give anyone a lift whose carrying a chainsaw…

People lie. I'd really like to trust strangers, but experience says that's a really bad idea. Because a quick buck trumps being honest every day of the week. There are honest people out there, but the chances of any given advertiser being one is not worth the risk. Assume the worst - hope to be wrong.

I agree about the Yuasa battery (used them on many cars and simply no issues) I joined this forum to find out what issues i might have buying a new Corolla and apart from the battery issues,the Toyota app and now the RSA which won't switch off on 24 models i don't see many other issues. Just buy a battery...yes Toyota should have done better but spending 20/30k on a car what is another £100 for peace of mind.

Good point. They are staked into a groove of the driveshaft end. You can use a screwdriver to push it out. You are meant to replace the locking cap. Order one so you have a new to replace with.

Type your reg number into the motor insurance database, it will tell you if you are insured https://ownvehicle.askmid.com/

Thanks for the replies. Although I won't have a chance to do this before the car goes in tomorrow. The same camera has been in the Yaris for three years and I've never re-formated it, and it still works fine. I'll get a better idea when I get the car back and can try it. Thanks

Auto Hold will also illuminate the rear brake lights I suspect that we are now confusing two different functions: Automatic mode on the Parking brake - i.e. the mode where the Parking brake is applied automatically when the driver shifts into Park and released when the driver shifts from Park. The brake lights will not illuminate just because the Parking brake is on (but, of course, will if you also leave your foot on the brake pedal). The Brake Hold function which "keeps the brake applied when the shift lever is in a forward driving position or N with the system on and the brake pedal has been depressed to stop the vehicle. The system releases the brake when the accelerator pedal is depressed with the shift lever in the forward driving position to allow smooth start off". In this situation the brake lights are illuminated because the 'brake pedal remains depressed (even if only logically). It is entirely the driver's choice which of these modes he/she uses. Personally, I use automatic hold on the parking brake and never the brake hold function. If I am stationary for a short while I hold the car on the foot brake; if I am stationary for longer I shift into Park - that works for me and suits my driving style ...

+1 for Fensport - always helpful and can do the install and setup for you if you come to them.

Thank you, I thought it may well be. If anyone spots a nice 2014 - 2017 1.2 or 1.6 manual Excel, please feel free to send me the link, there doesn't seem to be that many about although, to be fair, I am not in a rush. Many thanks all again.

Money to burn huh...I negotiate the price of the car (tastefully) ,press the buttons on their coffee machine myself, pick up car myself ,would never ever tip a salesman., could tell you the price of every car, I've ever owned! This brightens up my life no end ! Jobs a good un !

Nah, ostrich mode works for me. Heart aint good enough to cope with that annoyance.

There's a conundrum in there. Are you buying it, or is he buying it? If he is buying it with limited funds then it might be a good chance for a decent car in his price bracket - if it can be proved good. If you are buying it or helping him with extra cash (which I did for my son not long ago), then it might be better to pay more to get a less 'complicated' car. (Something else to consider. Young drivers have high premiums because they are prone to hit things. (I wrote my first car off within a year or two.) It might not be serious but they may well collect bumps and scrapes, so getting something that is a bit worse for wear and thus cheaper may make sense.)

Thanks Tony, I am thinking of all those things, I have extra 1/2" breaker, a pipe, heat gun, wd specialist and some left over plusgas. I'll be soaking the trouble makers over several times, hopefully it won't be too much trouble. I also have a small 1/2" cordless impact wrench but I am not expecting that to break axle nut loose but for other bolts its ok.

Wow, they quoted May. I would be amazed if we got our cars then, happy if we do though! If there was a sweepstake I think I would bet for the back end of June

That is almost exactly the average that the memsahib gets in her X. That is verified by tank-to-tank calculations. The fuel figures from the car are, AFAICT, pretty accurate.

They seem to be opimistic on possibly all cars, deffinitly most cars pretty much. My 2014 Auris Hybris is about 1.5 to 2 mpg optimistic, my Gen 2 Prius was about 2 to 3, I had a Skoda Octavia Diesel, that was around 5 or 6 and a Honda Accord 2.0 petrol was only about 1 mpg optimistic

look on ebay or a local dealer. always do your checks

Or maybe they are not needed that much with the rear camera? Plus people often forgot to extend them when having passengers on the rear seats and they were more prone to the injury in case of the crash?

Got mine today (with Safety Pack option) 😆, so here's a few more pics... another dashboard scenario and one of the infotainment. Plus the Juniper Blue colour.... I really love this it looks so much better in real life! Car is brill 👌💖

I actually met my wife whilst she was hitchhiking, she told me she was a witch, and it was true, she put her hand on my knee and I turned into a lay-by

Don't get too hung up on the HP - As long as it matches the year and trim spec you're okay.

It could be because the wiring looms are manufactured in the same factory as camembert.

mk1 and mk2 Auto aygo's are MMT C1542 Vehicle Speed Signal Abnormal Decrease more than likely an EPS problem C1545 can you please confirm this is the correct code, as it has a few different meanings other than the generic OBD2 one in all honesty, it sounds like it needs a new clutch and clear the codes INF12215_GB.pdf

I just pick the closest one - There are slight differences between e.g. HP, BHP, PS etc. but everyone seems to have the bad habit of saying HP when they actually mean one of the others!

Yep, and although I hated the Peugeot 3008 hybrid4 GT 300 I had for nearly year before the R4P the driver display was superb. Tom Tom 3D built in showing the overview on the infotainment display and then a high Res large image of the zoomed in directions in the central part of the display, if you wanted to. And many other cool features. But the drive trained sucked, was unreliable, inefficient, and barely got 12 miles a charge in mild winter versus the 37 claimed. And then there were other problems. Like serious problems. Had nothing remotely on that scale from the R4P.

Great you've got your new car now... looks the bizz and enjoy! There was a bug issue on insurance on another thread here. Hopefully I have linked to it OK here... It was mainly to with completely new set up at the very beginning and Toyota seemingly slow to update new model to insurers. That particular bit should all be sorted now so I think it may just be the '3 day rule' for registration info to filter through to all systems. When it does it should all be 'as registered' with correct specs etc. It may well be quicker. I didn't have a problem switching over with Direct Line but I will go back now and check paperwork! (I am pretty sure it was done on reg number though). Hope you get sorted soon... 🙏

You may need to install firmware updates on the Cam.

Hi Graham, the best person for this question would be @flash22 Hope this helps.

Thanks for the suggestions. I can stretch the budget a few £100 over a grand but don't want to go too far as the car itself was only £3500. I've seen them BC coilovers before but not specifically for a ZZE121 chassis - Are the ones you linked definitely compatible with my chassis?

Cat S is structural damaged, personally wouldn't risk this category. While cat N is non structural, if the price is good then it can be ok.

Last time I picked up a hitchhiker, they were on their way to visit Cadbury's World. A chocolate fanatic, he enthused about all types of chocolate, but especially Mars chocolate. Got fed up of hearing about the hitchhiker's guide to Galaxy .....

I have the same information as Mr Blibby from our dealer... the dealers were sent a powerpoint (or similar) presentation with some details of the specs, colours etc. There have been copies of parts of this presentation posted in this thread. Your dealer should have had this from Toyota.

It's very doubtful that you would notice any difference in handling. Sidewall height: 205/55 = 4.4" 215/55 = 4.7" So, you would gain only three tenths of one inch by fitting the 215/55. If you want a more comfortable ride, fitting a 15" wheel would give you a higher sidewall, but if you want "...improved handling/cornering..." i.e. less tyre roll, sharper cornering, then you should be looking at fitting a 17" tyre and wheel package which would give you a lower sidewall, but you would probably find the ride quality more harsh. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Also take a look at what non-coilover options there are. KYB do firmer damper versions of the OEM dampers that you can combine with shorter springs. We used this on the Yaris Tsport where we actually kept running the OEM springs.